Atomic regs/cold water?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

brsnow

Contributor
Messages
912
Reaction score
638
Location
Denver
# of dives
200 - 499
Hi, I currently use Z2 for primary and o to, not sealed first stage, historically only warm water. Starting to dive Monterey in July and a couple times a year going forward. I travel there for work.

Seems I might need a sealed 1st there? If so any recommendations between m1 and B2? I would run 90 degree elbow on 2nd. I already use M1 exhaust on my z2’s.

Goal is to have 2 reg sets that work well for warm and cold water if possible and as travel friendly as possible.
Thank you
 
While Monterey is cold it’s not freeze worry cold. I like sealed firsts to keep the gritty stuff out, any diving that requires freeze considerations is diving that I’m not going to do because
03F96493-7272-495B-9341-9F11EF332708.jpeg
it’s the middle ofMay and I’m still burning I’m not into cold!
 
1. You can always seal the Z2 first stage, you can do it in the next service. I doubt that CA ocean water is cold enough to warrant special cold water regulator but this is something local divers will help you with.

2. I'd get an M1 before a B2 myself.
 
Hi, I currently use Z2 for primary and o to, not sealed first stage, historically only warm water. Starting to dive Monterey in July and a couple times a year going forward. I travel there for work.

Seems I might need a sealed 1st there? If so any recommendations between m1 and B2? I would run 90 degree elbow on 2nd. I already use M1 exhaust on my z2’s.

Goal is to have 2 reg sets that work well for warm and cold water if possible and as travel friendly as possible.
Thank you
I am with you. Monterey is about my limit temperature wise but appears to have pretty amazing environment
 
1. You can always seal the Z2 first stage, you can do it in the next service. I doubt that CA ocean water is cold enough to warrant special cold water regulator but this is something local divers will help you with.

2. I'd get an M1 before a B2 myself.
I will probably get the first sealed, was ultimately thinking of ending up with two sets of regs using my current z2’s as octos
 
Seems I might need a sealed 1st there?
My favorite topic!
IMO, you most certainly need a sealed first stage for Monterey. I dive there lots. But it's not for the temp. It's for the floaty CA sand that sneaks in the ambient holes on beach entry or in shallow water, that then sticks inside and scrapes away at the chrome no matter how well you think you are rinsing your reg after a dive.
See Post in thread Piston or diaphragm

And I sealed my Z2. If you don't need the turret, no need to spend the $$ for a new reg.
IMG_20220511_191414.jpg
 
My favorite topic!
IMO, you most certainly need a sealed first stage for Monterey. I dive there lots. But it's not for the temp. It's for the floaty CA sand that sneaks in the ambient holes on beach entry or in shallow water, that then sticks inside and scrapes away at the chrome no matter how well you think you are rinsing your reg after a dive.
See Post in thread Piston or diaphragm

And I sealed my Z2. If you don't need the turret, no need to spend the $$ for a new reg.
View attachment 722127
Thank you,
 
My favorite topic!
IMO, you most certainly need a sealed first stage for Monterey. I dive there lots. But it's not for the temp. It's for the floaty CA sand that sneaks in the ambient holes on beach entry or in shallow water, that then sticks inside and scrapes away at the chrome no matter how well you think you are rinsing your reg after a dive.
See Post in thread Piston or diaphragm

And I sealed my Z2. If you don't need the turret, no need to spend the $$ for a new reg.
View attachment 722127
I'd love a video of the sealing process if you can recommend one. I'm about to undertake the matter using the Atomic tool, but understand you may prefer using a syringe?
 
I think the tool still leaves voids.

Sure. I'll make a video and post that.
It's pretty straightforward.
Get a syringe and blunt needle. I can send you some plastic blunt needles that are perfect if you need one.

Starting at the bottom coil, fill the spring from the inside out, working your way up to the top. Add a thin layer to the outside of the spring.

Put the environmental seal on the reg after putting a thin line of lube circumferentially in each corner of the seal. Don't try to fill it.

Fill the ring deep in the body where the spring end will rest. This will displace lube UP toward the holes as you assemble.

Run a line of lube in between each ambient hole of the interior of the reg body up to the rim.

All this will take approx 8cc of lube.

20220307_184144.jpg


Slowly insert the piston and bullet until the spring bottoms. If you haven't been liberal enough, manually press on the piston head until goop and (hopefully few) bubbles almost start to squeeze around the head. After you release pressure, fill the gap between head and reg body,
20220307_184318.jpg

and wipe out to a clean line (you don't want much spilling into the IP chamber, tho some will).

Add the turret and slowly screw on.
You'll hear the seal click and pop as air in the seal escapes. Massage the seal before the cap is completely screwed on to distribute lube that has come out the ambient holes.

Finish screwing on the turret. The seal should be bulging slightly. Using a pinch technique like for removing an oring, squeeze the seal to express excess lube and any stray bubbles until it is just slightly concave.

Assuming you previously assembled, checked IP stability and disassembled the first stage before filling, repressurize it. The seal will once again bulge. Express excess lube again (wiping your fingertip against the rim of some small container where you keep your excess for the next six years of orings), until the seal is just flat when pressurized. This technique will waste approx 1.5cc of lube.

When you depressurize, it will suck in firmly concave. You're done.

But the extent to which the Atomic seal goes from full and flat (pressurized) to really concave (unpressurized) shows why I keep a spare 2cc syringe of lube around to top up the seal every 3-6 months of diving. Unless you are really careful about not handling the seal when pressurized, you'll inadvertently squeeze out some lube on a dive trip, and a small bubble of air will replace it under the seal when off the tank. That's not really an issue, because it's all outside the spring mechanism. But it does fractionally reduce the responsiveness of the reg to ambient pressure.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

Back
Top Bottom