Hose horns. tough as nails or fragile?

[Scott G. Bonser]

Got these hoses, lumps and bumps, convolutions uneven, crap

View attachment 813866

View attachment 813867

I mean what is that

Now that’s a great restore there. You can customize the way you want. Don’t let the extra convolutions scare you. These hoses are remarkably flexible for any application. I have same hoses on my Nemrod Snark restoration but have a DACOR MP assembly. The rings are weights to keep hoses away from your face sides if you so desire. Just place both sides evenly for even weight distribution also reduces the floatation pushing the MP so hard into your gums at the end of a dive. Touche dude…You have a winner!!

 

[boat sju]

…since I really haven’t seen the MP, tee, or one way valves it’s hard to say. I bought a ‘worn’ and neglected Drager ( see my avatar ) ….no way to get replacements for these parts. I disassembled, washed in the vinegar/water solution and carefully scrubbed the surface of the rubber with non-stick cooking pan scrubber, the insides, and everything until like new. ….found out the mouthpiece assembly wasn’t brown, but a beautiful blue. The inside of the tee was brass and I got it shining. The one way valves were a different story. I had to save the Drager ‘wagon wheels’ as they were not same as most replacement ones anywhere and just add new mushroom valves to them. After extensively cleaning and restoring the can and insides as well as the springs coming from the horns, I was able to replace the stiff split hoses with new ones from TSM. the diaphragm was like a reinforced rubber bellows, sorta and it was surprisingly like new and supple. Now it’s one of my best breathing regulators. Now I wish I kept a photo journal of this restoration. It was one of my first. If you really want, unless it’s just trashed you can restore the MP and tee.

Scott G. Bonser

@Scott G. Bonser , The mouthpiece and hoses were in good shape but they had a terrible smell too them. I gave them a Clorox bath and then a few days soaking in a simple green solution. That finally took the smell out but they still had a coating of brown oxidation or something. Anyway, a good wipe down with a significant amount of Armor All did the trick. So I will be using them. Naturally, the mushroom valves were toast but easily replaced.

boat

 

[Scott G. Bonser]

@Scott G. Bonser , The mouthpiece and hoses were in good shape but they had a terrible smell too them. I gave them a Clorox bath and then a few days soaking in a simple green solution. That finally took the smell out but they still had a coating of brown oxidation or something. Anyway, a good wipe down with a significant amount of Armor All did the trick. So I will be using them. Naturally, the mushroom valves were toast but easily replaced.

boat

Yes, the ‘old’rubber had some unique odors as well as some that may have ‘joined’ them. From experience….I ordered a Russian dive mask from Bulgaria. Excellent quality rubber for its age and a fantastic face seal, but it reeked of ‘ashtray’ . Again a 24 hour soaking in vinegar/water solution ( …found this remedy on-line..) the burnt tobacco smell was eliminated with no chemical harm done. I did final wash in mild dish detergent, rinsed thoroughly, and it smells like a normal dive mask. Still seals like a champ and in remarkable shape for blue rubber at its age.

 

[Scott G. Bonser]

@Scott G. Bonser , The mouthpiece and hoses were in good shape but they had a terrible smell too them. I gave them a Clorox bath and then a few days soaking in a simple green solution. That finally took the smell out but they still had a coating of brown oxidation or something. Anyway, a good wipe down with a significant amount of Armor All did the trick. So I will be using them. Naturally, the mushroom valves were toast but easily replaced.

boat

Brown may be iron stain if stored next to damp steel or iron. The vinegar or mild Phisphoric will dissolve and just wipe off. Harmless, just looks bad….

 

[boat sju]

. . . and Bob's your uncle:

. . . and Fanny's yer aunt :

Thanks for all the help everyone.

boat

 

[James79]

. . . and Fanny's yer aunt :
View attachment 815432
Thanks for all the help everyone.

boat

Did you end up having to shave the band clamp down some, or did you find the magic angle for that can?

 

[boat sju]

James, Never found the magic angle. Used a sharpie to trace the horn onto the band clamp, then took a dremel to it. Post #47 shows the trimmed/installed band clamp. I don't think its noticeable, especially now with the hoses on.

 

[Scott G. Bonser]

. . . and Fanny's yer aunt :
View attachment 815432
Thanks for all the help everyone.

boat

Now that looks good!! You should be satisfied with the outcome. …time for a ‘pool test’ to get an idea about its performance….great job.

 

[captain]

Later regulators were not designed for the band clamp. The horns were round close to the can but early horns were retangular for about 1/2 " before becoming round. A dremel will solve the problem if you have the late horns. Most satin chrome cans have the longer rectangle section and are longer overall.

 

[captain]

@James79 , It's hard to get a good picture but there's not enough clearance between the horn and the can to get the ring in there.
View attachment 814734

That is the later design.

This is the the early horn. Actually that is a bit of a unique regulator a DA Navy 2nd stage with a stub hookah port and the 2nd stage orientated to the inhalation port side of the can instead of the exhalation port side as was common on DA Navy's. Best info suggests it was built for the Navy when USD was discontinuing the DA Navy and the Navy had not yet accepted the DAM into service because they had issues with exhalation effort so the story goes.