Rix SA-6 Parts

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

rob.mwpropane

ScubaBoard Supporter
ScubaBoard Supporter
Messages
4,742
Reaction score
4,825
Location
Fallston, Maryland
Good day all. In reference to this post by lain I'd like to purchase the expansion o rings. I was wondering if anyone has done this and if you would recommend replacing the rider rings or the compression rings while "in there"? Is there anywhere I can purchase just a few o rings? I am under the assumption that Rix wants a minimum order. I have read that Rix disguises their o ring part #'s with a few extra or less #'s, but I am not an o ring guru, so I don't know how to match them. @Zef you're pretty good with o rings.. do these #'s below make any sense? I believe it's just regular viton 90 duro. @rsingler I was told you might own a Rix? Or have in the past? You're a wizard with all things scuba.. maybe you have some wisdom?

I have a minor issue with some blow by coming from the bottom of the 2nd stage. It's been like this since I aquired the compressor 2 years ago. Not a lot, doesn't seem to be getting worse but enough I want to do something about it. I need to give it some TLC so she'll last for years to come.

One other point worth consideration is to occasionallly remove the centre bolt and to turn the inner bearing race (the siiver inner part) 30/60/90 or 180 degrees. this presents a "fresh face" to the backside of the rod end bearing housing and ensures even wear over the entire inner race as opposed to wearing just one "face" Contact Area" and allowing excessive wear in one point (at the opposite end from the piston rod) By rotating the race a bit at a time you extend the life of an quite expensive part.

I would NOT do it every 10 or 25 hours but certainley take a look at 50 and while your at it clean the whole inner race of the rod end bearing and check for wear areas..

Now here is the kicker.
DO NOT yank (remove) the whole piston assembly out of the liners, your just cleaning the end bearings, but if you do, dont yank the thing out and be careful not to get grease onto the compression rings.

Then while you are at it you may as well just replace the piston 0-rings behind the compression rings just on the 1st and 2nd stage (NOT the 3rd) Doing this will extend you compression ring life. Dont do it on the 3rd stage you will damage the rings more by removing them. Just the 1st and 2nd.

Doing this also help reduce blow by and increases the interstage pressure thus reducing the compression ratio, reducing heat and increasing flow rate.

Also if you do just change the 0-rings out and put back the old compression rings also check the 0-rings for "scuffing" if you see too much scuffing your not changing them enough conversly when you stop seeing scuffing your changing them too often.

The o ring part #'s from Rix are;

1st Stage -
123-230-5

2nd Stage -
123-210-5
123-313-5

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have yet to find anyone that has a vast supply of pictures inside the Rix.
 
Without a visual or any knowledge of the o-rings used in your compressor I don’t have a recommendation other than to look at websites like the following:


They have sizes 230, 235, and 313 but I have no idea if they marry up with your application.

Sorry.
-Z
 
@rob.mwpropane responding here vs. PM so it's public. like @Zef said I believe they are 230/210/313 o-rings but you can measure them. I don't have a pump reasonably close or I would measure mine but they're both in Florida right now. Easy enough and cheap enough to buy them from Sterling on Amazon and check. You can also check prior to purchase by removing them and measuring, if the measurements are close enough then that is likely the o-ring size.
 
@rob.mwpropane responding here vs. PM so it's public. like @Zef said I believe they are 230/210/313 o-rings but you can measure them. I don't have a pump reasonably close or I would measure mine but they're both in Florida right now. Easy enough and cheap enough to buy them from Sterling on Amazon and check. You can also check prior to purchase by removing them and measuring, if the measurements are close enough then that is likely the o-ring size.

@SurfLung responded to a pm. He's rebuilt his a few times and said that the o rings he sourced (even though they should have been the same) didn't work as expected. He also mentioned it's worth replacing both the compression and rider rings while at it.

Where in the US can I order Rix parts from? I believe there was a thread on here mentioning where but I can't find it.
 
@SurfLung responded to a pm. He's rebuilt his a few times and said that the o rings he sourced (even though they should have been the same) didn't work as expected. He also mentioned it's worth replacing both the compression and rider rings while at it.

Where in the US can I order Rix parts from? I believe there was a thread on here mentioning where but I can't find it.
You can order from Rix directly. They're quite used to helping guys like us and they're easy to deal with.
 
I maintained a RIx 4VX-24-O2???? something like that!

(Short Story) As Tbone said call RIX they are great to deal with. Yes replace all rings while it is apart!!! Save the old for emergency. Or better yet/if you have the money. Buy spares. No minimum back then!!!

(Long story)
What I went through to order parts was: First get the schematic for your model. (Be prepared with your model and serial number ready) Write down all the parts that you want then I received a spreadsheet with all the part numbers. Each item was individual. If I needed 8 rings for the 4th stage you order 8 of the part number. If there is a backing o-ring you must order it. It does not come with it! With a few exceptions, there are no kits. Be prepared to pay!!!

