72's Scuba Tanks
- Thread starter LadyDiva
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Essentially, a good steel 72 is a good investment. Even if the liner has to be tumbled out. However, I suspect, the liner is OK. I have two of my fleet of 72s with the dark liner from the late 60s, my first two tanks actually! They are fine, no rust.
On a few occasions I have had trouble in Florida filling any steel 72. I had a new Faber with a vintage decal and they refused to fill it also. I pointed out to the "dude" that the tank was brand new! No go, he was convinced it was a trick. But, normally, shops have no issue filling them. I went to the next shop down the road in the case above and he filled them with a smile.
N
On a few occasions I have had trouble in Florida filling any steel 72. I had a new Faber with a vintage decal and they refused to fill it also. I pointed out to the "dude" that the tank was brand new! No go, he was convinced it was a trick. But, normally, shops have no issue filling them. I went to the next shop down the road in the case above and he filled them with a smile.
N
Scared Silly
Contributor
I spoke to the LDS... they said, surprisingly, that all three tanks looked good on the inside, BUT their hydro facility will not hydro tanks with linings. That NO one will.
IMO, only one of the three J-valves will need to be replaced, but the LDS said they would not trust the J-valves, hence the replacement suggestion.
NOT sure if they are 3/4 thread, but I think so.
The tanks are NOT hot dipped galvanized, but have been painted black and look really good. There are a few chips, but overall, has good coverage. I will have to check under each boot (all are self-draining) for corrosion.
NOT sure if they have the REE number(s), will have to check into that as well.
You've given me very good questions to ask and things to look for! Most helpful, THANKS!
---------- Post Merged at 03:13 PM ---------- Previous Post was at 11:44 AM ----------
Edited the previous post after speaking to the LDS.
---------- Post Merged at 03:21 PM ---------- Previous Post was at 11:44 AM ----------
I cannot open your attachment
IMO, only one of the three J-valves will need to be replaced, but the LDS said they would not trust the J-valves, hence the replacement suggestion.
NOT sure if they are 3/4 thread, but I think so.
The tanks are NOT hot dipped galvanized, but have been painted black and look really good. There are a few chips, but overall, has good coverage. I will have to check under each boot (all are self-draining) for corrosion.
NOT sure if they have the REE number(s), will have to check into that as well.
You've given me very good questions to ask and things to look for! Most helpful, THANKS!
---------- Post Merged at 03:13 PM ---------- Previous Post was at 11:44 AM ----------
Edited the previous post after speaking to the LDS.
---------- Post Merged at 03:21 PM ---------- Previous Post was at 11:44 AM ----------
I cannot open your attachment
Last edited:
captain
Contributor
Just had my lined tank hydroed a few months ago for the umpteeth time. Find a better hydro shop.
---------- Post Merged at 08:40 PM ---------- Previous Post was at 08:31 PM ----------
Once more. If your tanks aren't hot dipped galvanized the procedure is not needed.
http://www.ctcseminars.com/Files/Technical/PST Tecnical bulletin D100.pdf
72 REE
http://www.ctcseminars.com/files/technical/PST REE values.pdf
eelnoraa
Contributor
I am not a big fan of steel 72s. And for $120/tank, I will pass. Liner being one hurdle to get it viz or hydro. Also keep in mine that LP72s without "+" rating give your 65CF of air only, pretty small amount of air.
Also, I don't understand the hate for AL tank especially for warm water diving.
Also, I don't understand the hate for AL tank especially for warm water diving.
Rich Keller
Contributor
Your LDS is wrong at best, hydro facilities will test tanks with linings, I had mine done a couple of years ago. Hydro facilities are regulated by the DOT so unlike the LDS they cannot make up rules as they go along. Find another shop, these people either do not know what they are talking about or they are lying to you.
halocline
Contributor
There are many LP72s that are galvanized under paint. Don't assume because they're painted that they're not galvanized. You have to look under the paint (there's got to be a chip somewhere) to see if it's galvanized or bare steel. If they're not galvanized, I'd probably pass on them, but the majority of tanks I've seen from the years yours are probably from do turn out to be galvanized under paint.
