DIN, Yoke, and Head Space

[rootshell73]

I know the DIN vs Yoke conversation is something that has already been beat to death on this forum. I’m not looking to start another conversation on which is better. I am however interested in gathering some empirical data regarding how far the regulator sticks out from the tank, and thus how likely it is to hit one’s head on it.

I purchased DIN regulators a while back, and my tanks have pro valves, so any local dividing is a direct DIN connection. When traveling however, I find that I have to use a DIN to Yoke adapter more often than not. This adds about another inch to the regulator, and definitely limits head movement. For this reason, I was considering getting a Yoke first stage for travel.

Before doing so, I was curious to get some measurements to see the difference in head space and if it’s actually worth the investment. Below I have included two images measuring my first stage regulator from the front of the tank valve, to the opposite side of the regulator. The first image is a DIN connection, and the second is using the yoke adapter (with the yoke insert for the valve). I was hoping someone with a yoke first stage (preferably an MK25 Evo for consistency) would be able to measure the same distance for their yoke regulator. I am curious to see how it compares to my measurements with regards to head space.

 

[halocline]

If this is for a MK25, I can sell you a yoke kit, because not that long ago I bought a MK25 used and converted it to DIN because I use it cave diving. In terms of the measurement, the 1st stage with yoke would be about the same distance from the tank as with DIN. It’s the adapter that makes it stick out.

Buying a yoke does mean that you’d have to remove the DIN retainer and replace it with the yoke, and that requires a specialized socket and a torque wrench. It’s also not something you’d want to do often, like every week. But it would be fine once or twice a year. You can send me a PM if you’re interested in going that route. It’s a lot cheaper than buying another 1st stage.

Out of curiosity, it looks like your regulator is on a left hand valve. Is that true or just the photo?

 

[rootshell73]

If this is for a MK25, I can sell you a yoke kit, because not that long ago I bought a MK25 used and converted it to DIN because I use it cave diving. In terms of the measurement, the 1st stage with yoke would be about the same distance from the tank as with DIN. It’s the adapter that makes it stick out.

Buying a yoke does mean that you’d have to remove the DIN retainer and replace it with the yoke, and that requires a specialized socket and a torque wrench. It’s also not something you’d want to do often, like every week. But it would be fine once or twice a year. You can send me a PM if you’re interested in going that route. It’s a lot cheaper than buying another 1st stage.

Out of curiosity, it looks like your regulator is on a left hand valve. Is that true or just the photo?

Interesting, I didn’t realize that you can convert the first stage itself from DIN to yoke, but I guess it makes sense. I’ll have to look in to that option as well.

You are correct about the valve. As of right now I have four cylinders (two for me and two for the wife). When purchasing them, I intentionally bought two right valves and two left valves in case I ever decided to twinset them or dive side mount.

 

[Ez E]

Tagging to follow the thread. Ive never used the DIN connection or DIN with a yoke. But when I dive the first stage has never been near my head. This is with a yoke setup. I place the tank far enough down where my head is never a concern.

Im a newbie but this it how I was taught.

 

[rootshell73]

Tagging to follow the thread. Ive never used the DIN connection or DIN with a yoke. But when I dive the first stage has never been near my head. This is with a yoke setup. I place the tank far enough down where my head is never a concern.

Im a newbie but this it how I was taught.

Yeah, tank placement relative to BCD is a good point. As the pictures may illustrate, I use a BP/W and I am definitely limited in how low I can set the tank as the regulator will get in the way of the wing.

If I’m using a DIN connection it’s not a problem I really notice. With the yoke adapter however, I do notice sometimes that I can’t rotate my head up as much as a direct DIN connection.

 

[Hydo]

I’m rebuilding my reg set at the moment and had my mk25 evo yoke on the table when I saw your post. So here’s a photo:

As you can see it's the most compact setup - it leaves more headspace than your DIN reg setup.

 

[lexvil]

The best way to do this is buy a second first stage in yoke for travel, I just switch mine to yoke but I have the tools, it’s not hard to do at all but not as easy as a dedicated first stage for travel.

 

[rx7diver]

For my SP MK10's, I use either yoke or DIN as convenient. I don't use any special tools for switching the yoke to DIN or vice versa. In particular, I don't use (haven't used) a torque wrench--although, if I owned one, I would use it. Switching back and forth is straightforward.

One thing: I have sometimes needed to use a vise (to hold the MK10) when unscrewing the yoke nut. I don't own a vise, but when I need one, my LDS lets me use the one mounted on his reg repair bench.

rx7diver

 

[rootshell73]

I’m rebuilding my reg set at the moment and had my mk25 eco yoke on the table when I saw your post. So here’s a photo:View attachment 836662
As you ca see it's the most compact setup - it leaves more headspace than your DIN reg setup.

Wow, yeah that is extremely compact. Thank you for the measurement. Definitely something I wish I looked into more before purchasing.

 

[rootshell73]

The best way to do this is buy a second first stage in yoke for travel, I just switch mine to yoke but I have the tools, it’s not hard to do at all but not as easy as a dedicated first stage for travel.

I was actually thinking about this as well. Not that a well serviced first stage should fail, but I was thinking about getting a yoke for travel and as a backup first stage.