That said. I was very fortunate to have a Parker Fluid and Air store 3 blocks from the dive shop. (Fluid Connector I believe) So I could walk in with an o-ring and they would measure it with calipers to know the correct size if it was still in good condition. Durometer was a different story. They did not have an instrument to measure it. After a time of ordering and squeezing o-rings (I know, Not scientific) I could feel the difference. I did not buy any parts for the RIX however. Because it was a dive shop I bought the factory stuff. Tank o-rings and stuff you bet! I think that I was paying $0.06 for a Nitrile tank o-ring and $0.15 for a Viton.

I had to replace the compressor because the cooling lines between 2nd and 3rd stage developed pin holes. RIX wanted $5500 for one set. there were 4 sets. one could buy a new compressor for $22,000. Bought a used Ingersoll Rand.

Lastly I must say that I love RIX compressors. If money is not an issue. I ended up getting a Bauer Jr. II for my personal use due to cost and not finding an SA-6. SA stands for "Sweet Air" and after using "Sweet Air" for 10 years I can taste the difference in the air from an oil type compressor! Man did I have it good. And did not know it!!!

I stand corrected! $150 minimum order!


 
I maintained a RIx 4VX-24-O2???? something like that!

(Short Story) As Tbone said call RIX they are great to deal with. Yes replace all rings while it is apart!!! Save the old for emergency. Or better yet/if you have the money. Buy spares. No minimum back then!!!

(Long story)
What I went through to order parts was: First get the schematic for your model. (Be prepared with your model and serial number ready) Write down all the parts that you want then I received a spreadsheet with all the part numbers. Each item was individual. If I needed 8 rings for the 4th stage you order 8 of the part number. If there is a backing o-ring you must order it. It does not come with it! With a few exceptions, there are no kits. Be prepared to pay!!!

That said. I was very fortunate to have a Parker Fluid and Air store 3 blocks from the dive shop. (Fluid Connector I believe) So I could walk in with an o-ring and they would measure it with calipers to know the correct size if it was still in good condition. Durometer was a different story. They did not have an instrument to measure it. After a time of ordering and squeezing o-rings (I know, Not scientific) I could feel the difference. I did not buy any parts for the RIX however. Because it was a dive shop I bought the factory stuff. Tank o-rings and stuff you bet! I think that I was paying $0.06 for a Nitrile tank o-ring and $0.15 for a Viton.

I had to replace the compressor because the cooling lines between 2nd and 3rd stage developed pin holes. RIX wanted $5500 for one set. there were 4 sets. one could buy a new compressor for $22,000. Bought a used Ingersoll Rand.

Lastly I must say that I love RIX compressors. If money is not an issue. I ended up getting a Bauer Jr. II for my personal use due to cost and not finding an SA-6. SA stands for "Sweet Air" and after using "Sweet Air" for 10 years I can taste the difference in the air from an oil type compressor! Man did I have it good. And did not know it!!!

I stand corrected! $150 minimum order!


Thanks for the insight. I am learning more every day. From what I understand there are 3 models. The SA-6, SA-6A, and SA-6B. Each revision has improvements. Mine is an SA-6B. Dual belts, stainless cooling lines, stainless heads, 8 fin fan blade. I'm not sure why you wouldn't have tried to fabricate cooling lines out of ss line? I can't imagine it would be that hard?

I just need to call Rix and order the parts. If it wasn't for the little bit of blow by from the 2nd stage I would say it runs perfect. I time it every once in a while and I'm always right on the money @ 5cfm, maybe a hair more.

I have my fingers crossed that what little bit I do use it I hope I can make it last for years to come. For the month of December I only pumped 540cf of air, so it should be able to last. So far it's been one of the most convenient investments I've made.
 
Rob I love the way you think!
I did estimate the cost of fabricating new cooling lines.

The stainless steel cooling lines are straight. Almost 4 feet long and wrapped with an aluminum fin material. I sourced the tubing but as I was not a high volume buyer. I was quoted $750 for the tubing. I thought about just using bare SS tubing (Much less money) with no fin which I believe would be fine. There were 12 of these TIG welded into a 2" SS block. So it would involve drilling out the old tubes, fitting the new tubes, TIG welding them in and possibly milling the surface flat to mate with the output block if it warped during welding! Oh and we are out of compressed air for the students!

But alas I had to think about the future of the shop the compressor was 30 years old. When I telephoned RIX and gave them the serial number They would have to go to a FILING cabinet to get the specifications it was that old. AND most importantly........ I had not learned what an amazing thing oil-less Sweet Air was!!! 99% of the air I used was from that compressor! It is very easy to be on vacation scuba diving in the tropics and get a little taste in your air and say OH they need to change there filter!

