Halcyon H75P + Halo (weird?) cranking effort
- Thread starter estresao
- Start date
Please register or login
Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.
Benefits of registering include
- Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
- A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
- You can make this box go away
Last year I was trying to find replacements for unusual sized poppet orings for a second stage balanced poppet.
A very slight difference in oring size was enough to drastically affect performance.
A good call by Nemrod to verify correct size was provided in the aftermarket kit, however unlikely that may be.
Perhaps easier to source the orings rather than buying the full OEM kit.
If the Halo uses same poppet oring as G250V then oring size is .1mm x 2.2mm.
I can send a couple Scubapro OEM .1mm x 2.2mm in the mail gratis if you have trouble finding them locally in Spain, postage will be less than $2.
If the Halo uses same poppet oring as G250V then oring size is .1mm x 2.2mm.
I can send a couple Scubapro OEM .1mm x 2.2mm in the mail gratis if you have trouble finding them locally in Spain, postage will be less than $2.
I doubt o-ring sized I've used were different because the method I follow to service my kits: I take apart the reg and put all of them in a logical order to take a picture and remember where was what (even if the gear I'm servicing is as easy as this reg. Then I put new kit part rigth below to each correspondent one to be replace to ensure sizes are OK... and then I remove old parts.
If they were different I would notice it easily... mainly popet orings which are thin.
I'd say it could be a lubrication problem? probably I used not too much?. I used Chritolube but, to be honest, they could get silicon with no problem because they will never be used with more than 32% (ish) of oxigen (ua contrary of my deco stages)
If they were different I would notice it easily... mainly popet orings which are thin.
I'd say it could be a lubrication problem? probably I used not too much?. I used Chritolube but, to be honest, they could get silicon with no problem because they will never be used with more than 32% (ish) of oxigen (ua contrary of my deco stages)
- Messages
- 17,617
- Reaction score
- 9,880
- Location
- Somewhere between here and there
- # of dives
- 2500 - 4999
If your regs are cracking at 3" and your lever is just "kissing" or a hair below diaphragm then, as has been already said, something is very very wrong. Can you post a photo of lever with diaphragm off under pressure, I'm finding it hard to believe lever is set correctly but cracking that high. Did I read correctly you removed lever? If so I'd be concerned you bent it. About how many mm does it take pressing the purge button before it cracks?
Happy to hook up via FaceTime or Skype to try and assist "face to face".
Happy to hook up via FaceTime or Skype to try and assist "face to face".
- Messages
- 17,617
- Reaction score
- 9,880
- Location
- Somewhere between here and there
- # of dives
- 2500 - 4999
Easy enough to check O rings, do the bounce test to ensure balance chamber is bouncing freely. Remove spring from poppet, seal off hole in seat with your finger, put balance chamber on and gently push it down, it should spring (bounce) back freely. I usually put my poppet seat facing down on a flat surface, glass is best as almost always actually flat.
@estresao, Simon has given good advice and a kind offer. You have an assembly error or bent lever or such as that IMO. Those regs should be flowing air long before where I am seeing them crack on the video.
Where is the Magnehelic line hooked up? I squish a piece of PVC tube about 1.0 inch long and use a piece of latex tube to connect to the second stage. The feed line is in the side of the PVC tube. Drawing a smooth suction is needed to get an accurate reading. Still, what I am seeing in your video is not acceptable.
Shhhh, a lot of us have gone back to silicone for under 40% Nitrox. I do not think lubrication of the balance chamber/poppet is the issue really but the bounce test should clear that up for you as was suggested. The balance chamber should move smoothly and pop back up easily when compressed with the hole in the seat blocked off (the glass or similar trick is a good one).
James
Where is the Magnehelic line hooked up? I squish a piece of PVC tube about 1.0 inch long and use a piece of latex tube to connect to the second stage. The feed line is in the side of the PVC tube. Drawing a smooth suction is needed to get an accurate reading. Still, what I am seeing in your video is not acceptable.
Shhhh, a lot of us have gone back to silicone for under 40% Nitrox. I do not think lubrication of the balance chamber/poppet is the issue really but the bounce test should clear that up for you as was suggested. The balance chamber should move smoothly and pop back up easily when compressed with the hole in the seat blocked off (the glass or similar trick is a good one).
James
If you installed your poppet and didn’t have the lever in the right position, it’s a possibility that you cut your seat with the lever feet, and you’ll have to screwing in the orifice much further than normal to stop the leak. The consequences is a low lever which is dangerous.
Check your lever height as suggested above.
Check your lever height as suggested above.
Similar threads
