xcalak or cozumel- diving?

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BUGS.

Bugs and more bugs. That's what would keep me from going back. We stayed at Mahauhal several years ago. Sure it had it's charms and wasn't Xcalak but is close and it's a wild and woolly area. Problem is going outside puts YOU on the menu. TheTabano's are yellow deer flies that are horrible nasty biting insects that won't leave your alone. My wife got orange sized welts from them. I also got stung on the a$$ by a (obviously) non-lethal scorpion that was in the bed sheets.
Food is good, there are Mennonites I was told in Belize (and Mexico) that supply awesome fresh cheese and chorizo. We had some awesome omelettes every morning.

Didn't dive then BUT we did make it to Chinchorro! THAT's a cool place. I booked the date months in advance and it turned out to be only decent sea day of our 10 day stay. They did want to move the date as it was after father's day and they like to sleep their hangovers away, but I said no and lucky I did.

Did I mention the teeny tiny ants bite too?

The beaches down that way are insane, miles and miles of wide open beautiful -but- garbage strewn beaches. Sad the amount of garbage in the oceans. And what's with all the flip flops? We had lots of fun collecting sea beans, we couldn't do much in the water due to a tropical storm leaving behind a wind storm that stuck around for a week afterward.

You will pass through some nice towns and villages with chances to buy lemons, mango's, pineapples depending on season of course. Bacalar is a nice town with a fort from the 1600's I believe.

And if you rent a car make sure they give you the lug that allows the spare to be taken off if you get a jeep (4X4's are good idea).

There isn't the marine park like in Coz so the big fish are gone, the groupers (aka the "crunch" in Chinchorro) are MIA.

It was a memorable vacation but not a place we would ever go back to, Cozumel is fun with a good dive/cost/ease ratio.

I've never had a serious problems with the bugs at Costa Maya, no more so than any other tropical locations. Want sand flies, go to Roatan, they'll eat you alive at sundown! I'd rather put DEET on that have trucks driving by spraying DDT in a fog. As with anyway tropical, when the winds die down after a rain, the bugs come out. The entire coast around Xcalak is a marine park,Xcalak Reef National Marine Park:
xcalakzonemap_m.gif
 
TheTabano's are yellow deer flies that are horrible nasty biting insects that won't leave your alone. My wife got orange sized welts from them.
Last May when we were on Cozumel a bug lit on my wife's finger; it had a yellow body with clear and brown mottled swept back wings. She though it was a moth and let it stay while she tried to get her camera to get a picture of it, but it flew off before she could do that. She never felt it bite her but the next day and for about a week her finger itched horribly and looked like she had smashed it with a hammer. Tabano, maybe?
 
We rented a casa in Mahahual a few clicks down the beach road. The bugs were infernal, probably due to the location and time of year. All I know is Coz in Dec is totally bug free. Tabano's also don't leave you alone, they will keep buzzing around until they have got their fill. I did hear a story that someone passed out drunk outside at nigjt and had to be admitted to hospital from Tabano bites.

Useful newsletter for the Costa maya area.
Costa Maya Newsletter, Mahahual, Placer, Xcalak Uvero- 5-2014

Didn't know the area was a Marine park.
 
@Asrael -

Late to the thread but you're getting lots of sound advice. I'll add my 2 cents...

My first trip to Yucatan was in 1986. I drove down from Seattle along the Pacific Coast of Mexico and back via the east coast of Mexico, living out of my VW camper van for 3 months. I spent a good part of that trip around Yucatan, did my very first post-certification dives on Cozumel. Since then I've gone diving across a large part of the world (not everywhere, but some of the well-known bucket-list destinations divers crave most). Diving in Cozumel is not the best diving in the world, but it's probably the best overall diving vacation experience in the western hemisphere. To beat it, you would need to fly to the far sied of the planet (take about 2 days getting there) and spend big bucks. If you want great diving, and a really nice overall experience without the investment of flying to remote Indonesia or some flyspeck island in the south Pacific, Cozumel is where you want to go. It's easy, it's not crazy expensive, the food and restaurant scene is fantastic, it is as close to perfect as you will find.

Don't worry bout "drift diving" or your skill level - diving there is really easy (drift diving means: the current generally does most of the work for you, just stay with your group and enjoy the scenery as it goes by).

