Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Because you have got a DIN 300 bar kit on a 200 bar combo DIN/yoke valve.
Scubapro also sells, for a few bucks (49), the DIN 200 bar kit, which has a shorter screw, entering completely in the valve instead of leaving two threads out.
With the DIN 200 bar kit, your reg would end in the same distance as with the yoke mount, or with the 300 bar kit fully screwed in a 300 bar valve.
Furthermore, when using the DIN to Yoke adaptor, the 200 bar DIN kit would limit the extra space occupied, keeping the reg more far from your head, hence possibly making the adaptor a viable option.
If you don't plan to use 300 bar valves, a 200 bar DIN kit would be preferable to your current 300 bar DIN kit.

Here the 200 bar kit:

Here the 300 bar kit:
I have don’t have ScubaPro regs - was just commenting based on the DIN vs yoke pics.

Thanks for that info on 200 vs 300 bar DIN thread depth - makes sense.
 
Are you factoring in being able to reach the valve? I’m still trying to find the balance between headspace and being able to reach the valve. I’m moving the tank up a little higher each dive and hopefully I’ll reach the valve before my headspace is too seriously compromised.
Edit: My age-related lack of flexibility doesn’t help.
Putting the tank up higher actually makes it worse. You want the tank valve in back of your neck. Also, try to reach back with your bicep and forearm close to your head. If you reach back with elbow open and to the right it costs you inches.
 
Putting the tank up higher actually makes it worse.
I’m trying to understand how that would make it worse. Is it because of the distance the valve sits off your back makes the angle worse as you move the tank up?
 
I’m trying to understand how that would make it worse. Is it because of the distance the valve sits off your back makes the angle worse as you move the tank up?
Yeah, kind of counter intuitive. Go into the doorway of your kitchen or somewhere and put your back/spine flat against the frame. In a natural posture your neck head will be a bit away from the wall. The valve would be there too. Now, reach back and touch where the top of your spine is touching the wall. If the valve was right above that point in back of your neck, it is in a very easy location to turn. Give it a shot.
 
you can turn the tank around 180 degrees and have the reg on the outside if you really really need more head room
you may need to move the hoses to different ports but as you have a mk25 you can simply spin the turret round
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

Back
Top Bottom