Please provide a picture of your tank valve.
I have a yoke cyclinder. And a din regulator. Is there anything I can buy to convert my actual cylinder to a din.
- Thread starter BigAladdin
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RobPNW
Contributor
Something like this:
www.houseofscuba.com
XS Scuba Tank Valve MOD Modular PRO 3442 psi EANx
This is the XS Scuba Tank Valve MOD Modular PRO 3442 psi EANx Features: Materials: Body & Stems; Chromed Brass, Seat; Nylon w/Teflon Coated Brass Type: (Yoke, DIN, Convertible) Convertible Nitrox Ready: Yes, Up to 40% Thread Size: 3/4-14 NPSM XS Scuba's Valves are designed and manufactured for...
www.houseofscuba.com
OP
BigAladdin
Registered
I didn’t even know such a thing existed. Thank you!Something like this:
XS Scuba Tank Valve MOD Modular PRO 3442 psi EANx
This is the XS Scuba Tank Valve MOD Modular PRO 3442 psi EANx Features: Materials: Body & Stems; Chromed Brass, Seat; Nylon w/Teflon Coated Brass Type: (Yoke, DIN, Convertible) Convertible Nitrox Ready: Yes, Up to 40% Thread Size: 3/4-14 NPSM XS Scuba's Valves are designed and manufactured for...
OMyMyOHellYes
Contributor
The tank can be fixed or the reg can be fixed or there's the effective, but slightly kludgy adapter you just spin your DIN reg into and pretend it's a yoke reg:
www.divegearexpress.com
More about your tank, please? Just to make sure we're all on the same page with what we're recommending.
Material, service pressure, manufacturer, and original (manufacture) hydro date, and color (no, not really color). Is it a new tank or one Uncle Charley who was a diver back in the 80s had in his garage he gave you or one you picked up on craigsfacelistbook? I ask because you need to know that. There are some floating around with an aluminum alloy that is more susceptible to cracking under sustained pressure - those require more stringent inspection and in many cases, well, it's hard to find folks that will deal with them.
The rest of this assumes that it is already good to go with current hydro (last 5 years) and VIP sticker (last 11 months. Maybe 12, depending on how you count).
If not, when you next get it in for visual inspection, they can just swap out the valve since the old one has to come off.
If it's a stand-alone, single tank on your back - not a paired doubles set, application, you don't need (or likely want) a modular valve on it.
If it is over 3,442 PSI service pressure (3,500 or up), you can't (according to Hoyle) use the convertible DIN it will need the longer 300 BAR DIN. But if it is 3,442 or less, you wouldn't likely want the 300 BAR DIN because of the utility provided by the pro valve. You will need to match the valve's pressure rating to the service pressure of the tank. (Actually, it's not the valve itself, that determines the rated pressure - it's the burst disk.)
NOTE: If you get a valve and drain the tank and twist a new valve on it (firmly hand tight, please, thank you), your fill station may likely want to do a new visual because if folks bring in a dead flat tank, there's the potential it could have gotten gunk or water in it, so that's advisable unless they will trust you when you explain replacing the valve. And they don't scold you since you are NEVER allowed to touch the functional parts of your equipment. Only they are enlightened enough to do that! (Yes, I am a self-professed smartass)
www.divegearexpress.com
Or TWO for $10 less (and I can give the one you don't want a home...)
www.divegearexpress.com
Also, depending on your reg set, another alternative might to be converting IT over to yoke. For the most part, that is a trivial exercise that any competent shop should be equipped to do in about 5 minutes.
Again, need more specificity on the reg. Kits to change over a ScubaPro reg (current models) start as low as $45 for the part. There is a need to securely hold the reg and torque the part to a published spec. Should be roughly the same for any mainline modern reg. (parts likely higher through local dive shop.)
Depending on your expected diving (rec vs tec) and location US/North America/Caribbean/Asia most operations are pointed to yoke regs, Europe is pointed more to DIN. You may wish to configure your regs thusly rather than you cylinder.
But you can't lose regardless with the convertible pro valve.
DIN-to-Yoke Spin-on Adapter
Use this spin-on adapter to connect any 200 Bar or 300 Bar DIN first stage regulator fitting to a yoke-type cylinder K-valve.
www.divegearexpress.com
More about your tank, please? Just to make sure we're all on the same page with what we're recommending.
Material, service pressure, manufacturer, and original (manufacture) hydro date, and color (no, not really color). Is it a new tank or one Uncle Charley who was a diver back in the 80s had in his garage he gave you or one you picked up on craigsfacelistbook? I ask because you need to know that. There are some floating around with an aluminum alloy that is more susceptible to cracking under sustained pressure - those require more stringent inspection and in many cases, well, it's hard to find folks that will deal with them.
The rest of this assumes that it is already good to go with current hydro (last 5 years) and VIP sticker (last 11 months. Maybe 12, depending on how you count).