At this point let me stop and say that I have very sensitive taste and smell! I was on a dive in Loretto Baja Mexico and the oil in the air was so bad I felt like they were getting used oil from a donut factory, putting it in a compressor with worn out rings and forgot to put the filter back in the housing. I asked the other divers if they tasted anything and they all said they did not taste it. It was not just 1 tank either!

(Back to it) So I found the shop a nearly new Ingersoll Rand 15T4X20 compressor. I was going to try and keep the RIX but the guy offered the shop a trade in allowance on the RIX. So all in all the shop paid about $6500 for a 20 CFM compressor We already had the filters and kept them. Just in case you are wondering. I built a custom flushing adapter, (Used a New garden sprayer) and mixed hot water and Oxygen cleaning solution and flushed all the lines before installing the new compressor.

If cost is not a factor. And cost is a factor with RIX! I absolutely love the sweet air from the Oil-free RIX !!!

There is a guy in Orlando FL that has several SA-6 with a Yanmar Diesel motor. He has had them for a long time and he wants $5500 each. (ebay, search RIX) In comparison I paid $1500 for my used Bauer Jr. II Again if money was no object I would make the guy an offer on 2 of them, sell the Yanmars and build my dream compressor (Electric)
 
Rob I love the way you think!
I did estimate the cost of fabricating new cooling lines.

The stainless steel cooling lines are straight. Almost 4 feet long and wrapped with an aluminum fin material. I sourced the tubing but as I was not a high volume buyer. I was quoted $750 for the tubing. I thought about just using bare SS tubing (Much less money) with no fin which I believe would be fine. There were 12 of these TIG welded into a 2" SS block. So it would involve drilling out the old tubes, fitting the new tubes, TIG welding them in and possibly milling the surface flat to mate with the output block if it warped during welding! Oh and we are out of compressed air for the students!

But alas I had to think about the future of the shop the compressor was 30 years old. When I telephoned RIX and gave them the serial number They would have to go to a FILING cabinet to get the specifications it was that old. AND most importantly........ I had not learned what an amazing thing oil-less Sweet Air was!!! 99% of the air I used was from that compressor! It is very easy to be on vacation scuba diving in the tropics and get a little taste in your air and say OH they need to change there filter!

At this point let me stop and say that I have very sensitive taste and smell! I was on a dive in Loretto Baja Mexico and the oil in the air was so bad I felt like they were getting used oil from a donut factory, putting it in a compressor with worn out rings and forgot to put the filter back in the housing. I asked the other divers if they tasted anything and they all said they did not taste it. It was not just 1 tank either!

(Back to it) So I found the shop a nearly new Ingersoll Rand 15T4X20 compressor. I was going to try and keep the RIX but the guy offered the shop a trade in allowance on the RIX. So all in all the shop paid about $6500 for a 20 CFM compressor We already had the filters and kept them. Just in case you are wondering. I built a custom flushing adapter, (Used a New garden sprayer) and mixed hot water and Oxygen cleaning solution and flushed all the lines before installing the new compressor.

If cost is not a factor. And cost is a factor with RIX! I absolutely love the sweet air from the Oil-free RIX !!!

There is a guy in Orlando FL that has several SA-6 with a Yanmar Diesel motor. He has had them for a long time and he wants $5500 each. (ebay, search RIX) In comparison I paid $1500 for my used Bauer Jr. II Again if money was no object I would make the guy an offer on 2 of them, sell the Yanmars and build my dream compressor (Electric)

Wow, cool story.

My Rix is much newer than that, lol. The lines are just SS, no fins.

I bought it for $2400 back in Oct. of 2020 (from a guy in FL of all places). Even if I have to invest $2-300 into it to refresh the 1st and 2nd stage rings I think (hope) I'm in good shape for a long time to come. Everything else runs and acts perfect.

I love my Rix.. but it's not what I would use in a dive shop. I have read in multiple places that it's such a cool little compressor for a hobbyist, but just not something that you'd want to run all day every day.

I have a bank system and a few bottles, what I'd really like to do is get everything setup to where I'm just running the Rix for ~ 30 or 45 min a day and keeping those topped off so I have plenty of air whenever I need. I'm close to being there, just need to plumb in the compressor. Hopefully this would save the life of the rings as there would never be an extended period of time that I would be running the compressor.. idk. We'll see.

I have also had a shop or 2 give me "oily" gas. Not pleasant at all!!
 
I have had to fabricate new cooling line for many different compressors over the year. The finned lines are to maximize heat dissipation in a small area. Size is important in a portable compressor. There are spreadsheets to calculate the heat shed in a finned line vs smooth stainless. You can replace the finned line with smooth, but it will need to be much much longer. On a fixed compressor, it isn't an issue. On a portable machine, it is a huge issue. I have extended intercooler lines on fixed compressors to run them through a water bath in tropical locations, it is an excellent way to shed heat when you are directly on the ocean.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

Back
Top Bottom