Why not attach spool to DSMB before the dive?

[Mr. Sunday]

Have a loop of bungee on the reel. it holds teh line. No need for fancy wrapping on a double ender etc. The double ender, is just use to hold the reel/spool to my kit. My reel/spool would not unwind if the double ender came detached. Even in current

that sounds like a good idea. I do that for some of my DSMBs. Got a pick though? What do you do with the bungee after you deploy?

That's how I have been doing mine for many years. Works very well for me. I have yet to have it come undone or any issues whatsoever.

Makes for a very quick and easy deployment.

 

[wetb4igetinthewater]

That's how I have been doing mine for many years. Works very well for me. I have yet to have it come undone or any issues whatsoever.

Makes for a very quick and easy deployment.


View attachment 753688View attachment 753689

I like it! Never seen anything like that.

 

[Pearlman]

View attachment 753591

What’s the little metal clasp at the end for?

That's how I have been doing mine for many years. Works very well for me. I have yet to have it come undone or any issues whatsoever.

Makes for a very quick and easy deployment.


View attachment 753688

This arrangement is more useful for a full spool where you can’t insert the end of the line into the holes I think? I mean why bother unclasping one more bungee cord when you pull at the thread tucked in to the hole…

 

[BlueTrin]

What’s the little metal clasp at the end for?

If you go on the Amazon page and scroll to the second picture it says that it is a swivel.

 

[Dan]

If you go on the Amazon page and scroll to the second picture it says that it is a swivel.

Yes. If you use your fingers to wrap the line back on the spool, the swivel will keep the line from twisting.

 

[Dan]

PS. Is that a swivel? Stainless steel?

I missed replying this question earlier. Sorry. Yes, it’s a swivel, to keep the line from twisting & knotting as you wrap it back on to the spool.

 

[Pearlman]

Get yourself the bottom, self sealing with over pressure purge valve DSMB like mine (see the pictures below).

Now I am embarrassed because I knew mine was self sealing and even inflated it with an octo in the past but after a year of not diving I imagined it was a completely sealed one until I saw the pic in your post and started having doubts. So I just probed the bottom (of the DSMB) with the demeanour and determination of a proctologist and sure enough the centre of the bottom (Ahem!) flap has a hole to let air in… not normally visible with a quick peek… (running to a nearby college to get my medical degree cert now).

In any case I am now diving new gear with a long hose and necklaced backup reg. Keeping in mind that I need my left hand free to operate the deflate button on my Wing in case I start shooting up with the DSMB due to an entanglement and even if I ignore that - holding the spool+DSMB in left hand (with finger-2 and thumb in spool) with long hose primary in right purging into the bottom of the DSMB (somehow kept open pointing downwards) and then achieving a quick release at the slightest tug looks impossible… nah! I prefer the two breath approach of blowing into the valve orally once to straighten out the DSMB (spool and DSMB valve in right hand) and then a second long blow before release (transfer spool to left finger+thumb before this) with all the leisurely demeanour of a cigar smoker seated at a nightclub table. No chance of an abrupt change in buoyancy here…

 

[wetb4igetinthewater]

Keeping in mind that I need my left hand free to operate the deflate button on my Wing in case I start shooting up with the DSMB due to an entanglement and even if I ignore that - holding the spool+DSMB in left hand (with finger-2 and thumb in spool) with long hose primary in right purging into the bottom of the DSMB (somehow kept open pointing downwards) and then achieving a quick release at the slightest tug looks impossible… nah!

Line cutter is better if you get entangled with your line. But judging by the following

I prefer the two breath approach of blowing into the valve orally once to straighten out the DSMB and then a second long blow before release with all the leisurely demeanour of a cigar smoker seated at a nightclub table. No chance of an abrupt change in buoyancy here…

I don't expect you to ever have that issue.

 

[CosbySweater]

Now I am embarrassed because I knew mine was self sealing and even inflated it with an octo in the past but after a year of not diving I imagined it was a completely sealed one until I saw the pic in your post and started having doubts. So I just probed the bottom (of the DSMB) with the demeanour and determination of a proctologist and sure enough the centre of the bottom (Ahem!) flap has a hole to let air in… not normally visible with a quick peek… (running to a nearby college to get my medical degree cert now).

In any case I am now diving new gear with a long hose and necklaced backup reg. Keeping in mind that I need my left hand free to operate the deflate button on my Wing in case I start shooting up with the DSMB due to an entanglement and even if I ignore that - holding the spool+DSMB in left hand (with finger-2 and thumb in spool) with long hose primary in right purging into the bottom of the DSMB (somehow kept open pointing downwards) and then achieving a quick release at the slightest tug looks impossible… nah! I prefer the two breath approach of blowing into the valve orally once to straighten out the DSMB (spool and DSMB valve in right hand) and then a second long blow before release (transfer spool to left finger+thumb before this) with all the leisurely demeanour of a cigar smoker seated at a nightclub table. No chance of an abrupt change in buoyancy here…

An alternative approach (and my preferred method) - shove your BCD exhaust valve in the bottom opening of your DSMB (your medical degree might come in handy here) and dump the air from your BCD in to your DSMB. The net change in air volume is zero so your buoyancy doesn't change and your reg never leaves your mouth. Once you let go of your DSMB, add air back in to your BCD to maintain neutral buoyancy.

Note: This method really only works at depths >60 feet as you only need to fill your DSMB ~1/3 of the way full at that depth to have it full at the surface. I usually have more than enough air in my BCD at that depth to accomplish this. I'm a big fan of deploying at depth in open water as its far easier to control your ascent with a line than if you were free ascending.

 

[boriss]

An alternative approach (and my preferred method) - shove your BCD exhaust valve in the bottom opening of your DSMB (your medical degree might come in handy here) and dump the air from your BCD in to your DSMB. The net change in air volume is zero so your buoyancy doesn't change and your reg never leaves your mouth. Once you let go of your DSMB, add air back in to your BCD to maintain neutral buoyancy.

Note: This method really only works at depths >60 feet as you only need to fill your DSMB ~1/3 of the way full at that depth to have it full at the surface. I usually have more than enough air in my BCD at that depth to accomplish this. I'm a big fan of deploying at depth in open water as its far easier to control your ascent with a line than if you were free ascending.

I've been taught this method, but I find it increases complexity for no benefit. We don't hold on to our DSMB, once we have enough gas in it we let it go. Now you're being pulled up while your gear is pulling you down and you have to reestablish buoyancy and trim. It's just a terrible method IMO.

I like to keep things simple where that's possible. Prepare the DSMB for deployment and then use second stage exhaust gas, another reg or LPI to inflate the DSMB. It only takes a couple of breaths at depth and the buoyancy barely has time to change. Additionally, my trim doesn't suffer and I'm not vertical, kicking up, while trying to establish buoyancy again. So not only is it easier, faster and more convenient, but you'll look much cooler doing it