Have a look at the numbers/letters on them, post them here, someone can tell you who made the tanks. If they're PST, there is a working REE number for them.
The allure of these tanks over AL80s is simple; they're smaller, lighter, and neutral when empty. It is true that a 2250 PSI fill turns them into the equivalent of AL63s, (sort of) but then again if you get a slight overfill to 2700 PSI they have as much air as an AL80, in a much smaller package.
I love them for local shore dives; I can carry them around very easily and use 4lbs less lead, and my local diving is very shallow so I don't need much air.
Have a look at the numbers/letters on them, post them here, someone can tell you who made the tanks. If they're PST, there is a working REE number for them.
The allure of these tanks over AL80s is simple; they're smaller, lighter, and neutral when empty. It is true that a 2250 PSI fill turns them into the equivalent of AL63s, (sort of) but then again if you get a slight overfill to 2700 PSI they have as much air as an AL80, in a much smaller package.
I love them for local shore dives; I can carry them around very easily and use 4lbs less lead, and my local diving is very shallow so I don't need much air.
I never understood the aluminum 80 hate either. They are fine for warm water diving and virtually zero maintenance. I also really like the aluminum 63 and have several because they are great shore dive tanks that really do not dive much different from the venerable steel 72. That said, I have no problem normally getting 2400-ish psi fills on my 72s. The steel 72 is small, light and has superb characteristics for no-BC/minimalist diving. The aluminum 63 is about 2 to 2.5 pounds buoyant empty, the steel 72 tends to be neutral, that is immediately 2 to 2.5 pounds off my belt. The empty carry weight of the steel 72 and aluminum 63 are similar. Is two pounds a big deal, well, depending on how far I have to walk with my titanium leg, yeah, it can be.
N
I don't think it's about hate, but about preference. For me, it's more about buoyancy and the handling of a smaller tank. Not to mention, a steel tank will last a very long time, unlike the Aluminums out there now.
---------- Post Merged at 01:15 AM ---------- Previous Post was at 01:05 AM ----------
Here is an email I recieved from a Director of Operations at a hydrotesting facility. IMO, it all boils down to the dive shop/testing facility's interpretation of the regulation.
"With few exceptions there is no legitimate reason to remove a liner that appears as you describe. It is probably red but may be blue. The exception is a cylinder that is vinyl lined, either inside or out. Code of Federal Regulations (CFR 49 parts 100-185) states that any a visual inspection must be removed before testing, the liner you describe does not fall into this category as it is so thin that any corrosion taking place will blister it. Outside this would include vinyl and sometimes multiple coats of paint, tank wraps large stickers etc. Inside this would mean a vinyl liner.They were installed like a balloon inflated into the cylinder, and can easily be detected by the give produced when poked with a probe. Any tank that has been internally painted by its owner should be automatically failed as well.
Hope this helps!"
---------- Post Merged at 01:15 AM ---------- Previous Post was at 01:05 AM ----------
Here is an email I recieved from a Director of Operations at a hydrotesting facility. IMO, it all boils down to the dive shop/testing facility's interpretation of the regulation.
"With few exceptions there is no legitimate reason to remove a liner that appears as you describe. It is probably red but may be blue. The exception is a cylinder that is vinyl lined, either inside or out. Code of Federal Regulations (CFR 49 parts 100-185) states that any a visual inspection must be removed before testing, the liner you describe does not fall into this category as it is so thin that any corrosion taking place will blister it. Outside this would include vinyl and sometimes multiple coats of paint, tank wraps large stickers etc. Inside this would mean a vinyl liner.They were installed like a balloon inflated into the cylinder, and can easily be detected by the give produced when poked with a probe. Any tank that has been internally painted by its owner should be automatically failed as well.
Hope this helps!"
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