Scubapro Mk25: To DIN or not to DIN?

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Any special instructions to change ScubaPro yoke to DIN? I have the DIN conversion kit. I will have the socket, torque wrench, and extension. Do you lubricate any of the O-rings? I know not to torque past 50 ft/pounds

I got a kick out of this. The torque spec is about 22 ftlbs, so you certainly better not exceed 50!

Do NOT over torque the DIN retainer. 266 in/lbs, which equals roughly 22ft/lbs.
 
ScubaPro (brand being discussed here) has a 3 part DIN assembly. A DIN "stem" is threaded into the first stage body. From there, the DIN hand-wheel is put on it, and a retainer is then threaded on the stem securing it. The hex key for the retainer is not the same size as the stem.

I may have confused an external nut on the body (different brand) and said crows-foot wrench. Yes, a larger and longer hex drive is needed to set the stem.
 
This. Everything I have is DIN and has always been DIN, but the traveling and renting tanks or LOBs is a problem. I used the yoke converter for my regs for years, but was always annoyed by how long it made the first and how easy it was to hit your head on it. Eventually I bought the yoke bits and just flipped it back and forth for trips. That alleviates the long adapter problem, but still gets old after a few years. I eventually broke down and bought a separate reg for vacation/singles diving that just stays yoke.


This is great, I couldn't agree more, and it would get old for me before the first time
 
ScubaPro (brand being discussed here) has a 3 part DIN assembly. A DIN "stem" is threaded into the first stage body. From there, the DIN hand-wheel is put on it, and a retainer is then threaded on the stem securing it. The hex key for the retainer is not the same size as the stem.

I may have confused an external nut on the body (different brand) and said crows-foot wrench. Yes, a larger and longer hex drive is needed to set the stem.

Right, for Scubapro you'd need two different allen sizes (can't remember which ones right now), but the first one is just the filter retainer and needs little torque, so an allen key should suffice and there is no need for the torque the 3/8 driver can apply. I know, famous last words, and next thing you know I'll have an overtorqued or corroded one in my hands... :)

I recently tried to unscrew a DIN stem out of an Atomic TI stage, and using an allen key it was impossible until I had it in a vise and extended the allen with a steel pipe (even after tapping and soaking). That's when I got the hex insert and driver. As Halocline said, that connection takes quite a bit of torque.
 
ScubaPro (brand being discussed here) has a 3 part DIN assembly. A DIN "stem" is threaded into the first stage body. From there, the DIN hand-wheel is put on it, and a retainer is then threaded on the stem securing it. The hex key for the retainer is not the same size as the stem.

Not exactly, the retainer holds the wheel in place and is secured with a 6MM allen socket. (It does need to be long enough to reach down past the filter cavity) So you put the wheel on the retainer, then thread it into the body and tighten to 22 ft lbs. The smaller fitting simply holds the filter in place; you drop in the filter, then a small spring, then the threaded cylinder. That one is a 4mm fitting and tightened to 35 in/lbs, which is no tighter than just snug with an allen key. All it does is hold the filter in place, and my guess is that SP went to this design to allow easy removal and replacement of the filter without removing the retainer. The old ones need to come out entirely in order to replace the filter.
 
Yep,, it is HOG....

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Might be Deep6 too.... Too many on my brain (and none in front of me)..

Thanks Robert! ( @couv )
 
If you’re not using 300 bar tanks why use din. It can’t be used on some tanks and others you have to take out the insert. Din is a bloody nuisance.
 
If you’re not using 300 bar tanks why use din. It can’t be used on some tanks and others you have to take out the insert. Din is a bloody nuisance.

DIN is the way to go without a doubt for me if using my own tanks and if the rental is DIN or has the insert. Removing the insert is usually no issue as long as the valve wasn't damaged.
 
DIN is the way to go without a doubt for me if using my own tanks and if the rental is DIN or has the insert. Removing the insert is usually no issue as long as the valve wasn't damaged.
Why is din the way to go? unless you’re tanks are 300 bar and even then the argument for din is spurious. With yoke you don’t have to worry about removing an insert which I’ve seen impossible to remove and some tanks with pillar valves are not din.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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