YOKE vs DIN

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I deal with that before I leave the dock.
Would you take your impact wrench to Belize? If not, doesn't matter on the boat or at the dive center. You are going to need time and not having the right size is going to strip the insert. I let the dive guides do that.
 
While the rest of us know it as BSPP British Standard Pipe Parallel.
Terminology changes over time. Recently I couldn't find an 8mm acme thread tap. It is now called a tr8-2, for trapezoidal. I've had to deal with various thread standards since I first worked in a garage back in 1969. SAE, BS, metric, and even Whitworth, the various pipe threads and even acme. Sometimes you would find more than one standard on the same vehicle. I grew up with this way before there was a Google to allow me to look it up and be book smart without having ever used a tap or die.

FWIW, my tr8-2 should be here by Wednesday. I need it to build an automatic blast gate for dust collection on my table saw. I'm going to use it, a lead screw, an ESP32, and a couple of limit switches.
 
Would you take your impact wrench to Belize?
No. My hands are usually skilled enough to work with the tools available or i all for another tank. I won't even take the tank vise that I made.

BTW, if I have a very stubborn insert, I'll ask if they have a set of torx. Go to the next size of the one that easily slips in. Tap it in gently with a hammer and then bump it loose with a 3/8" ratchet. Almost as good as an impact driver.

BTW, #2... someone said to use wd-40. Hell no. I don't want to chance breathing those vapors at depth. Yeeeesh!
 
I can imagine when a group of German engineers/divers saw the standard yoke valves for the first time. Buch of guys shaking their heads and thinking : "Well, this merits some small level of interest - but we can do so much better". Then they went and made Deutsch Industrie Norm - and voila - DIN was born.
 
Then they went and made Deutsch Industrie Norm - and voila - DIN was born.
But why did they use a british thread over a merrick one? Moreover, the valve is American by design.
 
Please cite where I posted that. In fact, I pointed out that not all Americans are the same. Why assign a concept to me that I have never expressed?


For the record, I'm Columbian as well as American and proud of both. I don't believe in American exceptionalism and never have. I'm a world citizen.

Who cares what size Allen wrench you need? 8mm is close to 5/16" and 7mm is close to 1/4". I've also encountered 3/8", which has no metric equivalent. Given that the outer thread is BPS (Britsh Pipe Straight), it would be my guess that they were intended to be imperial. Metric wrenches work simply because they are close enough.
It is ok Peter, you should read your own posts again, if you don't understand the way you are addressing things, I am really sorry.

I am a World Citizen as well. I'm Greek, lived in Portugal, Spain and now Germany. In my line of work, I've been an Area Manager for the Americas, Asia & Pacific. Travelled the world, literally.

Who cares what size Allen wrench you need? 8mm is close to 5/16" and 7mm is close to 1/4". I've also encountered 3/8", which has no metric equivalent. Given that the outer thread is BPS (Britsh Pipe Straight), it would be my guess that they were intended to be imperial. Metric wrenches work simply because they are close enough.

@BigDaddyGlad does, he wanted to know what size allen hex key he needs. DIN Metric wrenches work because the DIN STD is German. Other countries - like the US have - developed / adopted their own Imperial versions.

All and all and especially as you are part of the staff, perhaps some of you guys should revise slightly the way members are treated here. As I previously wrote, it seems that some folks, part of the 'Old Guard' cannot be contradicted. IMO that's not the way an open forum should operate.

You personally accused me of trying to 'politicize' the DIN vs YOKE topic just because I dared to say that 'Americans are used to' (!) while if you browse the Internet, this is stated in multiple sources... interesting and disappointing. We are all here because we love Scuba Diving, some seem to forget that. That's sad.
 
You are spot on with your statement regarding DIN

But consider also a couple of additional engineering design considerations.
1. Watch carefully and notice the "flex"when pressurising a standard American Yoke design
the A clamp portion can be seen to move, to flex when working pressure is applied.

2. This adds stress over strain to the A clamp resulting in a design that requires the retaining 0-ring to extrude first prior to the clamp cracking when stress over strain results with fatigue. While a poorer design
may engineer in less movement stress but allow more strain and result in a premature crack release of pressure on failure.

3. Also note that the material used is commonly CZ122 as opposed to the ZCZ121 used in most recreational scuba regulator bodies to allow for the A clamp to be manufactured as a Hot Brass Stamping

4. By way of example the American manufactured Conshef XIV Supreme the A Clamp is stamped for 4000 psi However on testing it was found that it failed at a 10% over load of rated pressure
The main reason why the American design failed the Royal Navy Test procedure and was required to be re designed to meet the Manufacturing Inspection and Test Procedure for the Royal Navy.

5. The quality of the O-rings is also a major factor in failure, with most American supplied products being supplied under Recreational Sports Equipment and NOT Life Support Equipment by using compounds from China and some even manufactured in China with more carbon black (filler) in them than compound using old polymers and out of tolerance dimensions.

No different to the 40% Nitrox is safe ******** with an oil lubricated air compressor that no one will run 50% into and cave fills I guess
You are totally right.

My position was and still is that the US uses predominantly YOKE valves because that's the way new divers are introduced to the Sport and the majority of Dive Centers rent bottles with INT valves and refuse to invest in a hybrid solution (new tank valves with 'donut' inserts).

DIN has many advantages over YOKE as described / recognized publicly in several articles, not my personal opinion. It also happens that I totally agree with them and that's why I use DIN.
I also accept that some divers prefer YOKE because they are familiar with it, heavily invested in the system, prefer the A-clamp when wet (some DIN wheels can be a pain), etc. This is were the issues derived, many cannot differentiate FACTS from PERSONAL PREFRENCES. The way I learned Diving, SAFETY comes first, everything else second.

As you very correctly stated, YOKE O-rings are much more prone to failure due to their construction. We've all seen it, some just choose to ignore it. As I previously wrote, I like to be in charge of my own O-ring instead of being at the mercy of the Dive OP and whatever tanks are available on the dive boat... sure you can also carry spare O-rings and a removal tool each time. My DIN O-ring has never failed me in +20 years, that's all I know.

DIN will become the new standard over time, the same way the double hose was replaced by the single hose, dive computers are replacing SPGs, etc. Change makes people uncomfortable, especially old people (I'm 49 so no chicken spring either). You can see / feel that also in the States, from the comments in this forum or just by browsing the Internet. 15 years ago, DIN was practically unknown in the US.
 
No. My hands are usually skilled enough to work with the tools available or i all for another tank. I won't even take the tank vise that I made.

BTW, if I have a very stubborn insert, I'll ask if they have a set of torx. Go to the next size of the one that easily slips in. Tap it in gently with a hammer and then bump it loose with a 3/8" ratchet. Almost as good as an impact driver.

BTW, #2... someone said to use wd-40. Hell no. I don't want to chance breathing those vapors at depth. Yeeeesh!
A little W-40 and heat are used to remove stubborn / stuck inserts in order to try to avoid permanent damage to the cylinder valve threads by using excessive force with a wrench. Galvanic corrosion is a things when using different metals and not all valve threads are made of brass. That's why some adaptors get fused together (you probably now this better than me as you said you have welding experience).

The contamination will not enter the tank as long as it is pressurized but in any case, you are supposed to clean thoroughly the valve prior to usage. Alcohol and a few swabs work wonders if dismantling the valve is not an option. Never had any issue.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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