DIY dive gear successes and failures

[canuckdiver]

I figured that there may be a number of individuals in here that are like me, in that they derive enjoyment from making and modifying just about EVERYTHING in our lives! LOL

I'd like to hear other people's experiences with building/modifying dive gear.

I'll start the ball rolling by saying that so far I have had great results with a home-built camera housing for disposable cameras, and so far (testing not fully complete) with my underwater spotlight project, built from a Q-beam maxamillion 1,000,000 candlepower spotlight.

my results with my drysuit have been a bit of a mixed bag so far however. Had no problems with changing the wrist and neck seals myself, as well as relocating the dump valve myself. Changing the boots, however did not work out the way that I had expected.

anybody else got any good stories?

 

[JeffG]

Aquashot II - Replaced disposable camera with a Kodak Easyload 35 (real camera)

Partial Success - Takes pictures
Partial Failure: Did not test and wasted 4 rolls with an overexposed top part of the picture, due to the camera flash "bouncing" around the housing.

Alum BP - In progress - being bent as we speak

50W Halogen Canister Light - In progress

 

[canuckdiver]

camera housing looks great jeff, very well done!

what kind of setup are you working on for the light?

I'm working on one now with a 50W MR16 bulb in a maglite head, and a pvc canister. Only problem I am having is getting the maglite head to seal properly, I've bonded a 3/16" lexan lens in place of the thin plastic one that came in it, and it is bonded to the "ring" that holds the lens in place, but the problem seems to be that water is seeping past the o-ring that is supposed to seal the ring to the housing.

I'm not sure if I should attempt to put a thicker o-ring in place, or put two o-rings on each side of the reflector on the MR16 bulb?

 

[JeffG]

canuckdiver once bubbled...
camera housing looks great jeff, very well done!

what kind of setup are you working on for the light?

I'm working on one now with a 50W MR16 bulb in a maglite head, and a pvc canister. Only problem I am having is getting the maglite head to seal properly, I've bonded a 3/16" lexan lens in place of the thin plastic one that came in it, and it is bonded to the "ring" that holds the lens in place, but the problem seems to be that water is seeping past the o-ring that is supposed to seal the ring to the housing.

I'm not sure if I should attempt to put a thicker o-ring in place, or put two o-rings on each side of the reflector on the MR16 bulb?

Camera Mods.....It sayed me a Bundle, but I still take the pictures from too far away.;-0 One day, I will get better.

Canister Light - Same setup Maglite MR16 bulb, pvc pipe (stole the idea from an earlier thread) You have progressed farther than I have so I have not had that problem yet. (I postponed the canister light, I did my BP first, and the wife wants a new shower downstairs.....) Oh well, it will be at least six weeks before this snow melts and any diving can be done.

Jeff

 

[nickjb]

My first aluminium backplate was pretty good. My second one is great. I was pleased how well that went.

My dry gloves were a complete failure.

My Suunto interface and PDA software worked, which was more than I dared to hope for

My cannister light is progressing well. I'm using a maglite head and a cannister I found in the road . I've since found out it is part or a electricity pylon. Hopefully it'll be ready in a week or so.

Next project is a video camera housing for shallow use. Probably.

 

[Dectek]

I am working on the same project " Thanks To Scott". I think you may want to go to a thinner lens from piece of Glass (1/8) because of heat. If you put an oring between the MR16 and the glass in addition to the Oring between the glass and outer ring you may have better luck. This way the oring that is down by the threads on the outside becomes moot. It just really helps the ring from unscrewing.
Did you find a supplier for the liquid tight fittings with strain releif besides Sealcon?

 

[canuckdiver]

Dectek once bubbled...
I am working on the same project " Thanks To Scott". I think you may want to go to a thinner lens from piece of Glass (1/8) because of heat. If you put an oring between the MR16 and the glass in addition to the Oring between the glass and outer ring you may have better luck. This way the oring that is down by the threads on the outside becomes moot. It just really helps the ring from unscrewing.
Did you find a supplier for the liquid tight fittings with strain releif besides Sealcon?

wouldn't glass be a bit brittle for this kind of use? I would think that it would run a higher risk of breaking due to the pressure?

The 3/16 lexan (or acrylic) is what was suggested in airspeedpress's book, so that's where I got that idea
If I put an oring between the glass and the bulb, what is then to prevent water from getting past the bulb into the housing?

for the cable fittings, I have had really good results using compression fittings for tubing, and then putting heat-shrink tubing over them for strain relief.

 

[JeffG]

canuckdiver once bubbled...



wouldn't glass be a bit brittle for this kind of use? I would think that it would run a higher risk of breaking due to the pressure?

The 3/16 lexan (or acrylic) is what was suggested in airspeedpress's book, so that's where I got that idea
If I put an oring between the glass and the bulb, what is then to prevent water from getting past the bulb into the housing?

for the cable fittings, I have had really good results using compression fittings for tubing, and then putting heat-shrink tubing over them for strain relief.

I am working on the same project " Thanks To Scott". I think you may want to go to a thinner lens from piece of Glass (1/8) because of heat. If you put an oring between the MR16 and the glass in addition to the Oring between the glass and outer ring you may have better luck. This way the oring that is down by the threads on the outside becomes moot. It just really helps the ring from unscrewing.

Interesting. I was going to use some tempered glass from an old mask. My friend has a stained glass kit (with cutters and a grinding wheel) and I was going to cut it into a circle.

The MR16 generate alot of heat and I was unsure what wouldn't melt.

Connectors: I am using plumbing compression fittings and scuba hose guards as strain relief. (All untested of course)

Jeff

 

[Dectek]

for the tempered glass. Most fire/police supply placed sell the lens for the rechargeable Maglights for a couple of dollars. You can also get one at Z Battery for $2.15 usd http://www.zbattery.com/108-081.html.
Have you looked at PadiPro's plans and instructions for his light?
He suggests recessing the area where the reflector sits so that the MR16 sits a little lower allowing the orings to do their job.
I will not post his plans on the net for obvious reasons, but they look good.

 

[canuckdiver]

hmm, on my maglite head, there is a recess for the reflector that fits the mr 16 like it was made for it it allows the "glass" to sit against the aluminum body, rather than touching the glass reflector.
What I did was to bond the "glass" to the retaining ring, so that there was no possibility of a leak there.
Now the problem seems to be that water is getting past the oring on the body, seeping past the threads, and getting into the body of the lighthead. I have checked the seal between the glass and the ring, and it is good, even under pressure (mouth supplied)
The other option I was thinking of, was to use plumbing tape on the threads to seal them up tight ?