sefuchs
Contributor
Yes the Yucatan has become a busy area. Very touristy and the AI resorts have taken over that entire area. Have to admit that they have beautiful grounds (and decent prices) with outstanding beaches, food, shows, booze, etc. but not remotely off the beaten path. The further south you go the more "off the beaten path" it gets - almost too much since there isn't much to do. I spent a week in the Sian ka'an reserve fly-fishing and a little diving. Very much off the beaten path, the diving was lousy and if it weren't for the fishing I would have gone stir crazy. Unless you just like to lay around doing nothing I wouldn't recommend more than a day or two in Xcalak. I have not found any decent diving on the Yucatan mainland (haven't been to Banco Chinchorro) except the Cenotes which you didn't have an interest in.
Coz is a pretty busy in town (San Miguel) and around the cruise ships but Coz is still pretty laid back and still "feels vacationy". You can get away from the cruisers by going a few blocks back into town. We like staying just south of town, it is kinda off the beaten path but still close to town, wouldn't recommend going way south or staying at an AI in Coz. You can get fantastic condos for reasonable prices, we like Las Uvas (www.villalasuvas.com) but there are many others depending on your budget and wishes.
As far as diving, I can just about guarantee you will regret limiting your diving to 2 days. I've dove Kona & Maui a few times and they are okay but doesn't even compare to Coz. Two days in Coz is kind of just a teaser to the wide variety of dives in Coz. You won't see as many turtles or reef sharks as Hawaii but the wide variety of underwater topology and sea life is amazing. IMHO Coz has the best diving in the Caribbean, you'd need to head to Indo-Pacific to get any better.
I should also mention that Coz does not have the big massive beaches as the Yacatan mainland unless you go to the east side of the island. You can find places on the west side with okay beaches but is a mix of iron shore & sand. The east side (wild side) is definitely worth visiting as a day trip (maybe even a couple times) but there isn't much there except beaches and bars. There is only one hotel (Ventanas Sal Mar - ventanasalmarcozumel.com/) on the east side and it is VERY cool, well worth spending a night or two - definitely meets your "off the beaten path" criteria.
Hope this helps. We are heading down next week for 3 weeks and my anxiety is getting the best of me so helps to talk about Coz!
Coz is a pretty busy in town (San Miguel) and around the cruise ships but Coz is still pretty laid back and still "feels vacationy". You can get away from the cruisers by going a few blocks back into town. We like staying just south of town, it is kinda off the beaten path but still close to town, wouldn't recommend going way south or staying at an AI in Coz. You can get fantastic condos for reasonable prices, we like Las Uvas (www.villalasuvas.com) but there are many others depending on your budget and wishes.
As far as diving, I can just about guarantee you will regret limiting your diving to 2 days. I've dove Kona & Maui a few times and they are okay but doesn't even compare to Coz. Two days in Coz is kind of just a teaser to the wide variety of dives in Coz. You won't see as many turtles or reef sharks as Hawaii but the wide variety of underwater topology and sea life is amazing. IMHO Coz has the best diving in the Caribbean, you'd need to head to Indo-Pacific to get any better.
I should also mention that Coz does not have the big massive beaches as the Yacatan mainland unless you go to the east side of the island. You can find places on the west side with okay beaches but is a mix of iron shore & sand. The east side (wild side) is definitely worth visiting as a day trip (maybe even a couple times) but there isn't much there except beaches and bars. There is only one hotel (Ventanas Sal Mar - ventanasalmarcozumel.com/) on the east side and it is VERY cool, well worth spending a night or two - definitely meets your "off the beaten path" criteria.
Hope this helps. We are heading down next week for 3 weeks and my anxiety is getting the best of me so helps to talk about Coz!