If not, when you next get it in for visual inspection, they can just swap out the valve since the old one has to come off.
If it's a stand-alone, single tank on your back - not a paired doubles set, application, you don't need (or likely want) a modular valve on it.
If it is over 3,442 PSI service pressure (3,500 or up), you can't (according to Hoyle) use the convertible DIN it will need the longer 300 BAR DIN. But if it is 3,442 or less, you wouldn't likely want the 300 BAR DIN because of the utility provided by the pro valve. You will need to match the valve's pressure rating to the service pressure of the tank. (Actually, it's not the valve itself, that determines the rated pressure - it's the burst disk.)
NOTE: If you get a valve and drain the tank and twist a new valve on it (firmly hand tight, please, thank you), your fill station may likely want to do a new visual because if folks bring in a dead flat tank, there's the potential it could have gotten gunk or water in it, so that's advisable unless they will trust you when you explain replacing the valve. And they don't scold you since you are NEVER allowed to touch the functional parts of your equipment. Only they are enlightened enough to do that! (Yes, I am a self-professed smartass)
Thermo Pro DIN/K Standalone Valve (Typical Side)
Thermo Pro SCUBA valves are polished finish heavy chrome plated brass and have DIN outlets that can accept included removable inserts so the valves may also be used with yoke regulator first stage fittings.
www.divegearexpress.com
Or TWO for $10 less (and I can give the one you don't want a home...)
Thermo Pro DIN/K 3000 Standalone Valves (Typical Side) - Pair
Value priced as a pair! This version of the the Thermo Standalone Valve has a 5000 psi burst disk suitable for use with cylinders up to 3000 psi service pressure.
www.divegearexpress.com
Also, depending on your reg set, another alternative might to be converting IT over to yoke. For the most part, that is a trivial exercise that any competent shop should be equipped to do in about 5 minutes.
Again, need more specificity on the reg. Kits to change over a ScubaPro reg (current models) start as low as $45 for the part. There is a need to securely hold the reg and torque the part to a published spec. Should be roughly the same for any mainline modern reg. (parts likely higher through local dive shop.)
Depending on your expected diving (rec vs tec) and location US/North America/Caribbean/Asia most operations are pointed to yoke regs, Europe is pointed more to DIN. You may wish to configure your regs thusly rather than you cylinder.
But you can't lose regardless with the convertible pro valve.
RobPNW
Contributor
You'll need a 5/16" or 8mm hex key tool for that insert.
OMyMyOHellYes
Contributor
broncobowsher
Contributor
The nice part about the yoke spin on adapter mentioned above, when you travel and get a yoke cylinder you can use the adapter and go dive. Fixes the issue of tank compatibility. Some regulators were sold with that adapter already installed and the owners didn't even know it.
For your personal tank, a DIN valve (or the convertible Pro valve with the insert) is a good choice. But it isn't one valve fits all tanks. There are different pressure ratings for the burst disk and different thread configurations where the valve screws into the tank. Yes, there are the common ones. But there are also plenty of odd ones out there as well. Not knowing what cylinder you have means we can't offer an exact correct valve, just a general idea of what a valve you want will be.
For your personal tank, a DIN valve (or the convertible Pro valve with the insert) is a good choice. But it isn't one valve fits all tanks. There are different pressure ratings for the burst disk and different thread configurations where the valve screws into the tank. Yes, there are the common ones. But there are also plenty of odd ones out there as well. Not knowing what cylinder you have means we can't offer an exact correct valve, just a general idea of what a valve you want will be.
Belzelbub
Contributor
And depending on your tank, it might even be possible that you have a convertible valve installed already. Depending on your tank type and age. Newer tanks are more likely.
LP steel. Maybe.
AL. Maybe.
HP steel. Very likely.
Post a pic of the face of the valve on your tank, and it will be easy to identify if it’s convertible or not. If it is, it may not be easy to get the insert out, though.
OMyMyOHellYes
Contributor
If we're playing show and tell, the how about pics of the letters & numbers stamped all around the shoulder of the tank.
Also, where di dhte reg come from? Kinda asking if from old Unca Charley or off of Craigsfacelistbook, how long has it been since serviced/rebuilt, and if due, and you know all your diving will be in North America/Caribbean, might consider converting it to yoke. Traivial while it's in for service. And it's not dependent on take service pressure or neck threads or ...
Belzelbub
Contributor
That might help with getting the right valve. But the OP indicated wanting to get the tanks DIN. Pretty sure there are DIN valves available for just about every tank out there. At least tanks likely to be encountered.
Yeah, but then you can only use that reg for yoke tanks. If you use primarily rental tanks in the US, then yoke makes sense. If you own your own tanks and dive them, DIN makes sense.
I’ve got HP steels and Al tanks. Ironically, the steels have convertible valves, but the AL80s have DIN only valves. I just got tired of using an adapter, and swapped the valves during a VIP.
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