Rix SA-6 Parts

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Sorry Rob...didn't have time to take pics this time...
All good my friend, glad you got it worked out!

So you were able to remove belts, remove flywheel, remove head, diagnose, replace o rings and get all back together in 20 min?

Admittedly I haven't taken my heads off yet so I'm genuinely curious.
 
All good my friend, glad you got it worked out!

So you were able to remove belts, remove flywheel, remove head, diagnose, replace o rings and get all back together in 20 min?

Admittedly I haven't taken my heads off yet so I'm genuinely curious.
Pretty much... I DID NOT have to disassemble the entire head...was the o ring at the head/block that was bad...popped head off as a unit, changed o ring, reassembled.

Was amazed at the neat little trick for removing the belt drive wheel...2 allen head lockers out, swap one into the other hole, and bam!!! Pulley wheel was off. What a NEAT little piece of engineering. You can literally service this thing with a hex head wrench, screwdriver and adjustable wrench...what a fabiulouse piece of service based engineering. Best I've seen in my life... ( I'm 60, old school, and CONSTANTLY...bit#$%!@&^ about product engineering and the inability to service without 20K in special tooling and a 7 year degree)

Yeah...this thing is the cat's meow!!
 
OK, I've got to ask ... tricks for getting things tensioned AND realigned?

I figured they would have put in a pair of lateral tensioning bolts. On my gasser, there were no safe and convenient pry points that would easily allow both (with just 2 hands, an arm and a leg. :wink: ) I could get a turnbuckle type sheave-spreader and then just pry for alignment, but that seems like I'm missing something.
 
OK, I've got to ask ... tricks for getting things tensioned AND realigned?

I figured they would have put in a pair of lateral tensioning bolts. On my gasser, there were no safe and convenient pry points that would easily allow both (with just 2 hands, an arm and a leg. :wink: ) I could get a turnbuckle type sheave-spreader and then just pry for alignment, but that seems like I'm missing something.
I think the whole tensioning thing is about the mount plate...it's designed to swap between gas /electric, so it's up to you based on the motor/mounting choice. I have adopted a "set it and forget it" position re: belt tension... I mount engine, get it close tension wise, than make sure my belt alignment is on..than lock motor down. Belts will go on /off by manual rotation if your careful and use alittle stretch and still have decent tension. No need to put belts on pulleys than fight with tension while locking down mounting bolts.
 
When I switched from the gas engine my Rix came with to electric motor I purchased a mounting plate that has a tension adjustment screw. Still a bit of an issue with alignment but tension is easy.
 
Here you go. For your amusement and delight.
How not to cock up a Rix SA-6 compressor service. Don't loose the parts
And a self reminder to take it off the shipping crate before stripping it down.
And for you lot wear gloves. LOL

https://youtu.be/JLu5tP09zRA
Any chance since you're back from your hiatus we can get Service Inspection Report 4 (and maybe others?!?)

I know there's quite a few of us that would be super grateful to have an expert walk us through it:)
 
I have few sa6 blocks with common problem, the sleeves are really stuck . I thought of putting the block with the sleeves in the oven maybe the difference in material expansion will release it . thought of using press [beating is no good].
any experience / ideas?
 
I thought of putting the block with the sleeves in the oven
any experience / ideas?
First define what you mean by "putting it in the oven"
If you mean the square contraption in the kitchen that your wife uses to cook with then don't .
At best you will regret it, and at worse you will most certainly die.

You are bound to make a mistake leave some evidence behind and get found out or worse
she pops back in the house to find a oily compressor in parts on the kitchen table and the block gently cooking at 180C for 30 minutes and you wearing her apron with a sheep's grin on your face.

Better yet you forget to remove the main crankshaft and bearings and the swash plate bearing and rider bearings and 20 minutes later the grease inside is now oozing out the bearing cases dripping into her cooker and you forget to clean the mess up

Worse yet you forget to unscrew the two small dog tooth set screws under the block and the expanding aluminium block cracks over the case housing cos you forgot to remove them.

Either way the smell of cooking the bearing grease at 180C will evade the whole house with the resulting smell of a down town car repair chop shop and either way your dead.

