Which reg/what to consider? S/P Mk25 and 2nds

[Seaweed Doc]

I'm thinking of getting a new regulator. I've got a good first reg, but it's not great. I'd like to revert it to backup/pony status. Accept for a moment that it's a given I'll buy a Scubapro MK25 first stage. (Yeah I know, that one will kill me along with my split fins and pony bottle. At least I don't have an Air2!) I've narrowed it down to 3 options in a reasonable price range and with some features I like:

MK 25 EVO/S620 Ti
MK 25 EVO/G260 BT
MK 25 EVO/A700

About me:
I'm diving in cool to cold water (4 degrees C and up) primarily.
I'm thinking I might want to do tech down the road, but "air or nitrox deco" tech not "trimix and a rebreather tech." Tech lite?
I dive in some pretty muddy places at times for work. And I dig in the mud. (Might be best to save an old reg for that purpose, so I wouldn't weight this too heavily.)
I want easy breathing at depth for the first time in my life.
I wouldn't mind going up in price a bit from the 3 above, but only for a compelling reason.

Here are the differences I'm seeing between them, with a comment on my thoughts:

A vs. S vs. G series-I have no idea what that means. The S/P catalog has words. On paper. But they don't clearly seem to state the differences other than probably price.

1st stage material: Chrome-plated brass vs. black tech-coated brass. OK, why do I care about this? Help?

2nd stage material: Titanium "Components" vs. Anodized Aluminum Front Cover vs. All-Metal Casing. "All metal casing" sounds nice to me. That is, rugged. Titanium sounds vaguely idiot proof, if you forget to rinse.

Weight: 2.55 pounds vs 2.85 pounds. I don't care about my regulator's weight if it doesn't care about mine.

What do you all think?

 

[tbone1004]

@Seaweed Doc I have 8 M25's, so this isn't from an anti mk25 perspective.
If you are diving in 4c/40F water, and in the mud, why on earth are you looking at an unsealed regulator?

A700 is essentially a G250 with a fancy metal case. Buy it because you think it looks cool and you can afford it. No reason to buy it otherwise.
G250 is the regulator that spawned nearly all regulators. Well, it's at least the grandchild of the one that did. 109 became the 156 which became the G series, which became the A series.
S600 is a smaller regulator and breathes great, but wouldn't be where I'd spend my money.

Frankly though, if you are diving in cold, muddy water, you're really looking at the wrong style of first stage... If you want to stay with Scubapro, the MK17 is much better suited for that kind of diving

 

[Seaweed Doc]

@Seaweed Doc I have 8 M25's, so this isn't from an anti mk25 perspective.
If you are diving in 4c/40F water, and in the mud, why on earth are you looking at an unsealed regulator?

A700 is essentially a G250 with a fancy metal case. Buy it because you think it looks cool and you can afford it. No reason to buy it otherwise.
G250 is the regulator that spawned nearly all regulators. Well, it's at least the grandchild of the one that did. 109 became the 156 which became the G series, which became the A series.
S600 is a smaller regulator and breathes great, but wouldn't be where I'd spend my money.

Frankly though, if you are diving in cold, muddy water, you're really looking at the wrong style of first stage... If you want to stay with Scubapro, the MK17 is much better suited for that kind of diving

Thanks: I'll take a look at it. Using a Zeagle 50D now. However, the muck is something I might save for an older reg like the Zeagle.

Off topic, but I noticed that your screen name is the same as a computer at the University of South Carolina. Coincidence?

 

[tbone1004]

Thanks: I'll take a look at it. Using a Zeagle 50D now. However, the muck is something I might save for an older reg like the Zeagle.

Off topic, but I noticed that your screen name is the same as a computer at the University of South Carolina. Coincidence?

I teach with, and graduated from North Carolina State Univ. I am an ABC fan, Anyone but Carolina. Doesn't matter which one.

What do you expect to get from the Scubapro that you aren't getting from the Zeagle?

 

[Seaweed Doc]

I teach with, and graduated from North Carolina State Univ. I am an ABC fan, Anyone but Carolina. Doesn't matter which one.

What do you expect to get from the Scubapro that you aren't getting from the Zeagle?

Easier breathing at depth, and a second decent unit for use on pony or twins.

My current "backups" are a Cressi POS (no longer easily serviced) and an old Mares donated to my department in dubious condition. All have been serviced, but the Zeagle was the only deliberate purchase and is the one I trust most. I've also got a hodge-podge of 2nd stages attached to these; as diving needs and requirements evolved I moved and swapped. (Octopus? I need a secondary 2nd stage?) Did I mention the gauge console I've used for 33 years?

