The great Suunto data cable thread (incl DIY)

[CIBDiving]

V 2.3.0
I tryed right click on comp icon but no responce. did you mean left click?
I tryed that and it still didnt find device.
I am using a USB-serial adaptor if it makes any diffrence.

You don't right click the Icon on the header line ( the one that automaticly starts the connection) You need to right click the line in the window that names your computer.
What this means is, if you didn't have a computer download Prior to V2.3 then you can't download with the old style connection!!

 

[Surly]

Does Suunto make an D9/Cobra adapter for the D9 cable? The D9 cable has a different endpin setup than my Cobra, and I'd rather not buy another adapter.

Suunto has been unresponsive to my email. I'm open to DIY solutions as well.

 

[Packhorse]

Got it to work! right click where the comp icon should have been and if found it. Thanks Jai Bar!!

 

[pfriedel]

Is anyone still making the DIY interface, either in kit form or in built assemblies that just need the connector added? I know there used to be a bunch on eBay, but I gather that those were cracked down on, and I haven't been seeing them lately. I don't mind soldering if someone has parts packs stored away - I just don't think I could get the parts for less than the OEM model at the local radio shack. PM me if you have something to sell. Thanks!

 

[Packhorse]

They are cheap as chips to make. I made 3 for less than $30 NZ. But that does not include the plugs. my buddy is supposed to be making them.

 

[pfriedel]

They are cheap as chips to make. I made 3 for less than $30 NZ. But that does not include the plugs. my buddy is supposed to be making them.

Yeah, I just haven't seen a build order that defines the tolerances necessary for the parts so I know if I can nick parts from my existing kit or not - i.e. does it just need to be _a_ NPN transistor that can handle 9vdc? Or is it a specific NPN? Are the diodes just for polarity protection, or does Roli's circuit use the breakdown voltage to do something? Etc etc etc. I'm comfy with a soldering iron, but less so making assumptions about parts that I can't find an exact match for in my kit, and would end up running to two-thirds/one half the cost of the OEM serial buying the 5-pc "bulk" kits from Radio Shack for the small handful of parts needed. (In comparison, I remember seeing a HK-built surface mount serial unit on ebay a while back for $10. I'd be gangbusters for that, even with shipping.)

I suppose I could look for the diagnostics that I saw once and wing it a bit to see if I can even build it up and get appropriate-looking signals out of it, but I'd hate to smoke my Vyper. But hey, if someone else has spares left and wants to part with 'em, I'd be willing to talk.

 

[Packhorse]

The tranisistors are general purpose. I had to buy resisitors in 5 packs. and the diodes had to be in 100 packs (except for the zenor). The most expencive parts by far were the serial plug. I just used a general purpose PCB and redsigned the layout.
If you have a spare serial plug I bet you could make the unit for less than $5us. But if you can find one for $10 then go for it.

 

[ShoalDiverSA]

A great replacement for the serial plug is the plug and cable from an old serial mouse. Generally IT departments have them lying around in a dingy corner somewhere. The cable is flexible and better quality than most of the off-the-shelf cables from an electronics store. It also saves you the heartache of soldering the wires to the plug. Just ring out each wire/pin combo with a continuity tester.

Cheers,

Andrew

 

[pfriedel]

Yeah, I've been scraping together parts for the past day or two - I'm figuring on making some big honkin' solder pads on a floppy drive power connector for the plug. I found the guy in Hong Kong who sells d-shell sized surface mount serial adaptors for about the same price I'd pay from Digi-Key for the parts, so I should be set to roll. Thanks for all the help!

 

[Packhorse]

by the way whats up with your mask on your forehead? Do you find this disstressing? LOL