Hog D1 Regulator Repair Class

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If you have such an issue with the class, you do not need to take it or you can 100% come up with your own course, get it approved to teach, and start teaching it.

I am not trying to be a jerk, but if you don't like it...it's your choice not to participate or take the class. Your attitude does nothing to help or strengthen the course, only to belittle our efforts and FULL thought that we have put into this(we meaning all those involved at HOG, D1 Course Instructors, etc).

Most of the tools list was actually assembled during the D1 Instructor Program at DEMA.

Sorry if this upset you that much.....Remember, we DID NOT write the course...we are only teaching it. And if adjustable wrenches get you this worked up, what are you like in a traffic jam :D

Any by the way...do you see ANYONE else even attempting to get this out to you or make this course available???

Doh! You quoted me as I was editing my self!

I use box wrenches for tear down. As suggested you can use the same crows feet with a ratchet that you use for the torque wrench. I was just using the torque wrench as an example of the amount of tools needed, a wrench set is peanuts.

I prefer plastic picks because there is almost a zero chance of surface damage. However, you need to be careful about FOD if the tip of the pick breaks off. The cheap plastic picks tend to have that problem. But if you get a pick made out of nylon 6-6 or Delrin they bend all the heck before they break and leave FOD.

I was just spun up because I had some issues with parts and adjustable wrench usage a half hour before I posted, and it was 1AM. And you don't want to see me in traffic, its not very pretty. That is why I live in Buffalo, the longest traffic jam you can be in is maybe 15 minutes.

You know I hold your efforts in the highest regards.
 
Just a few comments and one question...

@Dive Right In Scuba: It sounds like your tech did a thorough job of putting together the service manual. I hope that he gets proper credit/compensation for the work. I was under the impression that the manufacturer was going to release a freely available (downloadable) official service manual containing all of the info requested by HenrikBP. It seems strange that the manual does not originate from Edge/HOG.

Just a suggestion, but you might want to specify which crowfoot wrenches you'll need. It may not be necessary to purchase an entire set if, for instance, you'll only be using an 18mm crowfoot wrench (attached to the 3/8"-drive torque wrench) to tighten the locking nut on the valve spindle of the second stage.

It is evident that one needs a pin spanner wrench (not a hook spanner wrench) to service the HOG first stage. I say this only because the HOG first stage pin "impressions" on the end cap and diaphragm clamp look very similar to the ones on the Apeks first stage, with which I am familiar. The aluminum-built pin spanner wrenches on the Scubatools.com website are not as sturdy as ones manufactured from forged steel. I service my Apeks first stage with a 40-42 mm DIN 1810 Form B pin spanner wrench (891-40; $15.95 each) sold by BloomerTool.com. The pin is roughly 1/8" tall x 1/8" in diameter. I own these and they are quality, German-made wrenches. Perhaps you could direct students on which size Elora wrench will work with the HOG first stages.

I guess that o-rings for LP reg hoses and HP hoses will be provided...as well as the small o-rings for the HP spool for the SPG.

Would Tribolube 71 be a suitable oxygen-compatible lubricant alternative to ChristoLube? I ask because DiveRiteInScuba.com appears to carry Tribolube 71 but not ChristoLube.


Tribolube is a great substitute, and at the time the parts list was compiled at DEMA, Hog was using Christolube. From my understanding, they have now switched to Tribolube in their regulators, but either one is acceptable per the manufacturers guidelines. We just need to go back into that and add Tribolube...thanks for catching that :wink:

My tech will be getting back to you on some of your other questions, as he is the Instructor. This is some good feedback....the feedback which helps turn out a great course. This is truely an industry first, not only for DRIS but HOG and the dive industry..... and streamlining will take place as the course gets taught.

I agree about the manual...and do not wish to discuss further in an open forum about its past, present, future pertaining to the manufacturer :wink: I can tell you that we have a great one coming, that we hope to have approved by the manufacturer...then you may see it on their site for free
 
and now, a word from the instructor...