Didn't realize the MK25 wasn't sealed; I wish S/P would include minor details like that in their tables comparing units.

 

[NAUI Wowie]

I'm thinking of getting a new regulator. I've got a good first reg, but it's not great. I'd like to revert it to backup/pony status. Accept for a moment that it's a given I'll buy a Scubapro MK25 first stage. (Yeah I know, that one will kill me along with my split fins and pony bottle. At least I don't have an Air2!) I've narrowed it down to 3 options in a reasonable price range and with some features I like:

MK 25 EVO/S620 Ti
MK 25 EVO/G260 BT
MK 25 EVO/A700

About me:
I'm diving in cool to cold water (4 degrees C and up) primarily.
I'm thinking I might want to do tech down the road, but "air or nitrox deco" tech not "trimix and a rebreather tech." Tech lite?
I dive in some pretty muddy places at times for work. And I dig in the mud. (Might be best to save an old reg for that purpose, so I wouldn't weight this too heavily.)
I want easy breathing at depth for the first time in my life.
I wouldn't mind going up in price a bit from the 3 above, but only for a compelling reason.

Here are the differences I'm seeing between them, with a comment on my thoughts:

A vs. S vs. G series-I have no idea what that means. The S/P catalog has words. On paper. But they don't clearly seem to state the differences other than probably price.

1st stage material: Chrome-plated brass vs. black tech-coated brass. OK, why do I care about this? Help?

2nd stage material: Titanium "Components" vs. Anodized Aluminum Front Cover vs. All-Metal Casing. "All metal casing" sounds nice to me. That is, rugged. Titanium sounds vaguely idiot proof, if you forget to rinse.

Weight: 2.55 pounds vs 2.85 pounds. I don't care about my regulator's weight if it doesn't care about mine.

What do you all think?

Why not an Atomic T3 titanium? original titanium manufacturer. I got mine on sale in 2018 at my LDS during their twice a year big sale for about $1250 bucks. it was selling for 1550 with a 20% off sale. in california.

all titanium and very sweet. once every three years servicing. I travel to P.I. and mexico and was looking for a super light super comfortable regulator thats bullet proof. This hits all points. And I get some will say you can take a step down on all brands and get better value. But its at a cost of more weight, shorter service intervals which adds up to more cost in long run and a ho hum experience. I am dirt poor lol but I found a way to get nice equipment. People spend 20 grand on a motorcycle for a weekend hobby. golfing....easily can spend over 7 grand on nice gear and dont get started on greens fees, off roading etc. no one complains when you spend 20 to 50 grand on other hobbies but if you spend a few hundred more dollars on a regulator people go bat ape crazy saying its not necessary.

Id rather buy top notch equipment that keeps me alive vs even more expensive equipment to let me drive or ride in dirt or hit a tiny ball 300 yards. I prefer breathing super comfortably if im at 100 feet deep

 

[tbone1004]

@Seaweed Doc if the argument is easier breathing at depth, especially with use on a pony or doubles, you want matching regulators otherwise the logic isn't sound.

Scubapro is a piston company and always has been. They sealed some of their pistons for a little while, but it's expensive and messy to seal them.
For what you want, especially if most of your diving is in salt water, I would just avoid pistons altogether. Like I said, I have 8 MK25's, but they're for cave diving and I got them dirt cheap. Also use them with Poseidon second stages, but such is life.

@ScubadriverDale the T3 would just add cost to service if you wanted to seal it.

 

[NAUI Wowie]

@Seaweed Doc if the argument is easier breathing at depth, especially with use on a pony or doubles, you want matching regulators otherwise the logic isn't sound.

Scubapro is a piston company and always has been. They sealed some of their pistons for a little while, but it's expensive and messy to seal them.
For what you want, especially if most of your diving is in salt water, I would just avoid pistons altogether. Like I said, I have 8 MK25's, but they're for cave diving and I got them dirt cheap. Also use them with Poseidon second stages, but such is life.

@ScubadriverDale the T3 would just add cost to service if you wanted to seal it.

The T3 is sealed. What are you referring to?

 

[tbone1004]

The T3 is sealed. What are you referring to?

It is not an insignificant cost at service time to keep those things sealed, and you have to be extremely careful with them around heat to prevent any of the grease from leaking out. If it does, it will trap sea water and utterly destroy pistons so I would never go 3 years with a sealed piston. Yes it has happened, yes it's real, and yes it is really expensive when it happens. If you want a sealed regulator, buy one that actually seals instead of one that's packed with grease to pretend

 

[BoltSnap]

MK 25 EVO/S620 Ti
MK 25 EVO/G260 BT

One of these two.