Sewing flat nylon webbing at home

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

I have sewn some heavy stuff together making my own Tact gear because I did not like what Blackhawke and 5.11 were selling.

I agree, Blackhawk stuff isn't that good. 5.11 has some decent clothes for the range. There's also Tactical Tailor, they make some pretty useful stuff. Thanks for the advice.
 
There are two types of 2" webbing. One is harder because it is saturated w/resin to make it stiff. Conventional household machine even w/thick needle and even machine oil spray will fuzz the thread at the needle, most probably, mine did this. So for the small thing I rather do it manually. Walmart has a needle kit that has 6 needles for all the heavy duty hand sewing - sail, canvas, etc. ask the lady in the department. Also get a thimble. The whole square takes 10 minutes maximum to complete.

Special machines for this kinda job cost $700 refurbished on eBay.

Never seen brass rivets. Where would you get it? However stainless steel are available in HD and Lowes.

For the DIY sheath I actually preferred rivets because knife cuts the thread, even if mine is a blunt tip.
 
Conventional household machine even w/thick needle and even machine oil spray will fuzz the thread at the needle, .... .

The needle on the awl has a groove on one side for the thread, so there is no friction against the material. I don't know if any of the heavy duty hand sewing needles have this feature.

For the DIY sheath I actually preferred rivets because knife cuts the thread, even if mine is a blunt tip

I was thinking of riveting the top corners, but I didn't like the rivets I had handy. So far there has been no problem with the blade getting near the thread, but that's something I'm keeping an eye on.
 
I have sewn a number of things with my sewing awl. Some of the material BCs are made of is tough to punch through so I will pre-punch the material with a cobblers awl.

As far as finding better quality rivets, I go to a saddle maker or a store that sells tack supplies.

When sewing webbing, I glue the pieces together with contact cement before I sew them.
 
Gluing them together...

That's brilliant! In other words, why didn't I think of that?

Keeping them aligned while sewing is half the battle. Gluing would eliminate half the difficulty!

Do you suppose hot melt would work as well as contact cement?

D
 
I must be spoiled. I live near a number of sailmakers and they have machines that will just about sew through plywood...I've seen them go through 6 layers of Kevlar as if it were silk. It takes them but a minute to sew webbing and they use a nylon thread that is incredibly strong.
 
Gluing would eliminate half the difficulty!
Yeah, but it will also gum up your needle if you try to sew through the section with glue. I'd actually just recommend a couple of staples from a heavy duty stapler You don't need much, to be honest, once you get a couple of stitches in.
 
I would recommend NOT using a light duty sewing machine for resin reinforced (weightbelt) type webbing.

Over loading any sewing machine is poor practice. Deflection of the needle can damage the "hook" and replacing a hook is expensive and a PITA.

Thread size, required tension, etc. is also a limiting factor.

Sewing awl, or a trip the local sailmaker or shoe repair will provide a much better result, and less marital discord than maxing out a homeowners type sewing machine.

Rivets? I'd suggest copper "Harness Rivets"

Tobin
 

Back
Top Bottom