check your circuit again if you are sure you're maintaining constant, reliable connection between interface and dive computer. You can easily put something backwards in the circuit and the software will test it out ok. If you can, take a picture of the circuit and post it. Also, you could have your leads to your dive computer hooked up backwards. It's worth a try flopping them.
The great Suunto data cable thread (incl DIY)
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Air_Miser
Guest
Hi Jamie,
I've checked and all SEEMS fine, but who knows- I haven't tried anything like this in 15 years.
Pics of the circuit top & bottom attached, you should get a chuckle out of these....
Cheers,
Matt.
I've checked and all SEEMS fine, but who knows- I haven't tried anything like this in 15 years.
Pics of the circuit top & bottom attached, you should get a chuckle out of these....
Cheers,
Matt.
jamiei:
ShoalDiverSA
Contributor
Hi Matt,
I would suggest that you consider manufacturing the circuit on veroboard. It is very difficult to keep track of wiring errors on the circuit which you posted.
I see that the wire gauge that you used is quite heavy (ripcord?). If you are sure that everything is correctly wired, I would suspect overheating as a possible cause of circuit malfunction. You need to work with a low wattage soldering iron in order to ensure that you do not overheat any of the components. From what I can see of the soldered ends of the components, there seems to be a generous glob of solder - this usually requires an excessive amount of time to deposit on the joint.
Again, I must recommend veroboard . It is a much better medium for this type of project and is much easier to fault-find. Somewhere in the dark recesses of my mind, I seem to recall seeing plans for a veroboard layout of the circuit somewhere on the Net. I will have to trawl about for it.
Of course, a PCB of the specific circuit is first prize, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do
Cheers,
Andrew
I would suggest that you consider manufacturing the circuit on veroboard. It is very difficult to keep track of wiring errors on the circuit which you posted.
I see that the wire gauge that you used is quite heavy (ripcord?). If you are sure that everything is correctly wired, I would suspect overheating as a possible cause of circuit malfunction. You need to work with a low wattage soldering iron in order to ensure that you do not overheat any of the components. From what I can see of the soldered ends of the components, there seems to be a generous glob of solder - this usually requires an excessive amount of time to deposit on the joint.
Again, I must recommend veroboard . It is a much better medium for this type of project and is much easier to fault-find. Somewhere in the dark recesses of my mind, I seem to recall seeing plans for a veroboard layout of the circuit somewhere on the Net. I will have to trawl about for it.
Of course, a PCB of the specific circuit is first prize, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do
Cheers,
Andrew
Air_Miser
Guest
thanks Andrew, all good points. As you can tell, I'm quite new to this! I've got a dive buddy here who has a Vyper as well, and some skills in this department, I was talking to him this am, we'll try a fresh start and see what happens!
Matt.
Matt.
ShoalDiverSA:Hi Matt,
I would suggest that you consider manufacturing the circuit on veroboard. It is very difficult to keep track of wiring errors on the circuit which you posted.
I see that the wire gauge that you used is quite heavy (ripcord?). If you are sure that everything is correctly wired, I would suspect overheating as a possible cause of circuit malfunction. You need to work with a low wattage soldering iron in order to ensure that you do not overheat any of the components. From what I can see of the soldered ends of the components, there seems to be a generous glob of solder - this usually requires an excessive amount of time to deposit on the joint.
Again, I must recommend veroboard . It is a much better medium for this type of project and is much easier to fault-find. Somewhere in the dark recesses of my mind, I seem to recall seeing plans for a veroboard layout of the circuit somewhere on the Net. I will have to trawl about for it.
Of course, a PCB of the specific circuit is first prize, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do
Cheers,
Andrew
makinbubbles
Contributor
FLL Diver:
I was considering building one, but my soldering iron is still lost from my last move. I bought one from Jamie, works great with my skeeter
Now I'm playing around with logging everything to a database for web display. Bob, who sometimes gets too geeky for his own good.
I tried building one, two times over, from the plans that are linked earlier in this thread. I could never get the dang thing to work even though it was being detected. After a couple of attempts, I was approaching the cost that Jamie is currently selling them for. He produces a quality product and it works like a champ.
been pretty busy, but all orders up until the last couple weeks have been shipped so I'm wondering about your order. shoot an email to jamie@athenshomesolutions.com with your name, address and order date and we'll see whats up with it.
here's a couple pics of the pcb I have made for me. I paid a hefty setup fee to have it produced, but its really worth it compared to what most of us can do with with a simple predrilled board from radio shack that costs $3 and you end up with a mess.
I can't really decifer all your tracks, but my bet is that something is definately backwards on your circuit or shorted. Don't feel bad though... my first effort looked somewhat like that. Thats exactly why I started making them for people. You would be surprised at the number of people that buy from me after failed attempts at making their own (and wasted money). I would bet the average person that tries to make these ends up spending much more than the bottom dollar price you often see quoted on this and other boards and also spend at least 2-3 times as long making it as those that buy my parts kit and may end up with an interface that fails and leads to more work and effort. Go at it alone by all means (I did), but please know what you're getting into (I like so many others didn't). I made the first few just to recoupe the money I spent building one for myself... something along the lines of $60 with the soldering iron and a few hours of my time troubleshooting my mistakes.
I can't really decifer all your tracks, but my bet is that something is definately backwards on your circuit or shorted. Don't feel bad though... my first effort looked somewhat like that. Thats exactly why I started making them for people. You would be surprised at the number of people that buy from me after failed attempts at making their own (and wasted money). I would bet the average person that tries to make these ends up spending much more than the bottom dollar price you often see quoted on this and other boards and also spend at least 2-3 times as long making it as those that buy my parts kit and may end up with an interface that fails and leads to more work and effort. Go at it alone by all means (I did), but please know what you're getting into (I like so many others didn't). I made the first few just to recoupe the money I spent building one for myself... something along the lines of $60 with the soldering iron and a few hours of my time troubleshooting my mistakes.
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