Question Venting/Frustrated/Advice Needed

[Lorenzoid]

Yes, it's blowing my mind. I just contacted a buddy who stated that they are not selling parts anymore unless you have the certification: "TDI Edge-Hog Service Technician Specialty." I know before one of the best-selling points with HOG were being able to get the kits yourself without a course, but now?

Coincidentally enough, this class is a virtual class offered by DRIS/Diver's Supply.

They do absolutely sell the Yoke to DIN, and even gave me the part number and price for it. Just based on appearances and my old D1, I do believe they are the same and I wish I would not have sold them now. If they are, and you're willing to trade a Yoke or let me purchase one I am game.

I took the TDI Edge-HOG service course at the Divers Supply up here in Marietta, and it was worthwhile for me, because I had no previous experience servicing regulators. If you already have that knowledge, it would be a waste for you.

I'm heading out of town for a few days, but if you want to confirm the D1 DIN assembly will work for your D3s, I will try to find mine when I'm back next week.

 

[Zef]

That's really odd. I mean, DRIS sells the DIN-to-Yoke conversion kit on their website, so why invoke the "you'll kill yourself" defense with the Yoke-to-DIN? Does HOG make a Yoke-to-DIN conversion kit?

Hog DIN to Yoke conversion Kit

Convert your Hog D1 DIN first stage to a YOKE first stage with this Hog DIN to Yoke conversion Kit. Recommended to have this installed by a trained professional.

www.diverightinscuba.com

Is the D3 yoke assembly the same as the D1 yoke assembly? I suppose I still have the DIN assemblies I removed from my D1s when I replaced them with yokes using the DIN-to-Yoke conversion kits I bought from DRIS, and I have no need for them. I'm in Atlanta.

I just checked the schematics for the D1 and the D3 to crossreference the DIN connection part numbers and they unfortunately do not match up....some of the parts might work but even the diagrams show a different configuration such as the sintered filter for example.

-Z

 

[Zef]

I contacted them, same response as Diver's Supply.



Do you remember when? It would appear if you have not taken the certification class that this is HOG's official new policy?

Hog D3 First Stage.... I guess I can just buy an entirely new 1st stage and have the other one as a backup. It's only $50 more than what it would cost me to get it done at the shop.

Check with Piranha Dive, they sell HOG stuff:

https://www.piranhadivemfg.com

-Z

 

[happy-diver]

I wanted to convert one of the reg sets to DIN

Is the D3 yoke assembly the same as the D1 yoke assembly? I suppose I still have the DIN assemblies I removed from my D1s when I replaced them with yokes using the DIN-to-Yoke conversion kits I bought from DRIS, and I have no need for them. I'm in Atlanta.

At one time there was a very active DIY group on SB. We have lost too many over the past years but it is still active. I suggest posting your problem there and see if anyone has one to sell, new or used. Or knows alternatives. Or you could post a want to buy thread.

What a really terrific idea

If you don't know how to get it you don't need it

At the current time the reg group has never been more comprehensive

 

[FreqFlier]

I would simply get a DIN first stage instead (more compact and properly psi rated). There is no real benefit in yoke-to-DIN adapter, since yoke is 232bar/3400psi vs DIN being 300bar/4350psi rated. I believe that pressure difference is the main reason they don't want to sell you yoke-to-DIN piece

 

[GAOtter]

I would simply get a DIN first stage instead (more compact and properly psi rated). There is no real benefit in yoke-to-DIN adapter, since yoke is 232bar/3400psi vs DIN being 300bar/4350psi rated. I believe that pressure difference is the main reason they don't want to sell you yoke-to-DIN piece

Hey Freq, it's not actually an adapter. It's a complete conversion kit from Yoke to DIN. Effectively, making the system an actual DIN first stage as you would buy it from the factory. However, that's what I ended up doing regardless. I remembered I had a $225 credit at a dive shop in West Palm for a called boat dive. I called them up and used that credit and paid about $50 more and got a new DIN D3 that's being shipped to me.

In the end it actually worked out for the better. I was able to convince the wife that well, you know our son needs a reg set anyways. Let's just give him the new DIN D3 with my Zenith set and I will get a XT4/XT1 Diverite combo in DIN for myself. Additionally, I've got a LDS right down the road that services DiveRite, so this situation should not happen again.

I now have a new DIN D3 1st stage, a back-up Yoke D3 1st stage, and a new XT4/XT1 Diverite 2nd/1st stage.

I do want to thank everyone that was helping me out. I really appreciate it, and that is why I love this sport. I've never met a group of people more willing to help each other tackle problems than our Scuba brothers and sisters. Stay safe ya'll and I'll be sticking around and trying to return the favor where and when I can!

