Rix SA-6 Parts

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Doesn't look that complicated, brass tube with probably an internal taper one end and an external taper the other end for registration.
 
I was wondering about this. I was hoping @iain/hsm could chime in on this. (Must be on Holiday! LOL) I had one for the 4VX and you simply tap the piston in through the taper in the top and when the piston starts out the bottom you set it in the top of the cylinder and use a hardwood dowel to push it into the cylinder! It makes it so easy!

@rob.mwpropane Don't you have a lathe at work or a machinist? Mine was turned out of aluminum. But then anodized.
 
grf...

I'm gonna send Rob one of my 3rd stage "storage" tube tools...he will get the measurments. Maybe between the 2 of ya's you can figure out a way to turn a few dozen out and save the rix guys a bunch of coin...who knows.

Bubs
 
grf...

I'm gonna send Rob one of my 3rd stage "storage" tube tools...he will get the measurments. Maybe between the 2 of ya's you can figure out a way to turn a few dozen out and save the rix guys a bunch of coin...who knows.

Bubs
Thanks for your help in this.
 
Don't forget that the 3rd stage piston has to go in the correct way up! The holes in the piston pick up the air pressure and push out the expander o-ring!

I made that mistake once. It works ok at first but rather quickly stops producing air!
 
Don't forget that the 3rd stage piston has to go in the correct way up! The holes in the piston pick up the air pressure and push out the expander o-ring!

I made that mistake once. It works ok at first but rather quickly stops producing air!

I believe one end is flat while the other has a cone for the follower to push against. I'm not sure if yours had that?
 

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the thired stage piston is soft and gets banged from behind , so you should take into account the you'll probably will need to replace it. as for the tube, it also plays as a tool to install the rings [as by the manual]. from one of the blocks I dissasmbeled I found that the bearings are bad only when I isolated them. so check them the best you can
 
the thired stage piston is soft and gets banged from behind , so you should take into account the you'll probably will need to replace it. as for the tube, it also plays as a tool to install the rings [as by the manual]. from one of the blocks I dissasmbeled I found that the bearings are bad only when I isolated them. so check them the best you can

I have seen older models without pressure maintaining valves on them.. in that case I would imagine the 3rd stage gets banged around quite a bit.

Easy enough way to measure that;

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I've been woundering lately about the free play of the rod ends, well, after few strokes the second and third stage get pressurized air, that means the "free play" plays no rule. on the other end it gives more room for grease. so, accept for teh 1st stage that actully sucks air and free play actully means less air, in the 2nd and 3rd it just means adjustment [backlash canceling]. am I missing something here?
 
I've been woundering lately about the free play of the rod ends, well, after few strokes the second and third stage get pressurized air, that means the "free play" plays no rule. on the other end it gives more room for grease. so, accept for teh 1st stage that actully sucks air and free play actully means less air, in the 2nd and 3rd it just means adjustment [backlash canceling]. am I missing something here?
Free play as in the rods at the bottom of the piston attached to the swash plate? The play between the 2 guide pins?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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