Cruise ship and crowds? Nobody detests them more than me. They are generally easy to avoid in Cozumel, as most of them are usually confined to specific areas and times. While crass commercialism is surely evident all over town, San Miguel somehow (and surprisingly) retains pretty much all the charm of any relatively small but prospering Mexican city. I like the place (once the cruisers leave, as they do every day). It's authentic. Not perfect (what town is?) but it's a good place. The restaurant scene is amazing.

Development along the coast of Yucatan has exploded in the past 30 years. I hardly recognize some places. In many places, it's Mass Tourism at its worst. But it's not like that everywhere. Some of the world-class gems are still gems (you just may need to be smart about how/when you show up).

I agree that just 2 days diving in Cozumel will break your heart. I made that mistake on my first trip; I've been back maybe 10 times across the intervening years (with some long gaps) and each time I go, I add more dive days. I'll be going in mid-February and will be diving for 7 or 8 days, which seems about right. It would be easy to stay and dive longer.

I've been throughout Yucatan. There's some OK-to-pretty good diving elsewhere, but IME no place else is so good, nor such a great combination. I've been pretty much everywhere in Yucatan with a coastline. I went to Xcalak about 20 years ago. Wanted to dive Chinchorro but was never able to (I see a pattern here...). While it was cool to be in Xcalak (a true "end of the road, end of the earth" place) it was not well developed for tourism at the time (no central electricity, off the grid, solar/wind power + diesel generator). There's just not much to do there. I understand it has developed somewhat since then, but based on what I've seen/heard online, is still very much an edge experience. That said, they have built a cruise ship pier in nearby Majual, so...

For a wonderful "beach experience" Cozumel isn't utterly spectacular. The wild west side beaches are beautiful but the surf is often dangerous - it's beautiful but be careful. But there are enough beaches that are pretty nice so that when you're not diving or eating you can get your beach fix.

If you, like me, love diving plus other cool things, it's tough to beat a trip that includes a dive portion on Cozumel, then ferry over to Playa del Carmen, rent a car, then drive around the Yucatan checking out the ruins (there are lots) and other interesting things. Mexico is a huge, diverse, and fascinating country (which has an un-deserved bad reputation). Yucatan holds many of its best attractions.

If you have two weeks...you can do a lot. My suggestions would be: first, see if you can add a few more days (sorry, there's just so much to see and do, all right there)...

Start with maybe 6 days on Cozumel. Ferry to Playa del Carmen, pick up your rental car, hit the road. With your second week, you should have enough time to cover some of the world's greatest ruin sites, beautiful beaches, caves, unspoiled little Mexican towns, and more. Yes, in some parts of Yucatan you will have to deal with crowds of tourists. If you're smart, you can avoid much of that (hint: most of them are lazy and clueless, so they are at the 5-star attractions from around 10 am to around 3 pm - worst time to be out in the sun anyway; go early/late and most of those dolts will be gone). For the biggest/best ruins (Chichen Itza, Uxmal), time your arrival for late afternoon (as the day-trip buses are leaving), check in to your hotel at the ruins, tour the ruins in the cooler late day.early evening hours, spend the night, get up early, hit the ruins again before the buses roll in, then move on to your next destination. Also mix in some lesser-known sites, maybe some that are too far for the cruise ships or Cancun-based day-trippers (eg Calakmul, Palenque) if you can - these require a nontrivial amount of driving, but they're spectacular.

Your toughest challenge will be which group of ruins, beaches and towns to include in your land excursions, but with 7-8 days (after diving), you can put a good dent in the peninsula's best places.

You will love Cozumel and Mexico's Yucatan. It's one of the world's most amazing regions to visit.
 
Thanks again everyone so much-
So much to think about- :) And thankful I posted here- lots of great info- and It feels like Cozumel is pretty chill- if we stay off the main drag... Will look at the budget and see what we can do for more diving- we don't have our own gear...

Any recs for dive shops (see spoiled me.. used to being on a max 6 person boat with 2 divemasters (sometimes it would just be me and my husband:).

And bugs! I usually don't get affected by them too much- but will come prepared...

Tulum.. Hmmm- only reason we are thinking of going there is cause I love the idea of some beach time... yet I know I will not stay on the beach there- as everything is super pricey-

Wondering if I need to let go of my idea of a few days beach vacation? Unless we go south to Mahahual....

@sefuchs can't go in May- have family visiting- and it is nice and springtime here..even April is a little late for us to go- but don't want to go at Easter, and I have a work commitment til 22nd of March..