For those with comments, I am listening. Suggestions made in good spirit are always welcome but I'm really not looking to get into a quibble regarding minutia - my plan is to adopt the best ideas I hear and run with them. There are a lot of details and competing requirements to balance and I don't want to let the process bog down any further than it has - the objective remains to see if we can teach some non-technicians how to perform an annual service on their D1 without having to buy a dive shop. I will say that nobody who shows up with Tribolube, plastic picks or open end wrenches is going to get sent home.:D

I'm a manufacturer trained tech for nearly every regulator out there and have been servicing regulators for years. I can say that putting the manual together was a time-consuming project. Though it isn't officially sanctioned by Edge/HOG, I consulted with them extensively. For the foreseeable future, distribution of the manual will be restricted to those who are taking the class. We (DRIS, HOG & me) want people to take the class and aren't prepared to start giving the manuals away to anyone who is feeling brave enough to tackle the job without training. We're breaking new ground with the class but don't want to help the innocent dig their own graves. If you work for a HOG dealer and want a copy of the manual, drop me a line and we'll see what we can do.

It has been a big job getting ready and we have been proceeding slowly to make sure we're comfortable with what we're doing. That said, I'm expecting we'll learn a lot from this first session of the class and that the next one will be even better. We hope to come out with an online or webinar version of the class but just getting to this point has been enough excitement for now.

In the meantime, seats remain available, if not for this session then the next one. Sign up, get started on the homework and tool acquisition and I think you'll find the course is worth your effort. If you're one of those "always wanted to learn how" but haven't had the opportunity or desire to work in a dive shop and follow the usual path for technician training, here's your chance to officially learn how to service your own regulator.
 
Not trying to keep anything under wraps, just not fully ready to release anything yet. This is something that my tech put together, and did a great job on (100+ pages). I want to ensure he gets his royalties for his work and this manual just doesn't get passed around in an electronic format...which I am sure everyone can agree is fair :wink:

Sorry Mike. "Under wraps" was probably a poor choice of words. My intent was to say that I know how much work goes into writing and publishing, and as such I understand that you would want to reap the benefits of all the work you/your tech have done.

It is evident that one needs a pin spanner wrench (not a hook spanner wrench) to service the HOG first stage. I say this only because the HOG first stage pin "impressions" on the end cap and diaphragm clamp look very similar to the ones on the Apeks first stage, with which I am familiar. The aluminum-built pin spanner wrenches on the Scubatools.com website are not as sturdy as ones manufactured from forged steel.

I have a couple of the pin spanners from Scubatools, and while I generally really like their tools and am happy that someone is making those available to us - their pin spanners aren't their best item. The ones I have work ok, however the pins are not perfectly perpendicular to the radius of the curve of the spanner, which makes torquing or loosening a bit touchy.

I like the look of the ones you linked to. 1.5" is about 38mm, so maybe your 40-42mm one would work?

I agree about the manual...and do not wish to discuss further in an open forum about its past, present, future pertaining to the manufacturer :wink: I can tell you that we have a great one coming, that we hope to have approved by the manufacturer...then you may see it on their site for free

Sounds good Mike. Keep us posted.

Henrik
 
I could not find a really good set of pin spanners so I ended up making my own, I have it down pretty good now. I find a piece of round bar the same diameter of the spanner I want to make. Then I hot bend a piece of 3/8" square tool steel around it. Then I trim to make a 90 degree radius, drill and set the pin. Then I weld the pin in place and if I want to use a torque wrench I will weld a junk socket to the side of it at the apex of the radius. After all this I quench harden it and clean it up.

One thing I found is you don't want the pin perfectly perpendicular to the radius. I set the pin angled slightly into the radius. This makes the pin contact the hole away from the surface. If the pin is perfect or angled out of the radius it will contact the very surface of the hole and will cause a pucker to form. This in turn can damage the chrome plating.

If you have not noticed I am WAY anal retentive.
One of the most important things I think needs to be taught is attention to detail. How not to cause damage, from tooling, removing o-rings. Teach about surface finishes for sealing surfaces and how things effect them. If someone is going to service gear I would hope they already know how a regulator works. Its the fine details that are lacking.
 
Take the class then tell us that :D You only saw what we wanted you to see of the class so far :wink:

That was a miss read
I was saying its the fine details the students are lacking.

I have no idea what is in or not in the course :wink:
 
Hi,

Have you guys given any thought to how to organise teaching the course to those of us not in the USA??

Us folks down here in Australia are interested as well. No LDS keen to teach but I found 1 Tech workshop (servicing etc but no equipment sales) that would do a course for me to learn on my own regs after some persausion.

:coffee:
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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