Here is another light build and comparison

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The OP reflector is just screwed in. (mine was a bit loose, so easy to remove). The LED star is just affixed with some white heat paste with 2 wires going through to the driver behind it. It should come off with minimal force :D

Cool, I will try twisting off.
I also saw the ring that holds the driver in but can't get it off.
Thanks

Oh, on another note, I went to my o ring supplier today and picked up what look to be suitable o rings to seal up the head. I am going to bore out the tail section and build a pressed-on piece that will be JB Welded to the tail and threads put on for the Agro gland. Also, I am going to put a hall effect switch in the tail to turn it on and off with a magnet. Overall, I think this is going to be a nice project.

And yet another update, I visited a CNC shop today to try to get some OMS-like canisters fabricated out of Delrin. Those things have been on back order for 3 months now. I am sure they will not be $50 like the OMS, but they will be really nice.
 
Cool, I will try twisting off.
I also saw the ring that holds the driver in but can't get it off.
Thanks

Oh, on another note, I went to my o ring supplier today and picked up what look to be suitable o rings to seal up the head. I am going to bore out the tail section and build a pressed-on piece that will be JB Welded to the tail and threads put on for the Agro gland. Also, I am going to put a hall effect switch in the tail to turn it on and off with a magnet. Overall, I think this is going to be a nice project.

OK, figured out how to twist the reflector off...
My o rings were too big... Not by much though. I tried some standard o rings in 18 for the tail ,23 and 24 for the bezel. The 24 actually worked well for the top of the lens. The rest were too big. I think I'll have to go metric.
 
Cool, I will try twisting off.
I also saw the ring that holds the driver in but can't get it off.
Thanks

...
And yet another update, I visited a CNC shop today to try to get some OMS-like canisters fabricated out of Delrin. Those things have been on back order for 3 months now. I am sure they will not be $50 like the OMS, but they will be really nice.

Y'know, I can't quite recall what exactly I did for this, all I remember was that I was able to get the ENTIRE assembly out of there. It made soldering my reed a lot easier than trying to do it in situ.
IIRC, for the ring, I used straight circlip pliers (with the tips filed down for a good fit) and put torque on the pliers to get the ring out. Alternatively (as I've used with other lights) a really sharp pointy pair of scissors fits nicely as well. Now as I said, it may have been this light, or maybe something else - I'm not too sure right now. I may even have taken it out from the front (!)
Regarding the canister, how about thick PVC with machined end caps - that ought to keep costs lower than full CNC delrin?
 
Y'know, I can't quite recall what exactly I did for this, all I remember was that I was able to get the ENTIRE assembly out of there. It made soldering my reed a lot easier than trying to do it in situ.
IIRC, for the ring, I used straight circlip pliers (with the tips filed down for a good fit) and put torque on the pliers to get the ring out. Alternatively (as I've used with other lights) a really sharp pointy pair of scissors fits nicely as well. Now as I said, it may have been this light, or maybe something else - I'm not too sure right now. I may even have taken it out from the front (!)
Regarding the canister, how about thick PVC with machined end caps - that ought to keep costs lower than full CNC delrin?

I thought about PVC. There is just the issue with it getting brittle in cold temperatures and lets face it, it's just not as nice... Lets see what price comes out to be and go from there... Thanks for the info
 
Chris, I have a question, can you see what the thread pitch is on that rear tube section for us? Preferrably standard (like 27 threads per inch or whatever pitch). This will help me in fabbing up the new rear section.

Thanks again for the quick shipping.

Sorry, I don't have all the fancy tools like you guys :confused:
 
I have the next build challenge for you guys.
I will be getting in the new Magicshine XM-L heads tomorrow. It's much less waterproof then the FEREIs, so I'm thinking you guys can make something like a light weight pipe with a lens and use the reflector, led..... out of the head unit.
What do you think?
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Maybe if you sent 350 a sample, he could work something up :wink:

But IIRC, I think the build quality of the Ferei is on a different level compared to Magicshine.

But gotta love that battery pack...

HPIM4975-432x317.jpg


Hey 350, wouldn't it be cool if you still got the clear OMS cans, and had a pack that could indicate battery level through it? Oooohhh.... an idea to play with....
 
I have the next build challenge for you guys.
I will be getting in the new Magicshine XM-L heads tomorrow. It's much less waterproof then the FEREIs, so I'm thinking you guys can make something like a light weight pipe with a lens and use the reflector, led..... out of the head unit.
What do you think?
attachment.php

XM-L would be great, but I have a feeling Doc is right. Especially, on the lens. It is probably too thin to be used. DX now has the 52mm modules available so it would be much cheaper to use one of those and a Maglite host.
 
Be patient with DX sometimes they take a loooong time. I just got a 5 LED DX module after waiting about 2 months and it's busted!

I finally got my DX 5 cree dropin but my office is closed for the weekend!!

What did you do with the busted DX 5 cree dropin? Did you replace the driver?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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