rEvo modifications, tweaks and customisations
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I am not sure if it is a rEvo mod, but as I dive rEvo, I'll post it here.
This little thing is a portable fan that you can use to dry the lungs / O2 sensors between the dives:
The fan can run for 20 hours at the lowest setting which is plenty for gentle breeze. It will provide enough airflow to assist drying, but won't damage the components.
This little thing is a portable fan that you can use to dry the lungs / O2 sensors between the dives:
The fan can run for 20 hours at the lowest setting which is plenty for gentle breeze. It will provide enough airflow to assist drying, but won't damage the components.
I guess I'm a little late to this party, but my rEvos have a few mods.
- Replaced SPGs with Grey and Green AI transmitters run up under the top tray.
- NERD2, which displays AI transmitters. A setup which PROVED its worth (to me) recently. More below.
- I used 1 splitter for a long time, so that I had 2 O2 sensors dedicated to the controller, 2 dedicated to the NERD, and 1 sensor shared between the controller and NERD. So, each showed 3 sensors. A year or so ago, a very experienced rEvo instructor talked me through it and I became convinced to ditch the splitter and just run with 2 sensors connected to my NERD. I now feel like this is the best option (for me, anyway) and it yielded the bonus of freeing up one spot in my Center Row on my NERD, which I now use with the new(-ish) 3-item widget that Shearwater added to the NERD firmware a little while back. So, my 3rd spot in the Center Row of my NERD shows O2 cylinder pressure, Dil cylinder pressure, and SurfGF.
- True one piece 2" webbing harness, still using the standard rEvo top and bottom back plate pieces. No QR or other type of buckles at all. In my experience with one-piece (aka Hogarthian) harnesses for single tank, back mount doubles, and CCR, when it is setup correctly, there is no need for any kind of quick release or quick adjust components. Generally, that means the shoulder straps are much looser than what people initially expect.
- rEvo factory stand with 75mm standoffs on my main unit. Someone posted that the factory stand is titanium. Maybe they have that now, but mine is stainless. Don Six stand on my second unit. Both stands are great and have pros and cons.
Don's website for his stands: Home
The Don Six stand is lighter.
The Don Six stand is rectangular, so it does not have rings on the sides extending forward and poking into my waist. I'm a bigger guy - wider than the factory stand was clearly designed to accommodate.
The factory stand is more convenient for air travel. One hex wrench is all that's required to remove the factory stand base and pack in with the unit, to put back on at my destination.
The Don Six stand is taller than how I have my factory stand setup. I like the extra height. I don't have my factory stand setup that tall because of the sides that poke me. Having the stand extend down further had the sides poking me in my butt cheeks, instead of my waist, which was less comfortable.
The Don Six stand is more convenient for using to store stuff inside it. E.g. you can easily put a pouch holding a lift bag.
- Dive Rite Nomad XT wing. Not the Nomad CCR wing - the Nomad sidemount wing. I almost never dive with any lead added and I have no trouble achieving good flat trim with no sculling required. I attribute this to the shape of the wing and where it distributes lift (i.e. lower, closer to my hips, counteracting the inherent tail heaviness).
Fitting this wing works with the standard back plate pieces, but it requires cannibalizing the Nomad so that it will never go back to being a sidemount rig again. You have to remove the soft backplate that is attached to the wing with grommets.
- rEvo BOV on my primary unit, but I'm planning to switch back to a standard DSV with Cooper hoses as soon as I make some maintenance time at home.
- spiral wrap on my controller and NERD cords, for protection from cuts and abrasions. A friend that dives a Meg recently had to have a new head and controller because the sheath on the controller cable got a cut in it and water seeped through that all the way into both ends.
What I used:
- Split crotch strap. I've been using the Zeagle one for a few years, but I really don't like it. It was just what was on my unit when I bought my first one. I recently got new one from Cave Adventurers, which I will be changing both my units to. I haven't used them yet, but their design addresses my two main complaints with the Zeagle. I.e. they have no plastic buckles, and they have a sewn-in scooter ring.
www.caveadventurers.com
- Vortex Rifle Scope flip cap on my NERD. There is another brand some people use but the Vortex one specifically says its spring is stainless, so I use that. The O-24 size seems questionable on paper regarding whether it is big enough for the NERD, but it is.
******************************************************
I made a separate post about my AI:
scubaboard.com
- Replaced SPGs with Grey and Green AI transmitters run up under the top tray.
