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Hey Pete, you may have a fuel problem you have not yet considered.
Ethanol gasoline disolves the resin used in the old fiberglass fuel tanks. Once you start getting resin your your filter the next step is to install a new aluminum tank.
You might have an aluminum tank or you might have a huge problem looming. Also any old varnish, grime and dirt in the tank will end up in your fuel filter or carb.
Before you fuel up the first time you might find a source of Ethanol Free gasoline, and pay the premium price.
Ethanol also polishes the inside of the tank and you will catch all the varnish dirt and grime in your fuel filter, or your carb.
I have a friend going through this right now. He is cutting out the deck to pull the fiberglasss fuel tank.
 
I haven't posted here for a bit, but things are progressing along. I have pulled all the old wiring, cut and installed the rear deck supports. It looks FAR better. I also had to replace the starter. When I went to crank it, I heard nary a peep. I made sure that I was getting power and determined that the entire starter was toast. I also removed and drained the rear gas tank, which is a portable plastic one. I also replaced the big fuel/water separator spin on filter as well as the inline filter near the carb. I switched the gear selector switch to the back tank and primed the pump to be sure she worked.

What a PIG! The starter was way heavy and really filled the space leaving very little room with which to work. Two bolt, non staggered CW rotation (reverse) starter. I brought the pig over to NAPA where they seem to have a plethora of boat parts. They had a new replacement starter that was a gear reduction. It was half the weight and was far easier to install. The engine cranks easily now. I took the opportunity earlier in the week to wet the inside of the cylinders with Marvel Mystery Fluid and install new spark plugs. The old ones look fairly new, so they will become spares.

I'll be sure to post some before/after pics of the rear deck supports. The prior owner had the old rotted ones and gave them to me. I used them as templates to make new ones out of 3/4" starboard. I also got some vinyl boards from Home Depot: 1X2 and 1X8. I cut them to provide stops to keep the Starboard in place. It looks great! Now the back deck is rock solid, however, I think I will need to add some forward support as well. I think I can toss the old pieces now. I am using stainless steel square drive screws with a bit of 5200 to hold things together.

I also replaced the battery selector switch and the battery cables. I have temporarily mounted the fuse panel to the back of the starboard deck support with screws that are simply too long. I will be ordering the right size (3/4") so I can make the mounting permanent and tight. I threaded the 8 gauge wire from the fuse panel to the stern where I will be tying it into the Battery Selector switch by tying it and a string to the last remaining wire. The string is a bit over twice the length of the run with a permanent loop in the center and will be used to pull wires back and forth. I am anxious to get this baby started so my next move will be to install the ignition switch. There is a lot of clutter on the starboard side of the engine. The fuel vent from the carb is routed through an old filter from when the engine had a mechanical fuel pump. It ends right on top of the starter and its possible that this is what killed the old starter. I will be re-routing this to the exhaust vent and installing a bilge fan to adequately ventilate the engine compartment. Its that or sending it back to the fuel tank. I am not sure which idea is the best. Please feel free to comment.
 
carb vent into the tank means no fuel fumes in the engine compartment
... but I know nothing about boats, and very little aboot cars ether :wink:
 
Cant wait to see the finished product
 
Cant wait to see the finished product
I can't wait to start what I finished! :D Launching will be fun.

I dove today so I had almost no time to do anything. I pulled the starting and ignition wire, terminated them and connected the ignition switch. I even ran the wire to the fuse box and installed my first ATO Fuse. Yay, it cranks with the key!!! I hope to install the coil tomorrow and actually start the beast. I do see a fuel leak (stain), so I want to check that out and replace the gas lines before I do.
 
Pete, I suggest you read through this before making any decisions on how to do something that may end up being against USCG requirements. A lot of old boats are full of jury rigged fixes that are not exactly how they should be.

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I have already read through most of it and paid extra attention to the electrical part. However, I just re-read through the fuel and ventilation portion, and don't see a real answer to my question. I like the idea of returning it to the fuel tank though. That just sounds safer. I already had a blower ordered. It has a 3" tube already installed to the rear vent.
 
Pete you say it had a mechanical fuel pump. I think what you are calling the carb vent is actually where the line from the mechanical fuel pump dumps fuel into the carb in the event the pump diaphragm springs a leak to prevent fuel leaking into the bilge. Just plug it off completely. If it is a marine carb the carb vent on the fuel bowl vents into the carb not externally.

Also if it was converted to an electric pump it needs an oil pressure switch wired into the pump circuit to shut the pump down if the engine stops and the ignition switch is still on.
 
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I agree , a blower for the engine compartment is always a good idea, whether required or not .. lots of flammable liquids, oil, gas ... even the coolant is flammable under the right conditions :shocked2:
 
That makes sense. The oil pressue cut off is there as well and wired in. I guess I should just cap the bowl vent then?
Pete you say it had a mechanical fuel pump. I think what you are calling the carb vent is actually where the line from the mechanical fuel pump dumps fuel into the carb in the event the pump diaphragm springs a leak to prevent fuel leaking into the bilge. Just plug it off completely. If it is a marine carb the carb vent on the fuel bowl vents into the carb not externally.

Also if it was converted to an electric pump it needs an oil pressure switch wired into the pump circuit to shut the pump down if the engine stops and the ignition switch is still on.
 

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