 

[Mobulai]

here are the measuremnts I could take off a SP DIN wheel, this is from an mk17 (not evo, so this is not the most recent version -- but I believe the should all have that same last bit)
I would not think much about that top shoulder closer to the wheel, what counts is the one closer to the threads

All meas. are in mm
please allow for tolerances -- this is best I could do with a cheap plastic caliper
-----------------------
Guessing game:
I think the SP DIN retainer is gonna be short for the D3 from the schematic I see
the 2nd upper shoulder here is the one that levels with the cosmetic plastic side vents, the lower one levels with the body itself

I think from the pictures I saw of the D3 the threads are too little for the SP one to fit

 

[Mobulai]

In the end it actually worked out for the better. I was able to convince the wife that well, you know our son needs a reg set anyways. Let's just give him the new DIN D3 with my Zenith set and I will get a XT4/XT1 Diverite combo in DIN for myself. Additionally, I've got a LDS right down the road that services DiveRite, so this situation should not happen again.

Ask and the universe shall gift -- happy days for all

 

[tbriglia]

Need some advice ya'll, I've been a long-time lurker here and usually able to find the answer to any questions I may need but haven't found this one. I currently own two Hog D3 reg sets. They've been flawless, no issues, been serviced when needed by the techs, and have performed well for about 300 dives on each regulator set. I wanted to convert one of the reg sets to DIN, and keep the other Yoke (Yes, I have PRO valves on all my tanks, but honestly, when I go out with my family, I'm not in the mood to run around and adjust everyone's valve or mess with it. They can stay Yoke and I'll be going back to DIN.)

I assumed this would be an easy process, called up our local Dive Shop that's authorized to sell HOG equipment. Asked them to ship me out a Yoke to DIN conversion kit, gave them the model number and all pertinent information. Apparently, I have to be an "authorized repair technician" to unscrew the Yoke, grease an O-ring, attach the DIN adaptor, and torque the part to receive that part. However, they sell the kits to other brands on their websites that you can have shipped right to your door. So, when I asked the guy, oh I must be mistaken I am sorry, I did not believe the D3's 1st stage had to be cracked open to replace the connector. I then received the "well it doesn't, but we cannot sell it unless you've taken the class, it's got to be torqued to spec." I replied, well ok, can I just come in and do it, and then you can torque it to spec for me and we call it a day? "Well, no, it's got to be torque tested." WHAT!?!?!!?!?!?!?!?!?

So, I called HOG and get this. They will not sell me the part either unless I take their course. Because it's got to be "torqued to spec" that's "just our policy to protect ourselves." And then he throws me this gem, "just last week we had an authorized service tech who bought the same kit and had to send the 1st stage in because he mushroomed it out inside because he over torqued it." I HAVE MY OWN TORQUE WRENCHES.

THAT.... IS..... WHY...... I..... DONT...... WANT...... YOU....... PEOPLE....... TOUCHING........ MY...... STUFF!!!! Especially for little things like this. The guy just explained the exact reason I am attempting to prevent in the first place.

I've spent at least 5 grand on HOG/Dive Rite gear in the last 3 years. And at least 10 grand at this dive shop. Can people please just stop trying to nickel and dime every little thing under this planet? The sport is already expensive enough, and I am ok with that. I love it, I'd probably pay more. But it is the principle at this point.

Here's my options as I currently see them:

• Pay $436.99 for an online HOG regulator course where I will sit in front of my camera for 8 hours and get my certification.

-OR-

• Drive 2 hours and 30 minutes to the nearest dealer, pay them $57 for the part, and then pay them $100 at a minimum to unscrew and screw on the part and "torque" it. So, I'm looking at a total price of around $225 and time wasted at the shop for nothing.

-OR-

• Say screw it, leave both of them Yoke, and just buy a whole new regulator set for me that is DIN because I'm angry, and you know what? I need one for my son anyways who just got certified.

So, question's, would the Scuba Pro "universal" Scubapro work on the HOG D3? I don't know because I cannot get the manuals without taking a $400 class. Or any other one's that I may be missing?

Do any regulator companies still come with readily accessible user manuals, and parts that do not require money grabs to get? And if so, which would you recommend for cold/warm/murky and all-around durable rec/tec regulators?

I feel a lot better now, I am not as irrationally angry. I don't blame the employees of either company either. It is not their fault, but it's silly, nonetheless. Nice to meet ya'll.

I don’t think they are giving you all the information that you need to do the job. God forbid they pass along trade secrets . As long as you have a recently calibrated torque wrench then you are go to go. Just keep in mind that any extension or adapter you add to the torque wrench will change the value of the required measurements.