Halcyon H75P + Halo (weird?) cranking effort

[buddhasummer]

I'll add flow vane to that too, particular with the snap in type as found in a G250V/Halo. That O ring is subject to very low pressure and almost never gives trouble even after many many many years of use.

 

[estresao]

I've tool a three videos:
- 1st one is the reg whith no membrane set in order to show how the lever is fitted. Beggining of the video is with no pressure and then I open the tank to pressurize it.

-2nd is after fiting the membrane with is transparebt-ish anf allow seeing how the lever kiss it.

- 3rd is about my Magnehelic kit.

I"ll open my reg a perform the suggested tests.

 

[estresao]

Well.... I did the chamber test (put my finger in the poppet hole and pull from the chamber), and there are too much friction to let the chamber come back... I guess I'm doing the test properly.

Put more Cristolub just in case and nope, the chamber is unable to get back.

So that means the o rings are too thick?. I'll try to find the original ones to compare, plus check my set of orings to check thst up.

@Kupu it could be a good idea if you can send these orings meantime I try to find an original maintenance kit.

See video below:

 

[estresao]

So... found original orings (don't know why I store this kind of thing, but couple of years ago I did) and found that new o'rings are a little bigger... not much but enougth.

Installed original o-rings and now the chamber test passed(video bellow)

I'm going to mount the reg and measure again the crank effort.

 

[estresao]

Mounted everything back and now crank effort is much better.. around 1.

 

[Nemrod]

You do a good job with videos but still diagnosing issues via the www is not easy.

IMO, the lever is a bit too low which indicates the seat is indented or the orifice is damaged or both. There should be hardly any movement (1/16 inch) before flow begins (with purge cover installed). With a good seat and orifice you should be able to set the regs up to just barely begin to flow with the knob fully out by backing the orifice out (or in) as needed.

The balance chamber O-rings do not appear to be the correct size and this alone could cause much of your problems.

Silicone works better, IMO, than what you are using.

The verdigris on the air tube needs to go away, lol!

Your cracking effort now looks pretty good, within specification, assuming the knob is fully out .

Nice set up for testing, you did good!

 

[estresao]

I've found Halcyon original kits, so when they arrive I'll redo both regs (@Kupu don't need you send me orings... but I really appreciate your offer).

I adjusted everything and the lever doesn't move anymore.

I think everything is working now, althought I'm curious about whether it's possible to get crankeffor under 1 water inch. (knob is fully opened)

When the kit arrives, I'll use silicon lubricant as suggested (I though Christo-Lube was better)

Regarding the verdigris LOL... well is was cleaned pretty well using the ultrasonic chamber and a specific product to be mixed with detilled watet... it was really clean, but after some dives it's getting like this. Will clean them again anyway when new maintenance kits arrives.

 

[estresao]

Thanks you guys very much, I've learned a lot from all you.

 

[Nemrod]

Yes, you can get the cracking effort to basically nothing if the reg is set to just barely flow with the knob fully out. Some prefer this (me) and others do not (factory). I turn my knob in to stop free flow about one half turns.

The regulator body has what is called case fault (geometry), basically the position of the exhaust valve relative to the diaphragm, that limits your lowest practical cracking force setting.

I was just teasing you on the verdigris. Be careful with ultrasonic cleaners, they can eat the chrome. I am sort of OCD (but not like @buddhasummer), I wax the air barrel with Johnson Paste Wax or similar. Helps to stave off corrosion/verdigris.

 

[crofrog]

I would not use silicone in a regulator that is going to see use with an elevated FO2