Here is another light build and comparison
- Thread starter 350xfire
- Start date
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Ed Palma
Contributor
What depth did you test it to? Did you use the stock lens? I was too chicken to go past 150' with mine, and since it wasn't my pot, I only had it in for ten minutes, so I'd like to know if its possible to go deeper than that 
I have not tested it to pressure, just in a bucket. I am going to try to get an M16x1.5 plug to plug the gland hole then test. Hopefully I'll come accross a plug tomorrow! That lens is so small that I am sure it will be fine to 300+.
Ed Palma
Contributor
I've got a photo of me using it in post 17.
Hey 350, good luck with the pressure pot testing All I know is that if I find myself at 300', my light will probably be the least of my concerns.
Hey 350, good luck with the pressure pot testing
All I know is that if I find myself at 300', my light will probably be the least of my concerns.beasleym
Contributor
Thanks for all the info from everyone!
I've started putting together a light out of a Ferei B-12. The one things I'm concerned about is the comment about the safety factor. How was the calculated and what would the results be for the B-12 which tops out at 53mm?
A couple of notes on what I've found so far:
1) The stock driver runs just fine with a piezo switch. This simplifies construction is some ways and not others. My thought is to put an extender on the end with square 1" aluminum. It looks like the existing barrel can be threaded with a 20mm thread. So one end of the extension will be 20mm, the other end threaded for 16mm for the cable gland. The top of extension will get a 5/8 hole for threading in the piezo switch (slightly recessed to keep from inadventent turn ons). The bottom (and the other reason for going square) will get a paddle handle for mounting on a neoprene semi glove.
2) The lens will get replaced with a borosilicate lens that is 5mm thick and probably coated to spread out the light a little more. Looks like there's room for replacing the stock seal in the front, one behind the lens, one on the barrel and one where the front section mates to the barrel. Overkill, maybe - but this is the weakest point.
3) One reason for the threaded-on extension is that there could be a lot of stress here. Over time, any glued connection could fail. Also, there will be o-rings where the two butt together, one internal, the other external. I'm looking at 6061 aluminum, with painting to match the Ferei head. While it start out square it will end up with the end fully rounded and all edges relieved.
4) There will be no power switch on the can, but I think I will put a sealed power connector for charging. This will be covered by a screw on top with a o-ring. Will also likely put a power gauge to monitor charging and dive time. May also put in a water detector with a painted on sensor. Can will be made out of 1/4 acrylic with machined ends out of 3/4 acrylic.
Any thoughts? I certainly would like feedback on the safety calculation done so far.
I've started putting together a light out of a Ferei B-12. The one things I'm concerned about is the comment about the safety factor. How was the calculated and what would the results be for the B-12 which tops out at 53mm?
A couple of notes on what I've found so far:
1) The stock driver runs just fine with a piezo switch. This simplifies construction is some ways and not others. My thought is to put an extender on the end with square 1" aluminum. It looks like the existing barrel can be threaded with a 20mm thread. So one end of the extension will be 20mm, the other end threaded for 16mm for the cable gland. The top of extension will get a 5/8 hole for threading in the piezo switch (slightly recessed to keep from inadventent turn ons). The bottom (and the other reason for going square) will get a paddle handle for mounting on a neoprene semi glove.
2) The lens will get replaced with a borosilicate lens that is 5mm thick and probably coated to spread out the light a little more. Looks like there's room for replacing the stock seal in the front, one behind the lens, one on the barrel and one where the front section mates to the barrel. Overkill, maybe - but this is the weakest point.
3) One reason for the threaded-on extension is that there could be a lot of stress here. Over time, any glued connection could fail. Also, there will be o-rings where the two butt together, one internal, the other external. I'm looking at 6061 aluminum, with painting to match the Ferei head. While it start out square it will end up with the end fully rounded and all edges relieved.
4) There will be no power switch on the can, but I think I will put a sealed power connector for charging. This will be covered by a screw on top with a o-ring. Will also likely put a power gauge to monitor charging and dive time. May also put in a water detector with a painted on sensor. Can will be made out of 1/4 acrylic with machined ends out of 3/4 acrylic.
Any thoughts? I certainly would like feedback on the safety calculation done so far.
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