Scubapro Mk25: To DIN or not to DIN?

[Celt]

Heading off for a dive now, lovely morning and my 7ltrs tanks slung for sidemount which I couldn’t have used with din as its a yoke only.

 

[Bigbella]

Has anyone actually tested scubapro yoke valves. I could see treads on din getting damaged far quicker than a yoke. Even a small bang on a valve and you can’t get the inserts out. The force that would be needed the dislodged a pressurised yoke is going to damage any setup. I pump all my tanks to 250 bar and with yoke regs I never as much as blew an oring. As for compact and using din for side mount. When I switched to side mount I found the yoke knob a handy place to sling with the bungee to snug up the tank at times and I was able to use any tank irrespective of what valve it had. The argument for the knob sticking out is ridiculous as the tank is lower.

I have either possessed or had access to DIN tanks, since the 1980s, when they first really hit the US market, well before those combination valves with the inserts; and I've never experienced cross-threading issues with any of my regulators, in all that time; nor have I ever had issues removing an insert on a more modern valve; but have seen knobs cleaved off of yoked regulators; sundry o-ring failures, while working boats (usually, as result of piss-poor maintenance on a diver's part); and the aforementioned problems, mentioned earlier in the thread.

Sure, the level of damage, capable of damaging a yoke, would likely also affect a DIN set-up as well; but I haven't seen that, in thirty-plus years of commercial diving, in often less than ideal conditions.

Perhaps, it ultimately comes down to a matter of preference. I have always had the capacity for using either or both connectors, as needed; but feel far more secure, at 276 bar (4000 psi), using DIN . . .

 

[halocline]

I do think that yoke valves are likely more durable in situations like rental fleets in the Caribbean. There are no exposed threads and the valve head is a big thick flat piece of brass. There is a reason they have worked so well for decades in places like that.

Now I see lots of convertible valves in Cozumel, which is handy for DIN users but I've already seen, just on a few trips, problems getting the inserts out. Those are exposed threads, and if the inserts are not removed regularly after salt water use, good luck!

DIN tanks are great if they are well cared for, nice clean threads, no banging around, etc. I use them all the time in cave diving, they are less of an entanglement and there are fewer annoying slow leaks from bad o-rings.

So there's a real place for each valve type IMO.

 

[BoltSnap]

I have been using DIN valves and first stages since circa mid 80's for personal use without any issues except when the top of the valve was dented in a car crash which made it unusable for DIN or Yoke configurations few years ago. On the other hand, I have seen many issues with Yoke setups over the years in HP tanks with o'rings dislodging and losing air rapidly (in addition to the issues mentioned above). The yoke screw knob/wheel seems to be a favorite place for ropes and lines to wrap themselves around underwater.

 

[Pressurehead]

I have been a little 'gun shy' of yoke fittings since I was hit just below the right eye by an O ring blowing out [not my cylinder or regulator]. I was just attaching my regulator near by, and mine was yoke then as well, now DIN .
I know it's rare and does not happen often.
I still have yoke for travel [Mk10 G250s], DIN at home.

 

[eelnoraa]

This. Everything I have is DIN and has always been DIN, but the traveling and renting tanks or LOBs is a problem. I used the yoke converter for my regs for years, but was always annoyed by how long it made the first and how easy it was to hit your head on it. Eventually I bought the yoke bits and just flipped it back and forth for trips. That alleviates the long adapter problem, but still gets old after a few years. I eventually broke down and bought a separate reg for vacation/singles diving that just stays yoke.

Exactly my experience. I have separat set for travel/single( yoke) and local/ double(din)

If I were to start over, my single setup will be yoke. The pressure rating is a mood point for recreational. I have used see yoke on 3442psi tank all the time lower profile is also not an issue for rec. din with yoke adapter are a bigger hassle.

 

[eelnoraa]

View attachment 678117
Not all detachable yokes are created alike; some are better and more compact than others

DIN, dammit, DIN, heh, heh, heh . . .

1st stage is easily 1” closer to your head. Picures I snap 13 years ago.

native din.

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

Same reg with one of the lowest profile converter, same tank with yoke insert remove.

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

I don’t have an native yoke mk25. I only have native yoke AA. If anyone interested I can go snap a picture. But without doing that, I am positively sure it will be compatible to native din measurement.



Btw, the convertible valve which let you remove the yoke insert and become din, those are all 200bar din. We all use it with 3442 hp100, which is 235bar fill. For typical tank pressure, I think we can leave the pressure rating thing out of the discussion

 

[DDKL]

Could someone please take a picture of the schematic and torque specs that come with the current din conversion kit (square knob). I’m about to install one and want to ensure everything is here, in the right order and that I’m torquing appropriately! Thanks.

 

[halocline]

Could someone please take a picture of the schematic and torque specs that come with the current din conversion kit (square knob). I’m about to install one and want to ensure everything is here, in the right order and that I’m torquing appropriately! Thanks.

This is the newest one I have, but I'm sure the torque spec has not changed. It's very easy, the retainer o-ring is probably already installed on the retainer. Just remove the filter retainer, spring, and filter, then use a 7mm (I think) allen socket on your torque wrench, then re-install the filter, spring, filter retainer in that order. Don't have a long enough 7mm hex socket? Don't tell anyone, but I've installed these with a big allen key and some muscle. The torque spec in ft/lbs is around 22, it's not that tough to estimate. They need to be tight enough to not come loose, but not so tight as to damage the threads. The universal retainer has a shelf that prevents the splitting pressure that the older retainers could cause when severely over torqued, so there is some wiggle room. It's still best to use the torque wrench and hex socket.

 

[Ross19966]

I have a Sherwood 1st and 2nd that I bought as yoke but bought the DIN fitting and converted it to DIN. I'll carry the yoke in my bag just incase any charter operators don't have tanks with pro valves. My owned tanks are all newer convertible valves. The newer tanks with pro valves easily convert to either. I don't really see myself ever needing the yoke fitting. The exception would be if run up on older DIN tanks that can't convert to yoke.