@mikeycanuk Thanks for the info on the airport car rental scam:) and the Akumal Cenote

@nwflyboy I think you get what we are looking for- and thanks for the confirmation that I don't need to worry about the driftdiving.. In Hawaii we did have surge and sometimes currents- but not drift diving.. I can be a chicken sometimes (yet I love to dive). We have 2 weeks, part of why we chose Yucatan is the non stop flight from Victoria, it's easy to get too- and don't have a schedule- so can definitely take more time on Cozumel.... and DO want to explore the Yucatan... Any favourite gems you have... beaches, or small towns.. Not sure we will make Palenque.. a little more driving than we like.. but will look at it... but very open to exploring within the Yucatan and off the tourist trail- staying in smaller places and hitting ruins at other times)..

Thank you all again so much ! You really have and are so helpful!
 
For a wonderful "beach experience" Cozumel isn't utterly spectacular. The wild west side beaches are beautiful but the surf is often dangerous - it's beautiful but be careful.

I'm pretty sure you mean the east side. The west side beaches are pretty tame.
 
Thanks again everyone so much-

So much to think about- And thankful I posted here- lots of great info- and It feels like Cozumel is pretty chill- if we stay off the main drag... Will look at the budget and see what we can do for more diving- we don't have our own gear...

Actually, concerns over being "on the main drag" may be overblown. Consider this: the cruise ships come and disgorge their passengers for the day at (I think) a couple locations. Those spots are not right in "downtown" San Miguel, they're a little south of that. Plenty of people come off cruise ships and do wander the city center for a few hours. Most of them don't go too far. A lot of them buy some kind of shore package so they can say they've "been to" Mexico. Many of them go to just a few spots - the most popular, I'd guess, is a well-known snorkeling place, Chankanab. The snorkeling there is not bad (at least the last time I looked, about 10 years ago), but it's a mass tourism thing, 'nuff said. A smaller number actually get in a quick dive or two - a handful of dive ops cater to the cruise passengers and manage to get them diving. Later in the day (usually before dinner), they all get back on the ships, and the ships steam away in the night, off to their next stop.

So while the cruise ship passengers are very obvious there and then, it's not like they flood the whole island or the whole town all day. Most do not get more than a block or two away from the waterfront and the town's main square. If you avoid that specific area, you won't need to deal with them much. Also consider that they are just there for a few hours, and as luck would have it, if you're a diver, you are probably out diving during much of the time they're in town. If you follow most divers example, they won't bother you: get up early, go dive, come back to your hotel sometime after lunch (most ops I've used bring you back between 1-2 pm). Shower, change, maybe relax with a cold one for a few minutes or whatever you do to kick back, and soon it's time to start thinking about dinner. Head into town and you will find that most of the cruisers have gone - they're back on the boat, eating. And San Miguel has mostly reverted to the genuinely pleasant Mexican town it is. If you have a need to go to town during the mid-day crush, just keep 1-2+ blocks away from the zocalo or waterfront, and cruise ship passengers will be as scarce as honest politicians in Washington.

Stay on the main drag? Not really much of an issue. Some divers stay right smack in the middle of town, and they're happy.

There are places to stay all up and down the west side of the island. Most smart folks I know seem to like to stay near town. Most avoid the AI places at the distant south end for a variety of reasons.

I'll go out on a limb and offer one suggestion for a decent mid-range place to stay: Hotel Cozumel. I stayed there back in the 1980s and have been going back pretty much every time I go to Coz (over the years, each time the name changes but not much else). Things I like: Good location (it used to be south of town, but "town" has grown, so now it's on the south edge of town), not right in the center but just a 5 minute walk from the two major shopping places (Cozumel's Walmart equivalent) and an a little further (10 minutes walk) from town center. Great pool (biggest on the island). Reasonable prices. Not much of a beach for swimming (typical of this stretch of the island's coast) but good pier and dive ops will pick you up/drop you off. Best choice is the room+breakfast plan. Don't buy the all-inclusive meal plan (too many great eateries on the island).

There are plenty of other choices to stay at, each has their fans. I think this is a good option for most folks, good for a first-time diving visitor.

Any recs for dive shops (see spoiled me.. used to being on a max 6 person boat with 2 divemasters (sometimes it would just be me and my husband.

Everyone here has their favorite dive op. You will see countless threads extolling their virtues. Scan a few and you will see the obvious handful of top-rated ops. Personally I like Living Underwater but I'm 100% sure I would be very happy with any of the highly-rated boutique ops that people rave about here. How lucky we are to have this plethora of excellent choices. Note: Wherever you stay, they will have their own in-house dive op. You do NOT need to to use that (and most folks here have figured out there are better options). Any good dive op can pick you up/drop you off from any good place to stay, so there's no reason to feel compelled to use the hotel's op.