- NERD2, which displays AI transmitters. A setup which PROVED its worth (to me) recently. More below.
- I used 1 splitter for a long time, so that I had 2 O2 sensors dedicated to the controller, 2 dedicated to the NERD, and 1 sensor shared between the controller and NERD. So, each showed 3 sensors. A year or so ago, a very experienced rEvo instructor talked me through it and I became convinced to ditch the splitter and just run with 2 sensors connected to my NERD. I now feel like this is the best option (for me, anyway) and it yielded the bonus of freeing up one spot in my Center Row on my NERD, which I now use with the new(-ish) 3-item widget that Shearwater added to the NERD firmware a little while back. So, my 3rd spot in the Center Row of my NERD shows O2 cylinder pressure, Dil cylinder pressure, and SurfGF.
- True one piece 2" webbing harness, still using the standard rEvo top and bottom back plate pieces. No QR or other type of buckles at all. In my experience with one-piece (aka Hogarthian) harnesses for single tank, back mount doubles, and CCR, when it is setup correctly, there is no need for any kind of quick release or quick adjust components. Generally, that means the shoulder straps are much looser than what people initially expect.
- rEvo factory stand with 75mm standoffs on my main unit. Someone posted that the factory stand is titanium. Maybe they have that now, but mine is stainless. Don Six stand on my second unit. Both stands are great and have pros and cons.
Don's website for his stands: Home
The Don Six stand is lighter.
The Don Six stand is rectangular, so it does not have rings on the sides extending forward and poking into my waist. I'm a bigger guy - wider than the factory stand was clearly designed to accommodate.
The factory stand is more convenient for air travel. One hex wrench is all that's required to remove the factory stand base and pack in with the unit, to put back on at my destination.
The Don Six stand is taller than how I have my factory stand setup. I like the extra height. I don't have my factory stand setup that tall because of the sides that poke me. Having the stand extend down further had the sides poking me in my butt cheeks, instead of my waist, which was less comfortable.
The Don Six stand is more convenient for using to store stuff inside it. E.g. you can easily put a pouch holding a lift bag.
- Dive Rite Nomad XT wing. Not the Nomad CCR wing - the Nomad sidemount wing. I almost never dive with any lead added and I have no trouble achieving good flat trim with no sculling required. I attribute this to the shape of the wing and where it distributes lift (i.e. lower, closer to my hips, counteracting the inherent tail heaviness).
Fitting this wing works with the standard back plate pieces, but it requires cannibalizing the Nomad so that it will never go back to being a sidemount rig again. You have to remove the soft backplate that is attached to the wing with grommets.
- rEvo BOV on my primary unit, but I'm planning to switch back to a standard DSV with Cooper hoses as soon as I make some maintenance time at home.
- spiral wrap on my controller and NERD cords, for protection from cuts and abrasions. A friend that dives a Meg recently had to have a new head and controller because the sheath on the controller cable got a cut in it and water seeped through that all the way into both ends.
What I used:
- Split crotch strap. I've been using the Zeagle one for a few years, but I really don't like it. It was just what was on my unit when I bought my first one. I recently got new one from Cave Adventurers, which I will be changing both my units to. I haven't used them yet, but their design addresses my two main complaints with the Zeagle. I.e. they have no plastic buckles, and they have a sewn-in scooter ring.
Cave Adventurers - Cave Adventurers Scooter Crotch Strap - Marianna, Florida USA - Never Undersold!
CA Scooter Crotch Strap
www.caveadventurers.com
- Vortex Rifle Scope flip cap on my NERD. There is another brand some people use but the Vortex one specifically says its spring is stainless, so I use that. The O-24 size seems questionable on paper regarding whether it is big enough for the NERD, but it is.
******************************************************
I made a separate post about my AI:
How did my NERD/AI setup make me VERY glad to have it?
I was diving my rEvo down in Pompano Beach in August. My last dive of the trip was a hot drop on the Miller Lite. I'm going to just summarize what happened. On the way down, I realized that my BOV was leaking dil into the loop. I could feel it blowing gently into my mouth. I knew the O-ring...
Which wings work best with the revo?
broncobowsher
Contributor
I had bought a Momentum and Vortex at the same time. (I have no patience...) I knew the Momentum would fit, but thought the Vortex might not. But, I use the Vortex because it says it has a stainless steel spring, where the Momentum does not say and I assume it's not.
I've had the Vortex since December, 2020, and the lid spring has never given me a moment's trouble. It still works strongly.
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