The great Suunto data cable thread (incl DIY)

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I have a question for you Jamie, or anyone else who have build the DIY PC-interface. I have just solderd the stuff together, and the PC "finds" the interface when I use the suunto-programm. But I am not able to read any data from the computer (Vyper). I have not done a good plug, but try to use 2 cords and hold them to place by hand. I have tried to change the timeout period to 50, but it still does not work, just take a bit more time before it times out. I get the exact same result when not connecting the computer, as I get when its connected.

Can the interface be broken (something solderd to the wrong place, or destroyed by heat), and still be found by the computer? When people have problem connecting, do they connect for a while, but do not get the whole profile over before it times out, or does it not work at all (like it does for me)? Any help would be appriciated.

/Bjorn
 
Just because it finds it doesn't mean that the circuit is ok in some cases. Some transistors will allow the software to find it, but the pins are not standard so it won't transfer. First of all, get you some good contacts... the connection is fairly delicate so trying to hold some wires in place won't work regardless. Also, you need to do a thorough check of the circuit to make sure no tracks or joints are soldered together (use a magnifying glass if possible). I've got one circuit sitting beside me now that, even after building hundreds of them, I can't figure out what its problem is. If all the components are correct and installed correctly, its usually just a broken wire or a short somewhere. In the case of this one I have, its most likely a bad component... but not worth spending all the time to troubleshoot it that much.
Hopefully you're lucky and its just the fact that you don't have any good, solid connection. Also, the delay setting is more for helping the pc to find the interface than transferring data. If you can post/email a picture of both sides of the circuit, I could help out more.
 
Hi Bjorn,

I have built two interfaces from Roli's plans (one for a Stinger and one for my Cobra) and I have also built an interface for a Solution Nitrox. As far as I know, the Interface test carried out by SDM is a simple loopback check.

In other words, if SDM "sees" an interface on your COM port, it is only seeing a connection between pins 2 and 3. The same test can be simulated by soldering a wire between pins 2 and 3 on a DB9 plug and running the interface test. My reference for this info:

http://www.dcordes.freeuk.com/suunto.htm

So, your board could have one of a variety of problems.

My first check would be as Jamie suggested - look for soldering problems. Bridged tracks or dry joints (solder not connecting the pin and the track) are common construction problems.

My second check would be the polarity of the diodes and then thirdly, the transistors.

If all your polarities are correct, and your soldering is up to scratch, then your method of connecting to the pins on your dive computer might be suspect. You should not be holding the pins while the communication is underway, but rather holding the interface in place (unless you have a better method of holding it there :D ).

If all of these checks are clear, then I would suspect faulty components - probably soldering-induced failures.

BTW, are you building Roli's interface from the plans, or did you purchase the kit from Jamie? (Trying to work out if you could have PC board problems)

Handy hint for the Vyper/Cobra/Mosquito: The pins on the back of the computers are approximately 5mm apart (if memory serves). A connector for these pins can be made from a modified Phoenix Contact PC Board 5.08mm connector (RS Components Stock Number 189-6010). Cut the connections out of the connector and glue your connections in place (preferably sprung pins of the type Jamie sells or check out RS Components item 261-5092). Alternately, you should be able to press your contacts into the shell as-is without removing the original contacts - haven't tried it though. You may need to remove a *tiny* bit of plastic from the shell to make it fit.

Good luck!

Andrew
 
ScoobyDave,

I just read your post, and I think you should change your nick to ScoobyBrave !

Meanwhile, I was doing some playing and actually got the Vyper to handshake with the computer with some simple connections, and a simple terminal program.

I would strongly recommend that you don't connect your dive computer to your PC without a correctly constructed and working interface. The voltages on the serial port swing between +12 and -12V (depends on your PC). These voltage levels may be enough to release the smoke from the delicate components in your 'puter. :boom: I assume that your one is still working...

Go with your gut feel and get hold of Jamie. You know it's the right thing to do.:eek:ut:

Cheers,

Andrew
 
It wasn't as brave as you suspect. There was ample caution taken and voltage isolation in place. So no, I didn't use the car's battery jumper cables for the connections.
 
ScoobyDave once bubbled...
So no, I didn't use the car's battery jumper cables for the connections.

LOL :giggle:

Now why didn't I think of that idea? I could have saved myself the effort of building an interface. No, wait, I don't HAVE jumper cables!:D

Cheers,

Andrew
 
...that's because they take a special-sized jumper cable. I think they're metric cables, if I recall, that must be carefully tightened to 22ft-lbs. The work is certainly beyond the capabilities of mere mortals and must be done by authorized technicians.
 
Thanks everyone for the reponses. I have not yet got it to work. I'm using a veroboard design, from a link on Rolis page (different computer now, so I dont have the link here, but the description was in german). Since it uses veroboard, I would guess its very hard not to have the soldering connect the components, and I have checked to see if any lead connects two lines, and it doesnt. About the diods, there is a line on the component, does that represent the arrow on the diagram? If not, then I guess all my diods are turned the wrong way.

I havent done any soldering in 10 years, so it might be possible that I have burned any of the components. I will have to try to find another 9V battery, so I can do the test described by Roli. I will try to find the stuff for the plugg, turns out RS have a store in Sweden, so I can get the stuff from there! I'll keep you posted on how it turns out.
 
The line on the diode represents the line at the tip of the arrow.

I hope this clarifies it for you.

Check the orientation of your transistors as well. This is a common cause of problems.

Cheers,

Andrew
 

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