The good ops that folks here love will have you on a small-ish (but fast) boat with just a handful of divers, typically 4, 6 or 8 divers. The major resorts use ops that pack 'em in on large boats. The boutique ops will take really good care of you, you will see why they have such loyal fans.

And bugs! I usually don't get affected by them too much- but will come prepared...

Personally, bugs have never been the slightest annoyance for me on Coz (I do whine about them elsewhere). Still, it's the tropics, so be smart and bring some bug dope just in case. Of course, you can buy pretty much anything you need locally (except perhaps exotic and very specific tech gear).

(more below...)
 
Tulum.. Hmmm- only reason we are thinking of going there is cause I love the idea of some beach time... yet I know I will not stay on the beach there- as everything is super pricey-

Here's the Trouble with Tulum: There is only one place in all of Mexico where you can see two iconic things in the same picture - ruins of a Mayan temple, and the stunningly blue turquoise waters of the Caribbean. You've seen that picture. Everyone's seen that picture. It's the #1 marketing image of the country. That's Tulum. Guess what? Everyone want to go there, and they do. Lots of cruise ships throughout the Yucatan stop nearby. I'd guess the majority of the passengers pick that for their "day in Mexico" experience. And the millions of others who are not on a cruise ship also go there, because it's within day-trip striking distance of Cancun and every other mass resort (and near the less crass, smaller resort areas). Can't blame them, it's pretty. But aside from the 30 tour buses you'll see parked there and the hundreds of sweltering day-trippers all jockeying for a selfie in that singular spot where if you stand just right you an see temple+beach, you may notice that 1) the ruins themselves are pretty small and unimpressive (not at all in the same league as others), and 2) the beach is pretty small (and often crowded). Tulum was a really magical place 30+ years ago. Now, it is a commodity that you have to share with an awful lot of strangers. That doesn't mean you shouldn't go, but I certainly wouldn't make it one of the centerpieces of my trip and do calibrate your expectations. Be there early or late to mitigate the crowds, and be prepared for a bit of crass commercialism as you run the gauntlet between the parking lot and selfie-centro. There are many, many much better ruins - they just don't sit near a sliver of Caribbean beachfront. Location, location, location...

Wondering if I need to let go of my idea of a few days beach vacation? Unless we go south to Mahahual....-

Beach time? That's easy. Mahahual is way far away from pretty much everything, and I think it would be a major mistake on a trip with limited time to go there if you just want a little beach time. Playa del Carmen is on a really beautiful beach (it's just become too popular and too developed for my tastes, plenty of others are quite happy there). You will be going there when you take the ferry to the mainland. There are beach towns, beach resorts, beach hotels, and just plain beaches all along the coast. Pretty much the whole Yucatan coast is a nice beach. And don't forget - you will get some beach time while on Cozumel (many dive ops spend your surface interval between dives on a fairly nice little beach). If you want to spend all day on a broad swath of sand, then you will need to pick a place for that. Beaches near Tulum (not the beach right at the ruins, south of there) are nice. Trouble is, other people are there (sorry, you're 30 years late), and mostly you're trading away a day playing Indiana Jones or other options...for me, I usually get enough of a beach fix on Cozumel between/after dives. It's not Tahiti but it's pretty nice.

can't go in May- have family visiting- and it is nice and springtime here..even April is a little late for us to go- but don't want to go at Easter, and I have a work commitment til 22nd of March..

I wouldn't worry about the timing, unless you're going in hurricane season. People here grouse about winds and the occasional "norte". Yes, the nortes are real, and they can and do shut down most diving when they hit, but they don't happen all the time and when they do, usually the diving is only closed for a day - yet another reason to plan more than just a couple days diving. If you get unlucky maybe you miss a day. In rare/extreme cases maybe 2 days, and 3 is not unprecedented. But I've never missed a day of diving there because of weather. It's no different from anywhere: a storm can impact your plans. I don't go during hurricane season but others love that time. For me, living in the same climate as you, Cozumel and Yucatan are an ideal destination anytime from December through May (coincidentally exactly when we have The Big Gray Drip at home).

