Question Should you overfill lp tanks without a + stamp?

Should you overfill lp tanks without a + stamp?

  • Pump Em Up!

    Votes: 48 64.0%
  • Slightly Pumped (>3k)

    Votes: 19 25.3%
  • Never over working pressure!

    Votes: 7 9.3%
  • Pay for another hydro to get the + stamp

    Votes: 1 1.3%

  • Total voters
    75

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

I voted for "slightly pumped"...... As for the post above about someone pumping to 3800.......I'd say that's his or her business as long as they have their own compressor, live all alone in the woods, don't have a dog, etc......and never take that tank anywhere near another person unless that person knows about it and is cool with it.

Just curious....... why is overfilling a tank called a "cave fill"?
It's sometimes called a "cave fill" because it's not uncommon in FL cave country for dive shops to fill LP tanks that high. No need to have your own compressor, live alone in the woods, be dogless, etc. Just visit a fill station in N. Florida.
 
One thing to note is why a tank doesn't receive its + stamp. If the REE value is not stamped on the crown then it is actually a decent amount of work for the hydrostatic tested to go and find out what the REE value is. If you don't specifically ask to have the + put on it, most of them won't put the + on it because it is extra work, if it's on a tank where finding the REE value is exceedingly difficult especially if they don't have the book from when the tank was made then it is possible that it doesn't get a + stamp because they don't know what the pass standard is to give it the + rating. This is all very different than it no longer passes the limits to receive the + stamp.

I will say that the vast majority of the time the + ratings are not given because the tester is too lazy to find the REE and/or doesn't have access to it.
 
Most of the time if they don't have a + it's because the hydro shop didn't look up the number or didn't care about doing the math. Heck multiple people have had galvanized tanks fail because they were testes wrong...

3600psi all day.
 
3300 - 3600 all day long. Just depends on what dive I'm doing.


The plus rating is only good for 240 psi though? My hydro place did not give me the +, but the papers that I got back clearly show that it could have gotten it. I just didn't ask, and they didn't do.

I just can't imagine a tank would physically pass for 2400psi but fail for 2640?
As others stated, they just might not test for the +. I always ask for it.

But if it didn’t earn it, somethin is suspect with that tank. Sus enough that 3600psi shouldn’t go in it.
 
As others stated, they just might not test for the +. I always ask for it.

But if it didn’t earn it, somethin is suspect with that tank. Sus enough that 3600psi shouldn’t go in it.
I believe that the regular hydro test is enough to prove whether it can / can't get the +, it's just a matter of the tank monkey putting the stamp on there. (I don't remember what the requirements were, I just know that my hydro exceeded those when I looked them up).

If only there was a workaround:wink: (I think $8.50 on ebay... not sure if 240psi is worth $8.50 though)
1677266142456.png
 
my lp's get filled to around 2800 often and some of the tank boys give me trouble. Every once in a while I pick them up and they put 3900 in, thinking they are hp tanks, I guess. So far so good, I just wish I could get a consistent 3000 or so, in them, but they sometimes act like I requested they commit suicide. Did have a burst disk go on the way home one day and had to turn around and get it fixed.. they must have REALLY overfilled that one.
 
Please excuse my ignorance, but is overfilling just a thing on steel cylinders? or do folks do this with aluminium as well? I am asking because I recently purchased an AL80 and while living overseas I only had steel cylinders and the common practice at the club was to slightly overfill them to between 230-240 bar knowing that when they cooled the pressure would drop to approx 200-210bar. I am just wondering what the best practice is for an aluminium cylinder and if overfilling should be avoided?

-Z
 

Back
Top Bottom