What primary light for Adv Wreck? Eos? Explorer? Other?

[PfcAJ]

I would consider the EOS just because I imagine its tough to get bulbs in Asia should you break the 21w bulb (which is not likely). If travel weight is a concern, a 4.5Ah battery with the EOS is a pretty good choice. The two scout light deal is a real steal, though. I almost bought another light because of it!

 

[Tortuga68]

Thanks everyone. I am really leaning towards the Eos but I just don't want to be disappointed with it and find myself buying a 21w HID later on. Sigh

This is why you are killing lights. A 4.5Ah battery is too small for ~21W lights...

I am not killing lights. The Dive Rong LED 700 is powered by 8 disposable AA batteries that are supposed to have a burn time of 12 hours before tapering:

SCUBA Diving Equipment for Technical, Sidemount, Rebreather, Wreck and Cave Diving: Dive Rite, Inc - Product Catalog - LED 700 Corded Flashlight

 

[Gombessa]

Thanks everyone. I am really leaning towards the Eos but I just don't want to be disappointed with it and find myself buying a 21w HID later on. Sigh

Honestly, if you're worried about that, you should probably just get the HID and be done with it. Diving in bright tropical waters, I find even a 21w HID set to the tightest spot difficult to see. The EOS is quite bright, but without the tight spot of an HID I wonder if the contrast would be significantly lower and affect viewability. I suspect either would be brighter than the LED700 though.

I am not killing lights. The Dive Rong LED 700 is powered by 8 disposable AA batteries that are supposed to have a burn time of 12 hours before tapering:

He just means a 4.5AH battery would be a really shortsighted solution with a 21w HID. Mine lasts just under 2 hours, which typically isn't enough for two dives. And if you're on a liveaboard or plan more than 2 dives a day? Ugh. It's a pain changing batteries between dives, and as rjack mentioned, frequently discharging a battery near its limit will certainly affect its life. I'll take a larger canister with a 9-13AH battery any day.

 

[Tortuga68]

I would also expect either to be better than the LED700 - it's quite functional at short range but not very tight. So I don't want to wind up with a higher-powered version of the same thing

Re: being hard to find bulbs, if I go with an HID light I'll be purchasing a field repair kit (or at least a spare bulb)

Is there any advantage to the E/O cord if you only have one battery, one light head and don't use a heated drysuit undergarment? Does it reduce the risk of flooding or make them easier to pack?

 

[Gilldiver]

A word of caution on any battery packs that use Lithium Batteries, at work we are already getting information that there will be a hard crack down on lithium batteries as they have been implicated in the crash of a UPS 747 freighter aircraft in the UAE. Hard as in not allowed on any passenger flight with the exception of lap top battery packs.

Expect the standard confusion with any large battery pack being questioned or taken out of your luggage by TSA and the airlines.

UPS Freighter-Crash Probe Under Way in UAE After Two Are Killed - BusinessWeek
Lithium batteries involved in cockpit fire on UPS plane - Transportation - ArabianBusiness.com

This may drive the market away from the custom battery packs and toward the use of standard alkaline or NiMH replaceable/rechargeable batteries.

But to tell you the truth, I fly with enough chargers now that getting rid of one and going to AA or C cell lights like are used by SARTEK, I have the 6600C LED light, is a plus.

 

[HenrikBP]

I had a chance to compare the EOS to my MB-Sub; beam spread is comparable but the MB-Sub is *way* brighter. Just an anecdotal point of reference.

Henrik

 

[Tortuga68]

What model MB sub do you have?

 

[Michael Kazma]

Light Monkey 12w or 21w LED are the best lights I have ever owned

 

[Gombessa]

Is there any advantage to the E/O cord if you only have one battery, one light head and don't use a heated drysuit undergarment? Does it reduce the risk of flooding or make them easier to pack?

I have an E/O cord on mine, and only have one canister. To be honest, I hate it, primarily because it means it suffers from all the drawbacks and none of the benefits. When the E/O connection gets old, it becomes loose and you can lose the electrical contact to the battery, meaning your light flickers and goes out during the dive, potentially multiple times. Also, if you get any salt water into the connection, the leads will eventually corrode. I've had the cord sections replaced with brand new ones and they're still not perfect. I've resorted to electrical-taping the E/O connection so it won't come apart (but then it still makes for this slightly annoying lump in the cord that can get a bit caught when you stow the light cord under your harness).

I've tried a friend's light with separate E/O connection and it's rock solid, I could barely get the plug ends to fit together. I suspect this is the way it's supposed to be.

Still, since I don't have two cans, two lightheads or some kind of suit heater, the only reason I'm keeping the E/O intact is for potential resale value. If it cost the same, I'd replace mine with a regular cord in a heartbeat.

 

[ucfdiver]

I like E/O cords for video lights where they're mounted and you don't want to be tethered, but I don't see much value in them otherwise. For absolutely massive dives where a backup primary is taken, I see value, or if you own several batteries or lights.