@nwflyboy I think you get what we are looking for- and thanks for the confirmation that I don't need to worry about the driftdiving.. In Hawaii we did have surge and sometimes currents- but not drift diving.. I can be a chicken sometimes (yet I love to dive). We have 2 weeks, part of why we chose Yucatan is the non stop flight from Victoria, it's easy to get too- and don't have a schedule- so can definitely take more time on Cozumel.... and DO want to explore the Yucatan... Any favourite gems you have... beaches, or small towns.. Not sure we will make Palenque.. a little more driving than we like.. but will look at it... but very open to exploring within the Yucatan and off the tourist trail- staying in smaller places and hitting ruins at other times)...

Palenque is far - you need to be pretty dedicated and drive like crazy to include that on a short trip. There are two obvious combos to do: the northern one includes Chichen Itza and Uxmal (both 5-star sites), maybe Merida, maybe the Puuc ruins (google "Ruta Puuc"), also scattered around the northen Yucatan some lesser ruins, caves, colonial towns, other islands (Isla Mujeres, Isla Holbox) - but avoid Cancun itself (nice beach, but the epitome of mass tourism). The "southern" bunch could include Tulum, Coba, maybe Bacalar, Chicanna, Rio Bec, and if you can manage the drive, Calakmul (one of the largest ruined cities in the region, largely still overgrown, with most structures just barely explored...and few if any other tourists, at least when I've been there). It's also possible to combine both of these groups in a long looping drive around the peninsula...but there's way too much to see all these places so you will need to pick, choose and prioritize. Too much good stuff - it's a good problem to have.

Tip: Don't book your flights until you figure out your land-based plans. If you can fly nonstop to CZM, great, but many of us use Cancun's airport instead since there are many more flight options (often cheaper). See the "bag drag" threads here - it's a time-honored practice, well-documented, and is easy. If you are doing a land-based part of your trip, then fly into CZM (or to CUN, then ferry to Coz), dive your week on the island, ferry to Play del Carmen, drive around and explore the Yucatan, then fly home out of CUN at the end. Makes for an awesome trip.

OK, that's more than enough for now. My fresh new passport just arrived in today's mail, and the UPS guy just delivered a new dive computer so I must play with my new toy before I head for Mexico in a few weeks...
 
Thanks again everyone so much-
So much to think about- :) And thankful I posted here- lots of great info- and It feels like Cozumel is pretty chill- if we stay off the main drag... Will look at the budget and see what we can do for more diving- we don't have our own gear...

Any recs for dive shops (see spoiled me.. used to being on a max 6 person boat with 2 divemasters (sometimes it would just be me and my husband:).

And bugs! I usually don't get affected by them too much- but will come prepared...

Tulum.. Hmmm- only reason we are thinking of going there is cause I love the idea of some beach time... yet I know I will not stay on the beach there- as everything is super pricey-

Wondering if I need to let go of my idea of a few days beach vacation? Unless we go south to Mahahual....

@sefuchs can't go in May- have family visiting- and it is nice and springtime here..even April is a little late for us to go- but don't want to go at Easter, and I have a work commitment til 22nd of March..

@mikeycanuk Thanks for the info on the airport car rental scam:) and the Akumal Cenote

@nwflyboy I think you get what we are looking for- and thanks for the confirmation that I don't need to worry about the driftdiving.. In Hawaii we did have surge and sometimes currents- but not drift diving.. I can be a chicken sometimes (yet I love to dive). We have 2 weeks, part of why we chose Yucatan is the non stop flight from Victoria, it's easy to get too- and don't have a schedule- so can definitely take more time on Cozumel.... and DO want to explore the Yucatan... Any favourite gems you have... beaches, or small towns.. Not sure we will make Palenque.. a little more driving than we like.. but will look at it... but very open to exploring within the Yucatan and off the tourist trail- staying in smaller places and hitting ruins at other times)..

Thank you all again so much ! You really have and are so helpful!

Have you heard of Paamul? It's a different little place just south of Playa del Carmen. It's an RV park but there's a hotel, a dive shop and a restaurant. Nicest hotel room I've ever stayed in for $80/night (several years ago), and that's not including the beach at your doorstep if you're on the ground floor. Most of the RV's have palapas built over them, so they're like houses with an RV inside. Mostly ex-pats. Restaurant is killer, but closes early. Diving is super laid back, basically one assured dive per day in the morning, weather permitting, and maybe one in the after noon if there are enough to dive. 60feet/60 minutes. Pretty flat, but nice enough diving. The morning boat would have 15 or so divers and all but three of us lived there. Personally, I consider it a complete gem of a place. Ironshore, but lots of beach. If you do a google search for Paamul, you should see some pictures that would give you an idea. If you have questions, fire away.
 
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