wb416
Contributor
I was mistaken for describing the hack squat --I think I meant the front squat instead . . .I just can't use proper front squat mechanics with the "tip & cradle" method on big steel doubles.
The "tip & cradle" lift technique for my double 104's produces too much static torque on my whole back: It's too heavily awkward & oblong and I cannot bring the mass close enough to my body's center-of-mass/center-of-gravity to solely utilize the driving power of my legs to stand up (I'm only 5'-6"/160lbs; 170cm/70kg). My Ford Explorer has a relatively high liftover height for my stature, so my best technique to is to hang clean/hang pull the load, left & right hands gripping the tank valves with the twinset upright, power it up & over the bumper and into the cargo area --keeping my head up; back straight; quarter eagle football stance; lift and accelerate with the quads/gluts ("shoot your hips up & out" as my strength coach at UCLA used to say) and finally explode up and over using the calves & trapezius muscle shrug of your shoulders.
Your post makes a good point... different techniques for lifting to a given height might be necessary for different body types and heights.
My other technique may not prove so favorable either. I use this one to get tanks off the floor and into the vehicle. I use more of the "Front Squat"-like or an Oly Lift position, with my knees/legs angled around the tanks. I squat down until the top of the tank valves is close to my chest, then grab the tank valves (like you suggest above). My arms are in almost a T-Rex type position with the elbow off to the side. Then I stand up. This requires "static" upper body strength just to hold the tanks against my body, but all the lifting is with my legs. When I stand to full extension, if the bottom of the tanks don't reach the necessary liftover height, I use my knee/quad from one leg to lift under the tanks and lever them up into position.