Rix SA-6 Parts

[iain/hsm]

Just a little light reading for you all for putting up with my ramblings.
Enclosed below the Rix SA-6B manual for the serial number given earlier.

It's the American manual for the standard build so as near as I can get to what you all have.
The Military Field Service Manual is IMHO a much better document for self service but its European for the French et al and its all in metric and mm with newtons for the torque settings and nominal cubic metres for the flow degrees and pascal for pressure

 

[rob.mwpropane]

Just a little light reading for you all for putting up with my ramblings.
Enclosed below the Rix SA-6B manual for the serial number given earlier.

It's the American manual for the standard build so as near as I can get to what you all have.
The Military Field Service Manual is IMHO a much better document for self service but its European for the French et al and its all in metric and mm with newtons for the torque settings and nominal cubic metres for the flow degrees and pascal for pressure

Can you post the Military Field Service Manual anyway? I'm sure we could convert if it's indeed better.

I had heard that you had your own personal manual that you had mentioned sharing before... is that possible or is it still classified?

 

[grf88]

Just a little light reading for you all for putting up with my ramblings.
Enclosed below the Rix SA-6B manual for the serial number given earlier.

It's the American manual for the standard build so as near as I can get to what you all have.
The Military Field Service Manual is IMHO a much better document for self service but its European for the French et al and its all in metric and mm with newtons for the torque settings and nominal cubic metres for the flow degrees and pascal for pressure

Thanks for posting this.

 

[iain/hsm]

Can you post the Military Field Service Manual anyway? I'm sure we could convert if it's indeed better.

I had heard that you had your own personal manual that you had mentioned sharing before... is that possible or is it still classified?

Not really and for many reasons. It's not classified as such I'm not that important although I did write both the manuals. But the manuals were with the project making them technically not mine to hand out. Also the content contains a little information I cannot disclose. But the manual were in part to also utilise parts lying around from other military kits in case of emergency, for example.
Take the photo of the 2nd stage piston I posted. From the must fix need to fix now (Field) position only the piston itself and the the polymer rings are critical parts. The 0-rings you can rob off a nitrogen service trolly, the con rod you can use a tie bar off another spares kit and cut it down with a hacksaw etc etc The O-rings you can use any 210 or 313 O-ring material that will fit and get it going for a short period. And for the piston itself you can turn that off in 15 minutes with any brass bronze or metal bar laying around in any military workshop on land or sea. Use the compressor in the field then return it to its base depot for a proper service using correct tested parts.

The caveat is when these field builds having been returned to the various military depots get sold off to these auction houses and bought up by some guy by the dozen who pumps them out on E-Bay and the like for them to get into the hands of my fellow divers. You see the point, JUST SAYING Iain

 

[rob.mwpropane]

Not really and for many reasons. It's not classified as such I'm not that important although I did write both the manuals. But the manuals were with the project making them technically not mine to hand out. Also the content contains a little information I cannot disclose. But the manual were in part to also utilise parts lying around from other military kits in case of emergency, for example.
Take the photo of the 2nd stage piston I posted. From the must fix need to fix now (Field) position only the piston itself and the the polymer rings are critical parts. The 0-rings you can rob off a nitrogen service trolly, the con rod you can use a tie bar off another spares kit and cut it down with a hacksaw etc etc The O-rings you can use any 210 or 313 O-ring material that will fit and get it going for a short period. And for the piston itself you can turn that off in 15 minutes with any brass bronze or metal bar laying around in any military workshop on land or sea. Use the compressor in the field then return it to its base depot for a proper service using correct tested parts.

The caveat is when these field builds having been returned to the various military depots get sold off to these auction houses and bought up by some guy by the dozen who pumps them out on E-Bay and the like for them to get into the hands of my fellow divers. You see the point, JUST SAYING Iain

Completely understood.. I don't really have any interest in using off the wall parts. I think I'll stick withthe right stuff.. no intention of going to war with the thing or hauling it through the jungle anytime soon and trying to use bamboo as a piston or bubble gum as a seal

Do you have any pictures of the heads taken apart? I have a pretty good idea (I think) aboutwhat everything else looks like inside, now I just need to wrap my brain around the heads.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

A better pic of my fan blade from the front.

My sn is 12509 if that matters. I know it will when I call for parts.




Also, @iain/hsm when you find a minute since you've been so great with pictures, if you could respond to my previous post;

Do you have any pictures of the heads taken apart you can share?

 

[iain/hsm]

Do you have any pictures of the heads taken apart? I have a pretty good idea (I think) aboutwhat everything else looks like inside, now I just need to wrap my brain around the heads.

Yes not a problem when back at the works. What stage you need.
Servicing the heads is a piece of cake, I can go through each one at a time if you like
and list the parts needed (o-rings 3 in each head for 1 & 2. A gasket and one O-ring in the 1st

The valve bodies can be re lapped with your 600 and 1200 grit on a glass plate for flatness are the valves themselves the reeds can be lapped as well
Service life of the reed valves is max 3000 hours they can be turned at 1500 lap every 1000 hours
The valve plate life is pretty much indefinite if you hand lap gently and flat
The valve 0-rings change every 1000 hours

The piston rings life are 1000 hours for the 1st stage
500 to 800 hours on the second stage
3rd Stage piston rings run 150 to 250 hours on the 3rd stage @ 350 to 250 BarG

Fit a gauge on the 2nd stage to avoid blow by and reduce life
Change the head O-rings on the blank plugs from black Viton to White Teflon
Fit a couple of soft copper "Seco SAE cone seals" to the 1st stage cooling coil
Keep a set of O-rings spare and don't be shy in using them
Keep 2 extra O-rings for the 1st stage Head as I bet you will loose a tail outside the head to liner and split it when you tighten the head.
Change the 3rd stage head rings every time you take the head off and if you change the piston rings more often on all of the stages then the more expensive piston rings will last much longer.

 

[iain/hsm]

Don't know if the forum can accept video (from a Mac) I will post it and try
But this is our service engineer report (raw) for Serial number 12840 as it's the nearest I can find in serial numbers to yours.
Its a basic first strip down and observation report for the client as we do on all the compressors
when in for service.

Edit nope its a 300mb file and 4 minutes long. Heck just don't tell me its going to be You Tube that will be a first.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

Don't know if the forum can accept video (from a Mac) I will post it and try
But this is our service engineer report (raw) for Serial number 12840 as it's the nearest I can find in serial numbers to yours.
Its a basic first strip down and observation report for the client as we do on all the compressors
when in for service.

Edit nope its a 300mb file and 4 minutes long. Heck just don't tell me its going to be You Tube that will be a first.

You can upload it to a private database like dropbox and share a link... no you tube needed, lol.

And that's free.

 

[grf88]

I am confident that I am only one of many Rix owners that would love to see such a video. Would very much appreciate it if it could be posted somewhere.