Question re Flathead 7 reg

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Hatul

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I'm interested in buying this reg, and locally I can use with my steel tank with Pro valve in DIN mode. When traveling I may need yoke.

Is this a reasonable plan: buy the yoke version and yoke-to-DIN conversion kit (Part Number 345-1010) to convert myself? Will I need any special tools? When I convert myself is the reg identical to the DIN version?

Also, how do I decide if to get the Flathead 7 or the Flathead LT?

Adam
 
Last edited:
I'm interested in buying this reg, and locally I can use with my steel tank with Pro valve in DIN mode. When traveling I may need yoke.

Is this a reasonable plan: buy the yoke version and yoke-to-DIN conversion kit (Part Number 345-1010) to convert myself? Will I need any special tools? When I convert myself is the reg identical to the DIN version?

Also, how do I decide if to get the Flathead 7 or the Flathead LT?

Adam


Hi,

If your day to day is Din I would buy a din reg and a 30 dollar din to yoke adaptor for those times where you need to use J(y)oke tanks.

The yoke adaptor is a screw on / screw off part. It screws on top of the din.

On the other side the yoke/din conversion kit requires technical knowledge, a bench, vince, tools, etc as you remove the din plug and install a yoke.

Installing the conversion kit is not something you could do easily on a boat. With the yoke/din adaptor you could do with your eyes closed (literally).

DIN is safer so go for DIN

D
 
As these are identical regulators except for the cold water features of the 7,and are a sealed diaphram design, I would select the lighter and more compact model unless you are diving cold water, wwhich is the reason for the the 7.
 
As these are identical regulators except for the cold water features of the 7,and are a sealed diaphram design, I would select the lighter and more compact model unless you are diving cold water, wwhich is the reason for the the 7.


Sorry, didn't finished reading the q.

Yes unless you are planning to dive in water colder than 6 degrees Celsius (or you plan to treat your regs like trash) the "non sealed" ones to pick.
 
OK. Question about the work of breathing. On the Zeagle web site WOB of the Flathead 7 is 0.72 J/L and on the ZeagleExpress it's 0.91.

Why the difference?

Adam

:blush: Because I'm never told about spec changes until a customer points it out and embarrasses me for a product update.

I think it may have been a typo that was corrected after I added the product description from the Zeagle main site
 
:blush: Because I'm never told about spec changes until a customer points it out and embarrasses me for a product update.

I think it may have been a typo that was corrected after I added the product description from the Zeagle main site


Gibby/ Scott please fell free to correct/clarify.

The enviro kit will always detract a little of performance vs the "non sealed" version. If you check the results for the XP vs the VI you'll see that the XP is rated to .72 joules per liter whilst the VI is rated at 0.91 (still outstanding)

I pressume it is not different between the 7 and LT and that the typo is in the Zeagle website on the "Flathead 7" page rather than on Gibby's page.

There is no published test for the 7 or LT on the zeagle "regulator tests" page.
However, the VI and XP are pubished there. Follow the link below to review those. The Internals are pretty much the same.

http://www.zeagle.com/Content/26/regulator-tests/

BTW, unless you are really diving cold, that is a further reason to buy the LT.


D
 
Gibby/ Scott please fell free to correct/clarify.

The enviro kit will always detract a little of performance vs the "non sealed" version. If you check the results for the XP vs the VI you'll see that the XP is rated to .72 joules per liter whilst the VI is rated at 0.91 (still outstanding)

I pressume it is not different between the 7 and LT and that the typo is in the Zeagle website on the "Flathead 7" page rather than on Gibby's page.

There is no published test for the 7 or LT on the zeagle "regulator tests" page.
However, the VI and XP are pubished there. Follow the link below to review those. The Internals are pretty much the same.

http://www.zeagle.com/Content/26/regulator-tests/

BTW, unless you are really diving cold, that is a further reason to buy the LT.


D

It would be nice if Scott from Zeagle would clarify the above discrepancy.

Also I have a few more questions:
1. I assume the second stage is the same for both the 7 and LT, correct?
2. can the LT be converted to the sealed 7, if some time down the road I want dive in cold water?

3. On the Zeagle website is says:

Even if you don't dive in cold water, Zeagle's environmental seal helps to keep your first stage functioning at peak performance by keeping sand, salt, and other contaminants out of the internal mechanism.

So if price is not a concern and I dive in water 50F and above is it not better to get the sealed 7?

Adam
 
A conversion absolutely can be done on the Envoy, Flathead XP or LT 1st stages to environmentally seal the reg for cold water use.

A 2nd stage can have a heat exchanger added as well as an adjustment knob if desired.
Some people have had us remove adjustment knobs when they wish to dedicate them as an octo that collects a little less grit in the works.

In all instances the regs with enviro kits breathe harder on the test machine but most people out there would fail the Pepsi challenge if they had to breathe both regs blindfolded.

I'm sure Scott will have a word back from Jim Fox on the actual numbers.

One more thing I'll point out is that most of the diving I do on the LT is in pretty muddy gritty water and I have yet to find any dirt where it wasn't supposed to be. In theory it's good practice but I think using the sealed reg for other than cold water use is a wash. The other side of the reg has just as proficient of oring seals as the side with the enviro seal and dirt stays out of there unless you have serious problems.
 
A conversion absolutely can be done on the Envoy, Flathead XP or LT 1st stages to environmentally seal the reg for cold water use.

A 2nd stage can have a heat exchanger added as well as an adjustment knob if desired.
Some people have had us remove adjustment knobs when they wish to dedicate them as an octo that collects a little less grit in the works.

In all instances the regs with enviro kits breathe harder on the test machine but most people out there would fail the Pepsi challenge if they had to breathe both regs blindfolded.

I'm sure Scott will have a word back from Jim Fox on the actual numbers.

One more thing I'll point out is that most of the diving I do on the LT is in pretty muddy gritty water and I have yet to find any dirt where it wasn't supposed to be. In theory it's good practice but I think using the sealed reg for other than cold water use is a wash. The other side of the reg has just as proficient of oring seals as the side with the enviro seal and dirt stays out of there unless you have serious problems.

I reckon that you are probably right. Most people wouldn't be able to differentiate between one a .72 and a .90. Also bare in mind that the test is at 60msw under heavy exertion. Very different conditions than the regular "recreational" dive.


A further thing to note is that on those high performance regs most of the WOB comes from exertion (that is, breathing out rather than breathing in).

D
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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