Converting HOG Regulator From Din to Yoke

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cruisediver69

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I have a couple of D1 series Hog regulators. I would like to convert one of them over from DIN to yoke without using the adapter. I don't like the extra weight and how far out the adapter pushes the regulator. Any suggestions on where I might be able to pick up parts to do this conversion?
 
HOG was supposed to be releasing a change over kit by now. Check with a manufacturers supplier to see if they are available yet. We need one too.

Jim Lapenta, DRIS, etc should be able to help.
 
I haven't tried it, but if you can't source an official Edge yoke, I wouldn't be surprised if a yoke from an Apeks, Dive Rite or Hollis would fit.
 
HOG was supposed to be releasing a change over kit by now. Check with a manufacturers supplier to see if they are available yet. We need one too.

Jim Lapenta, DRIS, etc should be able to help.

I had followed that thread with interest but my interpretation of what Chris said was he wasn't planning on releasing a conversion kit for the Hog Regs. Rather he was planning on selling a din to yoke converter like you can already buy at lots of places. Hopefully I just misunderstood. I bought my Regs from DRIS so I will drop them a quick email.

---------- Post Merged at 05:06 PM ---------- Previous Post was at 04:51 PM ----------

I haven't tried it, but if you can't source an official Edge yoke, I wouldn't be surprised if a yoke from an Apeks, Dive Rite or Hollis would fit.

Interesting thought! I was under the assumption that there were more parts that would need to be switched out.
 
It's the yoke nut that has to fit....thread, depth and sealing surface....the actual yoke doesn't really matter.
 
It's the yoke nut that has to fit....thread, depth and sealing surface....the actual yoke doesn't really matter.

From what I can see there isn't really anything for the yoke nut to screw on to. I suspect that the part labeled #6 (which is currently smooth) would need to be threaded.

D1 Partial.jpg
 
Bad diagram.......6 is threaded and the yoke nut would go in its place.

On my D1 reg, 6 is completely smooth on the outside but threaded on the inside. 5 is threaded on the outside but smooth on the inside and is what screws into the tank valve. 2 screws into 6 to hold 5 onto the regulator but still allowing it to rotate when you screw it into the regulator. The schematic accurately reflects my version of the D1.
 
The bottom part of 6 is threaded......otherwise there would be nothing attaching it to the 1st stage.
You need to remove 6 with an allen wrench and you will see the threads.
7 is the o ring that seals the DIN fitting or yoke nut to the 1st stage.
 
The bottom part of 6 is threaded......otherwise there would be nothing attaching it to the 1st stage.
You need to remove 6 with an allen wrench and you will see the threads.
7 is the o ring that seals the DIN fitting or yoke nut to the 1st stage.

Makes sense but what are you suggesting that I screw the yoke nut to? The upper part of 6 is smooth and the lower part screws into the base of the regulator. Or are you saying that the yoke nut actually screws into the base of the regulator in place of 6?
 

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