- Messages
- 17,617
- Reaction score
- 9,880
- Location
- Somewhere between here and there
- # of dives
- 2500 - 4999
Scubapro G250 poppet assemby
- Thread starter divezonescuba
- Start date
Please register or login
Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.
Benefits of registering include
- Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
- A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
- You can make this box go away
- Messages
- 17,617
- Reaction score
- 9,880
- Location
- Somewhere between here and there
- # of dives
- 2500 - 4999
To summarize:
It seems the -250-141 lever always works on a converted 109 with S-wing poppet and the -109-105 sometimes works.
It seems the -109-105 lever always works on a converted G250 with S-wing poppet and the -250-141 lever sometimes works.
A G260 lever will work in an S-wing converted G250 but results in a slight drop in performance with a higher cracking effort, initially in the 1.3" range but after some playing I managed to get it a tad lower.
Well that's my experience and reading through the various lever threads others report similarly.
Weird.
It seems the -250-141 lever always works on a converted 109 with S-wing poppet and the -109-105 sometimes works.
It seems the -109-105 lever always works on a converted G250 with S-wing poppet and the -250-141 lever sometimes works.
A G260 lever will work in an S-wing converted G250 but results in a slight drop in performance with a higher cracking effort, initially in the 1.3" range but after some playing I managed to get it a tad lower.
Well that's my experience and reading through the various lever threads others report similarly.
Weird.
Last edited:
I'd appreciate PDF's of those service bulletins for the archives if anyone has them available. Vintagedoublehose@gmail.com
Apologies for the snips Rob, I hope not to take anything out of context.
I am interested in knowing what the note associated with the asterisk next to the interchangeable information indicates. In aviation, we many of examples of "one way interchangeable" meaning that a new part: "may replace, but not be replaced by" the older part.
I have not had any issues so far using the "curly feet" levers in 109/BA/G250ies when used with the s-wing or Duro poppets. I have not modified them in any way.
I am interested in knowing what the note associated with the asterisk next to the interchangeable information indicates. In aviation, we many of examples of "one way interchangeable" meaning that a new part: "may replace, but not be replaced by" the older part.
I have not had any issues so far using the "curly feet" levers in 109/BA/G250ies when used with the s-wing or Duro poppets. I have not modified them in any way.
Last edited:
I'll upload the whole bulletin next time I'm at a suitable computer. For now, the asterisk'ed entry is:
"Although many parts are NOT interchangeable, it may be possible to exchange several components in order to use the newer parts. For example, the old poppet can be used in the new configuration if the lever is also exchanged. Consult with SCUBAPRO Technical Services for questions regarding compatibility of components."
This says to me that the curly foot lever was designed for that first version of the S-wing poppet for that barrel housing.
I'm not sure I'd agree with you, couv, about applying the same logic to the 109/156. The barrel is a bit narrower, and I've commented about slop above due to the wider construction of this curly lever.
Then, we have the lever height issue. So let's think about that:
Unlike the S600 or G260, there is no fine-tuning adjustment screw inside the adjustment knob. Lever height at minimum tension on the adjustment spring in front of the knob therefore starts with the angle made by the lever feet. As we saw above, the curly lever gives us an initial height significantly greater than the old lever. So in order not to have freeflow, we need to drop the lever by screwing in the orifice. That tensions the adjustment spring, and HAS to yield a higher cracking effort than if you bent the feet to yield the proper lever height at minimum spring tension and just enough orifice screw-in to seal the orifice to the LP seat. That's the beauty of the G260 - that you can keep minimum spring tension by backing out the fine-tuning adjustment screw at any given adjustment knob position.
So I guess I'm a little skeptical of buddha's and your comment above about getting good performance and low cracking effort without bending the feet of the curly lever. How'dja do that?
halocline
Contributor
The curly feet lever has always worked for me as well. I guess it does come up at a slightly higher angle, but if I remember, it's shorter and the fingers are at a different angle. The only problems I've ever had with levers are on older 109s being converted to the s wing poppet.
However, I have had tuning issues with older springs. At this point, I would just replace the spring on any 109 or G250 with an unknown history. Those springs definitely wear out, and I'm sure they're inconsistent to begin with. DA once posted about how SP went through lots of them and hand-picked the ones for G250s and S600s, leaving the others for use in the R190 etc.
However, I have had tuning issues with older springs. At this point, I would just replace the spring on any 109 or G250 with an unknown history. Those springs definitely wear out, and I'm sure they're inconsistent to begin with. DA once posted about how SP went through lots of them and hand-picked the ones for G250s and S600s, leaving the others for use in the R190 etc.
- Messages
- 17,617
- Reaction score
- 9,880
- Location
- Somewhere between here and there
- # of dives
- 2500 - 4999
FTR I'm using curly feet levers (141) on two 156s I have, and dive, with the S-wing poppets both crack around .9" possibly a tad lower. I did not bend the feet.
After discovering the higher cracking using G260 levers on my S-wing G250s I went back to the small square lever (105) and on the three I changed all crack around .9", as they should I guess.
I do recall having some tuning issues using the curly feet levers (141) on at least some of my S-wing G250s.
It's melting my brain.
After discovering the higher cracking using G260 levers on my S-wing G250s I went back to the small square lever (105) and on the three I changed all crack around .9", as they should I guess.
I do recall having some tuning issues using the curly feet levers (141) on at least some of my S-wing G250s.
It's melting my brain.
Last edited:
Rob, just to make sure we are on the same page. The lever I'm referring to is the one in the middle shown in your pictures. I've not (but will some time) experimented with the 555 lever (on the right.) Of course, the lever on the left is the standard 109/BA/G250 lever.
My thinking is this: with the new S-wing poppet, a new lever was designed. The lever must interface with the poppet correctly regardless of the barrel it's in. Now, lever height may be a separate issue, but that should be simple enough to check. I'll try to take some measurement and pictures when I have a chance (and not under the influence of Cabernet.)
@NotSure......thanks. That's the jewel. If you have any info on that poppet, please share.
Similar threads
