Scubapro Mk25: To DIN or not to DIN?

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Any special instructions to change ScubaPro yoke to DIN? I have the DIN conversion kit. I will have the socket, torque wrench, and extension. Do you lubricate any of the O-rings? I know not to torque past 50 ft/pounds
Very light silicone coating on O rings. Keep everything very clean. Tighten to the point where some moderate effort is required. You can judge approximately from the effort required to remove the yoke. The Allen wrench will require a bit more effort than a larger wrench, but the whole concept is very simple: It's to tighten things enough to be completely secure, but not so tight that the O ring is compromised or so much that it will be difficult to remove later. No magic torque numbers, nothing at all affecting regulator function. Simple stuff. It's not rocket science or the involvement of especially sensitive components. Some folks like to think scuba is some mystically high tech operation. It's not.
 
Very light silicone coating on O rings. Keep everything very clean. Tighten to the point where some moderate effort is required. You can judge approximately from the effort required to remove the yoke. The Allen wrench will require a bit more effort than a larger wrench, but the whole concept is very simple: It's to tighten things enough to be completely secure, but not so tight that the O ring is compromised or so much that it will be difficult to remove later. No magic torque numbers, nothing at all affecting regulator function. Simple stuff. It's not rocket science or the involvement of especially sensitive components. Some folks like to think scuba is some mystically high tech operation. It's not.
Don't laugh but can I use Christolube instead? I only have Christolube
 
My experience is similar to others here. I think the answer depends on your primary diving.

After my first set of regs were no longer what I wanted, I purchased a DIN reg. Most of my diving at the time was local, and when traveling I would use the adapter. I did find the reg protruded quite a bit and I often hit my head. When I started traveling more, I had the opportunity to buy a second set of regs at a very good price, so I now have a local DIN set and a travel yolk set.

As someone said, if you buy the Yolk version and the kit to convert to DIN, when you make the transition to USVI and most of the diving is yolk, convert it. I was just on St. John and speaking to one of their new instructors with a DIN reg, Low Key has ONE DIN valve on a tank, everything else is yolk.
 
Don't laugh but can I use Christolube instead? I only have Christolube
Of course. Expensive stuff, but if you already have some. The primary purpose is to make the O ring slippery enough with an inert lubricant that will endure salt water so that it does not bind while the metal parts are squeezing it while turning during tightening. It also prevents drying out, but O rings should be replaced every so often.
 
Great thread! Not much to add except a picture...

IMG_4361.jpg
 
Missing the tool to remove the DIN "stem" after you remove the "innards" with that socket.... perhaps a crows foot?

:cheers:

I use a 5/32" hex key on a socket, and a 6mm hex key on a socket to do my DIN attachments.

And then the two tools from Scuba Tools for the yoke.
 
Missing the tool to remove the DIN "stem" after you remove the "innards" with that socket.... perhaps a crows foot?

Not sure I understand, the allen insert on the 3/8 drive removes the entire DIN stem on the Atomic. FOr the yoke you use the 3/8 extender with the socket. There are other sockets that use an allen connection, but I like the Scubatools best and it uses the 3/8 connection.
 

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