Looking for a nice Air Integrated, liberal decom(or able to change liberal/conservativeness) computer. Open to literally anything.

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I wish it had was meter for the transmitter battery and not just an alert when it's low,

Yeah, I thought about that as well. But, I’m thinking this might be a limitation of the transmitter. My Oceanic VT4.1 did have a menu option to check the transmitter battery, but if it was good, it merely indicated “OK”. Didn’t give a percent or voltage. Likewise, my downloaded logs in Subsurface also show that the transmitter voltage is “OK.”
I think the transmitter just sends a status report, like OK, weak, and critical/almost-too-late. This takes fewer bits (2 is sufficient) than actually sending a voltage....
 
I think the transmitter just sends a status report, like OK, weak, and critical/almost-too-late. This takes fewer bits (2 is sufficient) than actually sending a voltage....
Agreed. I think that makes sense. Uses fairly little power, so there should be plenty of time between weak and no longer working that this level of granularity makes sense.

I've been following the recent progress on deciphering the signal here: Reading Wireless Air Transmitter using Arduino

Seems they have the transmitter ID and pressure bits worked out, but haven't fully worked out the battery status portion yet.

Edit: Just saw your response there, so I see you are following it as well.
 
I love changing my nitrox from 32% to 31% with one button press [edit: on the Teric] instead of nine [edit: on the Perdix].
Why would you bother?
Because it's easy and I can see what fills I'm actually getting later on (e.g., to compare operators). Plus, it's just the right thing to do.

What error would you accept?
 
On the liveaboards I've been on the membrane systems usually fall within 30%-33%. I wouldn't bother switching within this window.
 
On the liveaboards I've been on the membrane systems usually fall within 30%-33%. I wouldn't bother switching within this window.
I often do not change when it is +/- 1%. If I have all my tanks, like on a boat 2 or 3 tanker, I will often just put in on the lowest % when it is within that range. I recently did 45 dives in Bonaire, all the tanks were 31-32%, I left in on 31% for the 2 weeks.
 
I dislike the "best gas" nag when i have richer mixes defined. I know 32% is better for the dive i am doing and if it was available i would be using it. Other than that, no complaints.
 
I dislike the "best gas" nag when i have richer mixes defined. I know 32% is better for the dive i am doing and if it was available i would be using it. Other than that, no complaints.
Doesn't that only show up when you have those other gases turned on? Turn off those gases that are not with you during the dive.
 
On the liveaboards I've been on the membrane systems usually fall within 30%-33%. I wouldn't bother switching within this window.
In this situation I would probably set my computer on 30% and use 33% for my MOD.
 
Same here, every New Years. You're right about it lasting a lot longer than that, my original battery that came in my first TX lasted well over 2 years without a warning. I ended up changing because it was freaking me out that it was so long and there was no way to see the volts lol
I was thinking with the perdix ai, a change once a month, first day of the month.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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