xcalak or cozumel- diving?

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Yes the Yucatan has become a busy area. Very touristy and the AI resorts have taken over that entire area. Have to admit that they have beautiful grounds (and decent prices) with outstanding beaches, food, shows, booze, etc. but not remotely off the beaten path. The further south you go the more "off the beaten path" it gets - almost too much since there isn't much to do. I spent a week in the Sian ka'an reserve fly-fishing and a little diving. Very much off the beaten path, the diving was lousy and if it weren't for the fishing I would have gone stir crazy. Unless you just like to lay around doing nothing I wouldn't recommend more than a day or two in Xcalak. I have not found any decent diving on the Yucatan mainland (haven't been to Banco Chinchorro) except the Cenotes which you didn't have an interest in.

Coz is a pretty busy in town (San Miguel) and around the cruise ships but Coz is still pretty laid back and still "feels vacationy". You can get away from the cruisers by going a few blocks back into town. We like staying just south of town, it is kinda off the beaten path but still close to town, wouldn't recommend going way south or staying at an AI in Coz. You can get fantastic condos for reasonable prices, we like Las Uvas (www.villalasuvas.com) but there are many others depending on your budget and wishes.

As far as diving, I can just about guarantee you will regret limiting your diving to 2 days. I've dove Kona & Maui a few times and they are okay but doesn't even compare to Coz. Two days in Coz is kind of just a teaser to the wide variety of dives in Coz. You won't see as many turtles or reef sharks as Hawaii but the wide variety of underwater topology and sea life is amazing. IMHO Coz has the best diving in the Caribbean, you'd need to head to Indo-Pacific to get any better.

I should also mention that Coz does not have the big massive beaches as the Yacatan mainland unless you go to the east side of the island. You can find places on the west side with okay beaches but is a mix of iron shore & sand. The east side (wild side) is definitely worth visiting as a day trip (maybe even a couple times) but there isn't much there except beaches and bars. There is only one hotel (Ventanas Sal Mar - ventanasalmarcozumel.com/) on the east side and it is VERY cool, well worth spending a night or two - definitely meets your "off the beaten path" criteria.

Hope this helps. We are heading down next week for 3 weeks and my anxiety is getting the best of me so helps to talk about Coz!
 
We went mid-June, a lot. Until I figured out that 2 thirds of the time it was really windy, unpleasantly so.

We used to go down to the Akumal area a lot when our son was younger and snorkel in Akumal bay. However we really noticed how much the bay went downhill, simply too many people. There was a change to block off a lot of outside visitors and blowback from the locals after we stopped going so I can't comment past 2010.

Is Easyway still around? Our last rental was with them. I don't suppose they offer a cervesa to go anymore?? lol

As gopbroek said, it's now Coz, year after year. We've stayed all over, but avoid the AI's and you'll be fine
 
We went mid-June, a lot. Until I figured out that 2 thirds of the time it was really windy, unpleasantly so.

We used to go down to the Akumal area a lot when our son was younger and snorkel in Akumal bay. However we really noticed how much the bay went downhill, simply too many people. There was a change to block off a lot of outside visitors and blowback from the locals after we stopped going so I can't comment past 2010.

Is Easyway still around? Our last rental was with them. I don't suppose they offer a cervesa to go anymore?? lol

As gopbroek said, it's now Coz, year after year. We've stayed all over, but avoid the AI's and you'll be fine
Agree on Akumal, went over the year before last and my wife and I were disappointed with how comercialzed it had gotten.Way to many busses from Cancun on the hundred dollar 'swim with the turttles' tours. I used Easyway out of Playa but alas no cerversa for the road (it was 8AM), first time out of Cancun they gave me a free cervesa as I filled out paperwork, I found it helped calm me for the drive.
 
Everyone is so helpful! Thank you so much! I really appreciate it- and now it's making me excited (I have been a little unsure because of the "tourist" factor, the ai resorts- the packages- But this all sounds great. We don't have an unlimited budget.. but we also aren't doing it on the super cheap, will rent a car if needed, we want to be comfy, and have fun- Just when I look at some of the prices for the beach in Tulum its crazy (we will probably stay in town centre there). So if we are able to be flexible in our dates- we could end up doing more diving than 2 days- Lots to think about ....
Ok a few more questions

We are thinking of going April maybe 7-21, are winds ok then? Might go a week earlier or later...

Does anyone know at that time of year- if you can book ahead for Cozumel- then just book places in Tulum, Valldolid etc.. when you are ready to go?

I have never drift dived before- so a little nervous- and excited too.

