Tore My Rix SA-6B Apart

[-JD-]

Does that hold true regardless how far that 90 is?

I can see using the tool I linked to attach the spanner to the torque wrench, but it would probably be at least a few inches away.

That's some pretty cool science!

From the link:

If you place the crowfoot wrench at an angle 90-degrees to the torque wrench handle, the amount of torque you’re applying doesn’t change. You can set the torque wrench to the fastener’s torque specification and continue to use the torque wrench normally. This is because the center of the fastener remains on the same plane as it was before you added the crowfoot wrench, meaning that the overall effective length of the torque wrench stays the same.

As far as I know, as long a the angle is 90*, the offset is irrelevant as long as you apply the force in-plane & perpendicular to the torque wrench handle.


(At least) I couldn't see your tool link

 

[rob.mwpropane]

From the link:

As far as I know, as long a the angle is 90*, the offset is irrelevant as long as you apply the force in-plane & perpendicular to the torque wrench handle.


(At least) I couldn't see your tool link

Whoops... I didn't see your link, just the picture, lol

Thanks!

 

[Geo7]

This guy also just uploaded some videos a few weeks ago. A Rix but different model (same concept). Today is the 1st time I'm seeing these;

Brilliant! These go a long way...

 

[rob.mwpropane]

If I throw metal parts into the US cleaner, what would be the best solution to use?

Reed valves, heads, etc.

Or maybe forget that and just hot soapy water and a nylon brush?

 

[-JD-]

If I throw metal parts into the US cleaner, what would be the best solution to use?

Reed valves, heads, etc.

Or maybe forget that and just hot soapy water and a nylon brush?

Simple Green Extreme is the current (Simple Green) one rated for O2 cleaning: Info - Extreme Simple Green Documentation
[ETA: I had bought this previously because it is rated for safely cleaning aluminum parts. Convenient is is now for regs (and compressor). The "Crystal" will henceforth be used for general cleaning.]


This type of device might be the ticket to adapting beefier-handled wrenches (hook spanner, open end, etc.) for torque fairly cost-effectively:

K Tool International 49403 Universal Automotive Wrench Extender Adaptor with 1/2 Inch or 21mm Hex Drive for Garages, Repair Shops, and DIY, Drop Forged Body with Heat Treatment, Extendable, Black

I like that it surrounds the handle so should minimize an chance to pop/twist off. Slide it up the handle as close as possible and with the torque wrench set at 90* it will be pushing it into the fastener.

There are tons of similar ones starting at about $10 on Amazon. This one looks to be well made and is supposedly made in Tiawan

 

[rob.mwpropane]

Simple Green Extreme is the current (Simple Green) one rated for O2 cleaning: Info - Extreme Simple Green Documentation
[ETA: I had bought this previously because it is rated for safely cleaning aluminum parts. Convenient is is now for regs (and compressor). The "Crystal" will henceforth be used for general cleaning.]


This type of device might be the ticket to adapting beefier-handled wrenches (hook spanner, open end, etc.) for torque fairly cost-effectively:

K Tool International 49403 Universal Automotive Wrench Extender Adaptor with 1/2 Inch or 21mm Hex Drive for Garages, Repair Shops, and DIY, Drop Forged Body with Heat Treatment, Extendable, Black

I like that it surrounds the handle so should minimize an chance to pop/twist off. Slide it up the handle as close as possible and with the torque wrench set at 90* it will be pushing it into the fastener.

There are tons of similar ones starting at about $10 on Amazon. This one looks to be well made and is supposedly made in Tiawan

I have simple green crystal for cleaning, never had an issue using it for O2 cleaning. I don't think the Rix needs to be O2 clean as it would really only ever get 40% ran through it. But I do think you're right, since I have SG might as well use that.

That tool looks great, even if I have to weld something to it to get to the belt side locking nut I wont care much about it for $10!

Aslo, I asked the folks at Rix what parts get loctite and he was very nice to make me a list. I have started to go through my manual and circle (the number) that points to all the parts that need loctite. I'll upload my copy when I'm done.

Interestingly, part #53, the large bolts that connect the rods to the swash plate were not on that list. I even asked and he came back with "it's not required as per their manual". I think I'll still put a drop on there though. It would cause catastrophic damage if that came loose. Mine did have evidence of loctite when I took it apart, and I think Iain has mentioned using a drop on those threads.

 

[Gone for diving]

Often low grade lock tite is used,
to keep water and rust out, because it seals the threads. Not because it will come loose....

 

[rob.mwpropane]

Often low grade lock tite is used,
to keep water and rust out, because it seals the threads. Not because it will come loose....

Well they should have loc-tited my bearing lock nuts

 

[Gone for diving]

I like to use anerobic sealant on threads, it acts like a lock nut, and is not very strong.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

I like to use anerobic sealant on threads, it acts like a lock nut, and is not very strong.

My bolts had just a drop of red loctite on the bottom of the threads. They were only mildly hard to break loose. I'm not sure exactly where my unit came from, but it had all the signs of military surplus.