Tore My Rix SA-6B Apart

[Gone for diving]

Plus if you dive your doubles and use half,
And you can just top them off, and doesn't cost 2 fills.

Unless you are going by the dive store regularly for some other reason, or they are open when going by, etc,

A compressor is much more convenient, and dont, waste time, driving there, hanging around till they are full, buying stuff you don't need while waiting, etc.

I definitely would not be diving as much if I didn't have a compressor....
And I would say the air I have pumped for me and my buddies has saved me money, I'll pump air if you bring your boat... it's a no brainer...

 

[lexvil]

Oh man.. I feel for you

Well if I can fill at my shop it's a 3 min drive (although it's not "great" diving). 60' quarry beats nothing I guess.

If it was easy anyone could do it. It makes for a long day, up at 0130, drive, dive about 3 hours and drive home. I’m a bit north of Yosemite in the sierra foothills.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

Plus if you dive your doubles and use half,
And you can just top them off, and doesn't cost 2 fills.

Unless you are going by the dive store regularly for some other reason, or they are open when going by, etc,

A compressor is much more convenient, and dont, waste time, driving there, hanging around till they are full, buying stuff you don't need while waiting, etc.

I definitely would not be diving as much if I didn't have a compressor....
And I would say the air I have pumped for me and my buddies has saved me money, I'll pump air if you bring your boat... it's a no brainer...

Couldn't agree more... now where do you find these "friends" with boats

If it was easy anyone could do it. It makes for a long day, up at 0130, drive, dive about 3 hours and drive home. I’m a bit north of Yosemite in the sierra foothills.

I feel your pain. When I dive NJ that is my day to a T. Pack the night before, up and out by 1:30am and usually back home between 4-6pm depending on how far out we go. I only do it about once a month and some of those get blown out.

 

[Gone for diving]

now where do you find these "friends" with boats

Actually it a customer of mine, that I took diving, he liked it so much we got him his own gear, I filled his tanks, and probably dove with me for 3-4years until he decided he wanted to dive down south, the he got certified,, a bit backwards, his kids like sking and stuff so he has a small bow rider, his kids dive now as well.


That's how I have a friend with a boat,
So moral of the story,
find someone with a boat and teach them how to dive,

There are a lot of people that would like to try diving, but would never do it unless they have the right opportunity,

and every now and then someone really wants to dive

 

[iain/hsm]

So falling down the rabbit hole more and more. I ordered all my parts. Was a little pricey @ $424.15 shipped from Rix. They really nailed me with 2 teflon o rings that "they" suggested for the plugs on both 2nd and 3rd stages. I figured how much could they be... well $20 / o ring. That's pretty salty

On the plus side they were nice enough to send me this pdf on rebuilding heads, which is awesome because up until this point absolutely no one anywhere had a breakdown of how to go about that. I'm sure I could figure it out, but always easier being able to "see" what's next without figuring it out myself. The manual says some stuff, but is very vague and has zero real pictures. The pdf lists tools and has great pictures. This is well worth the extra $40 I spent on 2 o rings, lol.

Attached it here.

I also ordered the SKF N 08 Lock Nuts and Washers that @iain/hsm recommended. That was another $22.47 shipped. So I'm @ $446.62, but as far as I know would be a ~ brand new compressor. This is way better then the $1000 I have been quoted in various locations for "just" the 3rd stage.

Rob.

I let you know the part number of the original vendor SKF N 08 for a reason
Mil Spec components can be very expensive when not required.
Especially when you can obtain a standard commercial version off the shelf and local.

Regarding these two "salty" O-rings the standard ring is a $2 part. The advice was good going for the Teflon variant and that's a $10 adder but it's the the Mil Spec QA you don't need that doubled it. Iain

 

[iain/hsm]

More. I guess there's a 5 pic limit.

I'll try and take some better ones today with the flash.View attachment 806096

On that 1st stage liner above a very very light glaze bust cross hatch pattern should suffice.
Check the edge lip at the head end for wear but to me on the photo it looks fine

Change the rusty bolt out for stainless on that motor bracket support bar.

Take off the central spring bearing retaining plate (2 bolts) take a look at the spring wear on the backside of the plate ( lower bottom of the photo)

 

[iain/hsm]

Awesome, thanks. Just to make it easier on people and for future viewers.

I also plan to take a bunch of pictures of the heads as I take them apart. I don't want to take the Reed valves out without having parts in hand to put each back together.

View attachment 806088

Again a very light glaze bust as the 1st stage but this time also run your finger over the point where the piston stops top dead centre can you feel a ridge of lip beyond that point. This shows any wear

A 3 point micrometer is the way to check it but the tool of choice is your finger tip. Iain

 

[iain/hsm]

This is the best picture I think I have. It reminds me of a helicopter, yeah?



View attachment 806126

From this photo check the thrust rider trapeze Blue spring for movement on hand rotation
Change the bolt on the counter balance weight for stainless put it back the same way and not upside down or you will be chasing the compressor around the room from vibration

Also check those cooling coils very very carefully to ensure they are not touching especially underneath and that U shaped short return off the 3rd stage inlet from the 2nd stage separator where if fits between the coils on the 2nd stage discharge side. Iain

 

[iain/hsm]

Anyone have any ideas how I can torque the SKF lock nuts?

One side is torqued to 100lb, the other side is 200lb. I'm pretty sure I have a spanner in the shop.. but not sure how I'd torque to spec. Obviously I don't have the special HSM tool, lol.



View attachment 806243View attachment 806244

Its pretty easy with that SKF Spanner part number (I posted) without a torque wrench
to get 100 ft lbs its spin up the nut until the first gap lines up with the washer tab
Flywheel pulley drive side.

On the swash plate bearing side fan side its the second clear tab your aiming for
and a tad more arm strength. say around a 50 kg lift. Iain

 

[iain/hsm]

This guy also just uploaded some videos a few weeks ago. A Rix but different model (same concept). Today is the 1st time I'm seeing these;

Sorry but the first 30 seconds of the 1st video was all wrong.
And that woman's voice on the second put me to sleep.

For a moment I thought I was is some Zen Guru ashram ******** vegan self help group with beads and open toe sandals contemplating my naval. Give me strength.