Mares Smart vs Oceanic Geo 2.0

  • Mares Smart

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Oceanic Geo 2.0

    Votes: 9 100.0%

  • Total voters
    9

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

I bet they'll reset if you remove the battery for long enough, and/or short a pair of magic contacts inside.

Anyway, my point is you have to pick a default and whichever one you pick is not going to please everyone. Arguably cressi and shearwater put you at risk of exceeding your ndl if you forget to set your gas and dive air while the computer is "last set" to nitrox. While oceanics put you at risk of oxtox if you dive nitrox with the computer re-set to air. Neither is a perfect default, but you have to pick one.

Personally, I'd put an O2 sensor in the transmitter and have the computer always know exactly what I'm breathing.
Have never had them reset so far but I don't remove the battery between trips. I may just teat this and see.

There is no perfect solution and no cure for stupid or carelessness. Designers can incoporate as many fail-safe features as humanly possible but people will still find ways to kill themselves. Personally, if a mistake is made, I prefer it to be mine rather then the computer's. Either way, its no big deal for me on a recreational dive. I know my gas, my depth and my time so even if the computer settings are screwed my dive isn't.

And that is the beauty of the SW, it will let me make mistakes but if it catches it, it will let me know and even let me fix it during a dive.


I like the idea of the O2 sensor but then errors can still be made including a faulty device/calibration.
 
Last edited:
Designers can incoporate as many fail-safe features as humanly possible but people will still find ways to kill themselves.

Aka after you come up with a better foolproof device, Nature comes up with a better fool.

PS

I like the idea of the O2 sensor but then errors can still be made including a faulty device/calibration.

There you go: you still have to pre-program a default in case the sensor's not making sense, and the default is still wrong for some diver or other.
 
Last edited:
I bet they'll reset if you remove the battery for long enough, and/or short a pair of magic contacts inside.

Anyway, my point is you have to pick a default and whichever one you pick is not going to please everyone.

Crikey, you are reaching to try and support your point! Nobody here is talking about what FO2 it should be set to when it's brand new or after a hard reset (or even a soft reset). We're only talking about whether it should change your setting 24 hours after your last dive.

And the answer is, No, it shouldn't. And no, you do not have to pick a default for 24 hours after the last dive. Yes, when the computer is brand new, or if you do a reset on it, it has to start somewhere. Along with all the other settings the user can muck with. So what? Nobody is going to expect it to come out of the box (or after a reset) setup exactly the way they want to use it. Especially on the FO2 setting. But, it is totally reasonable to expect the FO2 setting to be whatever I set it to 5 minutes ago - not Air because after I set it 5 minutes ago the 24 hour clock ran out since my last dive.
 
There you go: you still have to pre-program a default in case the sensor's not making sense, and the default is still wrong for some diver or other.

No, you don't have to program a default. That would actually be foolish. If the computer is reading on O2 sensor on the transmitter and the sensor is not making sense, the computer should display an error and refuse to operate in Dive mode (only in Gauge mode). Having it use some "default" that could be WAY off from reality is insane.
 
It's happened to Eric at least twice. Now he will only set it on the boat.

I set mine on the boat all 3 times it happened to me! The only real answer is to really pay attention to the surface interval that is being displayed and, if there is any chance it will hit 24:00:00 before you get in the water, then wait to set the FO2 until, either, IMMEDIATELY before you get in, or after the 24 hour clock expires.
 
I set mine on the boat all 3 times it happened to me! The only real answer is to really pay attention to the surface interval that is being displayed and, if there is any chance it will hit 24:00:00 before you get in the water, then wait to set the FO2 until, either, IMMEDIATELY before you get in, or after the 24 hour clock expires.

The no-fly countdown will give you the exact time to expect the reset. This is very easy to check
 
The no-fly countdown will give you the exact time to expect the reset. This is very easy to check

The SI is right there on the main display. It doesn't count down to 0. But, looking at it and figuring out how long until it hits 24:00:00 is easy enough. It's just that I shouldn't have to do that. It's one more thing on a fairly long checklist.

Plus, at least one of the times I've been bitten by this, the 24 hour clock was running out so close to the time we were going to be getting in that it was just not good to have to worry about it. Rough seas. Current. The dive master telling us "okay, the captain is going to set us up and when he shouts dive, dive, dive, everyone needs to get in as quickly as possible." When the 24 hour clock runs out in the middle of that goat rope, it's kind of a PITA. And since there is no good reason for it in the first place, that makes it extra annoying.
 
The no-fly countdown will give you the exact time to expect the reset. This is very easy to check
Its not that a diver can't work around this problem but more why Oceanic makes it necessary.
 
The SI is right there on the main display. It doesn't count down to 0. But, looking at it and figuring out how long until it hits 24:00:00 is easy enough. It's just that I shouldn't have to do that. It's one more thing on a fairly long checklist.

Plus, at least one of the times I've been bitten by this, the 24 hour clock was running out so close to the time we were going to be getting in that it was just not good to have to worry about it. Rough seas. Current. The dive master telling us "okay, the captain is going to set us up and when he shouts dive, dive, dive, everyone needs to get in as quickly as possible." When the 24 hour clock runs out in the middle of that goat rope, it's kind of a PITA. And since there is no good reason for it in the first place, that makes it extra annoying.

So......I don't like the way Pelagic Pressure Systems computers monitor oxygen exposure, you don't like the 24 hour new dive series reset of the FO2. After more than 1000 dives on Oceanic computers, I've never been reset between setting or checking my FO2 before the dive, and diving. On the other hand, I have exceeded the rolling 24 hour NOAA oxygen exposure window on many occasions and made it more difficult to monitor my NDL with either my VT3 or my Geo2. We all have our complaints, to each their own. I don't feel the same pressure you do just before diving, and find it takes well less than a minute to check the FO2 set on both my computers
 
Its really not worth arguing over. It is what it is. But most of my Oceanic experience is with an older Veo 100nx. Just setting the FO2 is a pain and there is no easy way to simply glance at the screen and check the current setting. And not only does it reset after the 24 hour period but each time it is activated. That means if you are not in a desaturation period and set the gas while checking your gear before leaving for the dive, there is a fair chance it will shut off and you will have to reset again before you drop. All in all a real PITA that I just don't see a need for.
 

Back
Top Bottom