You’ve known me for almost 3 years why are you mad?
Halcyon H75P + Halo (weird?) cranking effort
- Thread starter estresao
- Start date
Please register or login
Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.
Benefits of registering include
- Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
- A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
- You can make this box go away
- Messages
- 17,311
- Reaction score
- 9,519
- Location
- Somewhere between here and there
- # of dives
- 2500 - 4999
I think your madness is mistaken for your passion.No, I mean mad as is in crazy not angry
- Messages
- 17,311
- Reaction score
- 9,519
- Location
- Somewhere between here and there
- # of dives
- 2500 - 4999
That's nice, I like that. Thank you.
Just as an FYI 1 of the 3 of my halos was doing it, and all the crack pressures were 1.2ish I don't like to go much lower than that because of scootering and what not, I disassembled the barrel, cleaned and regreased everything with tribolube 71 and all good now.
- Messages
- 17,311
- Reaction score
- 9,519
- Location
- Somewhere between here and there
- # of dives
- 2500 - 4999
The more I think about this, some more guesstimating 
, the seat is bound to be damaged or cut and/or the orifice is damaged. The suggestions to recheck the lever height are spot on at this point.
If these have the plastic nylon white orifice it might just be worn out. If these are the brass and chrome orifice it is possibly worn, nicked or otherwise damaged. Turning the orifice into the seat without pressing the purge button or pressing the lever downward will usually cut the seat or indent it so deeply as to ruin it. The balance chamber O-rings aside (easy to check), the only explanation that checks all the boxes for the "shifting gears" breathing and the high cracking force over three inches is a bad seat or orifice or both assuming there is not a major assembly or wrong part error.
I am discounting the springs because presumably at one time these regs worked okay and now they do not, springs get weaker, not stronger so I am dismissing the springs.
James
, the seat is bound to be damaged or cut and/or the orifice is damaged. The suggestions to recheck the lever height are spot on at this point. If these have the plastic nylon white orifice it might just be worn out. If these are the brass and chrome orifice it is possibly worn, nicked or otherwise damaged. Turning the orifice into the seat without pressing the purge button or pressing the lever downward will usually cut the seat or indent it so deeply as to ruin it. The balance chamber O-rings aside (easy to check), the only explanation that checks all the boxes for the "shifting gears" breathing and the high cracking force over three inches is a bad seat or orifice or both assuming there is not a major assembly or wrong part error.
I am discounting the springs because presumably at one time these regs worked okay and now they do not, springs get weaker, not stronger so I am dismissing the springs.
James
- Messages
- 17,311
- Reaction score
- 9,519
- Location
- Somewhere between here and there
- # of dives
- 2500 - 4999
Agree, my money at this stage is on seat/orifice being the root cause. Look at orifice with jewellers loupe and run your finger nail around edge feeling for nicks.
How is your lever height though?
FWIW I've moved over to the plastic orifice as a) it's much cheaper and b) it doesn't corrode.
How is your lever height though?
FWIW I've moved over to the plastic orifice as a) it's much cheaper and b) it doesn't corrode.
I like the plastic orifice also and they seem not so prone to cutting or indenting the seat (but they can and do).
- Messages
- 17,311
- Reaction score
- 9,519
- Location
- Somewhere between here and there
- # of dives
- 2500 - 4999
PS when servicing a regulator do not remove lever unless it's an issue. Ditto exhaust valve.
Similar threads