Yeah I've had some experience ask my wife LOL. Iain
 
I have few sa6 blocks with common problem, the sleeves are really stuck . I thought of putting the block with the sleeves in the oven maybe the difference in material expansion will release it . thought of using press [beating is no good].
any experience / ideas?
I have never replaced any in my Rix but if I was faced with that problem I would cobble together some kind of puller, maybe using a disc fractionally smaller than the outside diameter of the sleeve pulled by a threaded rod with a tube larger than the outside diameter at the other end. I would also put ice in the sleeve when I went to remove it. I used this idea to remove a stuck sleeve bearing in something else using iron plumbing fittings for some of the parts.
 
First define what you mean by "putting it in the oven"
If you mean the square contraption in the kitchen that your wife uses to cook with then don't .
At best you will regret it, and at worse you will most certainly die.

You are bound to make a mistake leave some evidence behind and get found out or worse
she pops back in the house to find a oily compressor in parts on the kitchen table and the block gently cooking at 180C for 30 minutes and you wearing her apron with a sheep's grin on your face.

Better yet you forget to remove the main crankshaft and bearings and the swash plate bearing and rider bearings and 20 minutes later the grease inside is now oozing out the bearing cases dripping into her cooker and you forget to clean the mess up

Worse yet you forget to unscrew the two small dog tooth set screws under the block and the expanding aluminium block cracks over the case housing cos you forgot to remove them.

Either way the smell of cooking the bearing grease at 180C will evade the whole house with the resulting smell of a down town car repair chop shop and either way your dead.

Yeah I've had some experience ask my wife LOL. Iain
Well you are right, the block is naked and cleaned with acid and degreaser. But the fact you trued it says a lot. So was it succesfull? Obviusly cheeling
First define what you mean by "putting it in the oven"
If you mean the square contraption in the kitchen that your wife uses to cook with then don't .
At best you will regret it, and at worse you will most certainly die.

You are bound to make a mistake leave some evidence behind and get found out or worse
she pops back in the house to find a oily compressor in parts on the kitchen table and the block gently cooking at 180C for 30 minutes and you wearing her apron with a sheep's grin on your face.

Better yet you forget to remove the main crankshaft and bearings and the swash plate bearing and rider bearings and 20 minutes later the grease inside is now oozing out the bearing cases dripping into her cooker and you forget to clean the mess up

Worse yet you forget to unscrew the two small dog tooth set screws under the block and the expanding aluminium block cracks over the case housing cos you forgot to remove them.

Either way the smell of cooking the bearing grease at 180C will evade the whole house with the resulting smell of a down town car repair chop shop and either way your dead.

Yeah I've had some experience ask my wife LOL. Iain
The
First define what you mean by "putting it in the oven"
If you mean the square contraption in the kitchen that your wife uses to cook with then don't .
At best you will regret it, and at worse you will most certainly die.

You are bound to make a mistake leave some evidence behind and get found out or worse
she pops back in the house to find a oily compressor in parts on the kitchen table and the block gently cooking at 180C for 30 minutes and you wearing her apron with a sheep's grin on your face.

Better yet you forget to remove the main crankshaft and bearings and the swash plate bearing and rider bearings and 20 minutes later the grease inside is now oozing out the bearing cases dripping into her cooker and you forget to clean the mess up

Worse yet you forget to unscrew the two small dog tooth set screws under the block and the expanding aluminium block cracks over the case housing cos you forgot to remove them.

Either way the smell of cooking the bearing grease at 180C will evade the whole house with the resulting smell of a down town car repair chop shop and either way your dead.

Yeah I've had some experience ask my wife LOL. Iain
well , first nice to hear from you lain... we were afraid you where kidnaped... you reminded me long time ago when I repaired my bike gear and I used to bring to the house all the tools and take them back to the storage an hour before my wife returned... hahaha she didn't understand how come the house is clean but smells like a garage. as for the Rix blocks, of course they are striped down without the main shaft and bearings . also cleaned with acid.
so , if you tried it yourself I'm going in good direction, putting something cold in the sleeve after it was warmed seems to be a good idea too. so, 180c? 300?
ha one more thing, when I'll put the sleeve back I intend to use ceramic grease or heavy Kluber [something I have for the bike clutch and driveshaft splines ], but how can you put grease without the sleeve wiping it into itself???
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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