Rix SA-6 Parts

[1bubbleoff]

6.4.5 CYLINDERS. All cylinders can be extracted by removing the pistons, unbolting the cylinder heads, and sliding the cylinder sleeves out. The cylinder bores should be free from pits or scoring as this will cause accelerated ring wear and blow-by. The top surface of each cylinder acts as a pressure seal area and should be handled carefully and replaced if damaged When reassembling, a high temperature heat conducting grease similar to Nev-RSeeZ compound should be applied between the cylinder liner and the cylinder housing. This aids in cooling the cylinder and prevents galvanic corrosion. The cylinder bore should always be kept clean and free from any greases or oils.

 

[Golan68]

6.4.5 CYLINDERS. All cylinders can be extracted by removing the pistons, unbolting the cylinder heads, and sliding the cylinder sleeves out. The cylinder bores should be free from pits or scoring as this will cause accelerated ring wear and blow-by. The top surface of each cylinder acts as a pressure seal area and should be handled carefully and replaced if damaged When reassembling, a high temperature heat conducting grease similar to Nev-RSeeZ compound should be applied between the cylinder liner and the cylinder housing. This aids in cooling the cylinder and prevents galvanic corrosion. The cylinder bore should always be kept clean and free from any greases or oils.

thanks for taking the time to answer, but as said, they are stuck . it's not a place where you can put too much force because the sleeves are delicate. as for the conductive grease, well, it's not simple, when you'll push the sleeve into the block the tight fit will wipe the grease and the extra will "pollute" the surrounding. so, my solution [that I didn't try yet but soon will] is to smear the grease on the outside of the sleeve at the first third so while pushing it in it will spread evenly and before pushing the last third whip the extra from the head side at do the rest. that explain why I found on the ones I managed only to extract, only small area covered with old grease and why it's stuck so hard.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

thanks for taking the time to answer, but as said, they are stuck . it's not a place where you can put too much force because the sleeves are delicate. as for the conductive grease, well, it's not simple, when you'll push the sleeve into the block the tight fit will wipe the grease and the extra will "pollute" the surrounding. so, my solution [that I didn't try yet but soon will] is to smear the grease on the outside of the sleeve at the first third so while pushing it in it will spread evenly and before pushing the last third whip the extra from the head side at do the rest. that explain why I found on the ones I managed only to extract, only small area covered with old grease and why it's stuck so hard.

Can you post some pictures of where you're at? I work at a shop with a really smart guy who has worked on cylinders and pistons his whole life... he might have an idea.

I didn't see why you wanted / needed to remove them? Is there something wrong, or you're just rebuilding 100%?

 

[Geo7]

If even Golan is asking for tips here, it must be very stuck. He is refurbishing 100%.

How much are the sleeves? I received a steel mountain bike with a stuck aluminum post as a gift once, and we had to mill out the aluminum post and destroy it in the process.

Or what about using those car cleaning services that spray dry ice into the engine bay? Perhaps that could supercool the sleeves to hammer them out? Or liquid nitrogen...

 

[rob.mwpropane]

@Golan68 any pics to post? I'd love to see where you're at.

I have an email I can shoot you in a PM if that would be easier? I think our current limit is 1 pic these days?

 

[iain/hsm]

thanks for taking the time to answer, but as said, they are stuck . it's not a place where you can put too much force because the sleeves are delicate. as for the conductive grease, well, it's not simple, when you'll push the sleeve into the block the tight fit will wipe the grease and the extra will "pollute" the surrounding. so, my solution [that I didn't try yet but soon will] is to smear the grease on the outside of the sleeve at the first third so while pushing it in it will spread evenly and before pushing the last third whip the extra from the head side at do the rest. that explain why I found on the ones I managed only to extract, only small area covered with old grease and why it's stuck so hard.

To sort this problem out will cost you heavy at a guess $300

The solution is easy its the consequence that's a little tricky.
First drop the bare open block (heads up) into a ordinary kitchen oven and heat for 20 to 30 minutes at 180C ideal if you have removed the swash plate bearing, the thrust rider bearings and the crankshaft with bearings.
Then wearing a pair of oven proof gloves turn the block over now head down and drop outside onto a wooden board and stages one and two should all drop out nicely
Stage 3 is the tough one it may need a small wooden dowel or drift, thin wooden broom handles have
been know to work.

Oh and the $300 is for the wife to go and do a bit of dress shopping you can take her out to a restaurant and she needs a new dress. This should give you enough time for the block to cool and to clean up the evidence before she gets back.