@sefuchs do you rent a car on Cozumel to get to the east side? or the south end? I will check out the condo's you share too- Thank You! And I am very excited to dive in the Carribean. Did my open water in snowy, freezing British Columbia waters (I know we have great diving here- but I just can't get in the cold) and then Hawaii- so excited for warmer temps, more colour and just different scenery (I do love Hawaii- but I know there's much better out there). I wish we had 3 weeks to go (I do, but my husband doesn't.) I wish I was going sooner than April too :)

Has anyone tried Air BnB's?

@mikeycanuk and @gopbroek - will check out easy way. I know we will want to rent a car on the mainland for sure. I want to go to the cenotes (Just not dive in them- I get a little boxed in, in closed spaces, rather swim than dive:) Also want to see some Mayan ruins!

So many questions! Ahh!

Thank you all!
 
Yes we rent a car in Coz at ISIS - www.islacozumel.net/services/isis. Margarita runs the place and is a great gal who can help you out if you run into an issue. Having a local who will help you means a ton in Mexico, especially in Coz. We like the older cars - feels more that Mexico! Yes have had good luck with Air BnB/VRBO. Here is a good Coz only site for condos - cozumelvillas.com/

We've been there a couple times in April and the weather was perfect with little winds. It is an end to the "high" season so less busy, generally fewer cruise ships. If you want to save a few bucks you could slide your trip into May when many of the hotels drop their price. Weather starts to get kinda hot then but still very nice.

You probably notice the high bias for Cozumel verses the mainland on this site. We started going to the Yucatan mainland many years back but now it's all about Coz. We spend 3-6 weeks a yr in Coz and really don't have much interest in the Yucatan. Generally it we only go over there when newbies join us on our trip to show them some of the sights (and of course to dive a Cenote). Don't get me wrong, the Yucatan is a great place to visit if you haven't been there but it is generally kind of hectic, expensive and touristy. Coz is a different world, much more laid back and less expensive.
 
Great Thank you so much @sefuchs

It's our first time to the Yucatan (well i went 22 years ago)- so we definitely want to explore a little.. I would love to spend time on a beautiful beach but am definitely not into the AI's and Tulum is just..... crazy?! So we will see where the flow takes us- will get lots of water time on Cozumel:)

I so appreciate all the insight and help!
 
I like Xcalak and will go back someday. The diving is not as good as Coz and there isn't much there as far as restaurants, stores, or anything else. Generally not good snorkeling as it is very shallow a long way out.

In Coz you don't have to spend much time near the cruise ship effluent. San Miguel is a nice place to be.
 
Xcalak sounds like an interesting adventure with enough DEET, but I'll never forget this horror story. The hit shouldn't have happened, except those do at times. Getting emergency oxygen was challenging, medical care in 2013 was non-existent, and the ride back to PDC would have made me think about dying as preferable. Maybe things are a lot different now, but still - a worst case scenario to consider. See Mike's DCS And Some Lessons Learned

I have to wonder if activating my PLB would be a solution in such a case?
 
We went mid-June, a lot. Until I figured out that 2 thirds of the time it was really windy, unpleasantly so.

We used to go down to the Akumal area a lot when our son was younger and snorkel in Akumal bay. However we really noticed how much the bay went downhill, simply too many people. There was a change to block off a lot of outside visitors and blowback from the locals after we stopped going so I can't comment past 2010.

Is Easyway still around? Our last rental was with them. I don't suppose they offer a cervesa to go anymore?? lol

As gopbroek said, it's now Coz, year after year. We've stayed all over, but avoid the AI's and you'll be fine

Yep, EasyWay is still outside the airport but pick you up there. I have rented from them many times. Great people and good cars at a good price. Last trip to Xcalak/Mahahual I had to cut my 3 week trip short due to Hurricane Harvey in Houston, where my daughter lives. The EasyWay folks were very understanding and sympathetic, and refunded me the difference. BYOB now :)
 
Oh I forgot the car rental games with the blue shirts at the Cancun airport. Never tell them who you are renting with (they will ask, over and over) because if you do “your” company rep will suddenly show up! I figured something was off when we wouldn’t tell me my name and then went to look at my luggage tag. A quick call to easyway led me to quote some rude words to the imposter. The Easyway rep showed soon after.

Not sure Tulum is worth it IMO. Do check out the cenote south of Akumal. It’s a nice cool dip in the jungle. What’s really cool is you cross the road to the ocean after your swim, eat lunch and have a cervesa while looking at the ocean. 20’-30’ out is where the cenote exits out. It’s a bright emerald green spot in a turquoise blue ocean. Very cool.
 
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