Regulator failure on a solo deco dive

[Bigbella]

That's what is in the manual

Aren't Poseidon's like a completely different animal though? (I've never owned one, but have heard they're different).

I don't doubt that that is in the manual; but many changes / corrections have also been made to Poseidon specifications over the years.

In terms of real differences, you'd be surprised -- the Poseidon first stages, at least, aside from the MK3 (Xstream), are not that dissimilar from other makes; nothing too exotic; parts are all easily recognizable between brands; and ScubaPro, which has quite a presence on SB, had also called for similar, even higher torque settings, on some of their models, of 27-31 ft/lbs . . .

 

[BoltSnap]

For the SP MK25, the DIN retainer and Yoke retainer Torque spec is 30Nm/266 lb in/22 lbs ft (same for MK19)

For port plug (HP and LP): 5Nm/44 lb in


Atomic DIN Nipple: 21 ft lbs./252 lb in/28.47 Nm

 

[Jeff_O]

Can that possibly be right, without some conversion error somewhere?

80 inch pounds, if that's what we're talking about, is only about 9 nm -- far too loose for any connection stem and little more, really, than the tightness of blind screws at 6; and 80 foot pounds is almost 109 nm -- more than three and a half times the tightest torque specifications of any of my regulators, at 30 nm -- and really entering the automotive realm, in terms of torque.

For example, a lug nut is usually tightened to between 70 and 80 foot pounds.

That's a lot to expect of brass, which could be easily destroyed by just the clumsy use of o-ring removers and dental picks . . .

Not that this is specifically on topic, but the removal of oring with detal pick is what I have seen used and don't trust it being used. Could a thin piece of flat plastic (maybe expired credit card) be used. Try slipping underneath oring to the pry oring out. On some use of orings I found just using fingers to pinch (scrunch) to get a grab hold to remove the oring. Just thinking.

 

[chillyinCanada]

@rsingler

 

[rob.mwpropane]

I don't doubt that that is in the manual; but many changes / corrections have also been made to Poseidon specifications over the years.

In terms of real differences, you'd be surprised -- the Poseidon first stages, at least, aside from the MK3 (Xstream), are not that dissimilar from other makes; nothing too exotic; parts are all easily recognizable between brands; and ScubaPro, which has quite a presence on SB, had also called for similar, even higher torque settings, on some of their models, of 27-31 ft/lbs . . .

For the SP MK25, the DIN retainer and Yoke retainer Torque spec is 30Nm/266 lb in/22 lbs ft (same for MK19)

For port plug (HP and LP): 5Nm/44 lb in


Atomic DIN Nipple: 21 ft lbs./252 lb in/28.47 Nm

I hope my inexperience and lack of knowledge doesn't have me sighting the wrong parts. Here's direct from the manual.

Furthermore.. why can't we agree on a set torque? Is it common to just convert from in lbs, to ft lbs, to nm and back again? Honest question? Or is it just because there are different torque wrenches?

I bought what I needed to rebuild my personal regs. I'm sure I could work on a lot of other ones with what I have but I like only having one set of rebuild kits, and one "model" to work on so to speak.

 

[MarkA]

Furthermore.. why can't we agree on a set torque? Is it common to just convert from in lbs, to ft lbs, to nm and back again? Honest question? Or is it just because there are different torque wrenches?

You have opened a can of worms there. It’s only a problem in the USA. Most of the rest of the world use Nm.
Newton = force. metre = length. So is used in metric places.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

You have opened a can of worms there. It’s only a problem in the USA. Most of the rest of the world use Nm.
Newton = force. metre = length. So is used in metric places.

I figured it was something like that

 

[Stoo]

Respectfully, this wasn't a reg failure. It was diver error. When you discovered the problem with your reg, you should have taken 5 minutes to track down an Allen key and tighten it properly. That would have avoided the entire event.

Bonus points for managing it appropriately. Definitely an argument in favour of sidemount. I"m glad it all worked out well, but that loose bit isn't all that uncommon, and checking it should be part of any pre-dive check. It's normally fixed with a twist of a wrench unless it's so loose that the o-ring on the other end has unseated.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

Respectfully, this wasn't a reg failure. It was diver error. When you discovered the problem with your reg, you should have taken 5 minutes to track down an Allen key and tighten it properly. That would have avoided the entire event.

Bonus points for managing it appropriately. Definitely an argument in favour of sidemount. I"m glad it all worked out well, but that loose bit isn't all that uncommon, and checking it should be part of any pre-dive check. It's normally fixed with a twist of a wrench unless it's so loose that the o-ring on the other end has unseated.

I've gotten into the habit of trying to apply a little pressure to the reg once it's on looking to see if it's loose at all. Not enough to.turn it, just enough to see if it's loose. I think you just get a feel for that over time.

Agreed.. 5 min fix if you've never done it before. Maybe 45s if you have.

 

[Stoo]

I've gotten into the habit of trying to apply a little pressure to the reg once it's on looking to see if it's loose at all. Not enough to.turn it, just enough to see if it's loose. I think you just get a feel for that over time.

Agreed.. 5 min fix if you've never done it before. Maybe 45s if you have.

You just need to be careful doing that. I sometimes think that the main reason these things get loose in the first place... using the first stage as a lever to take it off the tank.

And ya, 45 seconds is right. I said 5 minutes to allow time to track the Allen key down... ;-)