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This is a marine pump. Notice the hose barb (Fuel/Vapor Tube) on top of the pump. That is where the hose is connected and routed to the carb on the other end. If the diaphragm leaks, fuel will go to the carburetor. Some pumps have two diaphragms with the hose barb in between. Just put a cap on it.
I went from mechanical to electric and capped it.
I also put a momentary toggle switch in the fuel pump circuit that bypasses the pressure switch so I can run the pump to fill the carb bowl if it hasn't been run for a while. That way I don't have to run the starter waiting for the pump to fill the fuel bowl.

Holley Performance Products Big Block Chevy 130+ GPH 712-454-13
 
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I like it Capn! I will use a push button switch for that. I just got my Tach... its a Teleflex White, and I have a Problem: the tach won't fit into the cool retro panel!!! The more I look at the dash area, the more I think that I need to start with a blank slate. Maybe I could make one out of 1/4" Starboard? I like the white as it blends in with the rest of the boat.
 
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I found a really cool sight for custom fabricating a dash panel: Front Panel Expresss
 
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Definitely need some more pictures!!!!!!!!!!
 
Here is my current punch list. The green text items are DONE.

PunchList:

  • Install & connect lever set.
  • Realign throttle cable holder on carburetor.
  • Vacuum Debris DONE!
  • Modify Battery compartment and install Deep cycle battery.
  • Install hold down strap on starting battery.
  • Move Electric Fuel Pump.
  • Plug Carburetor Vent.
  • Hook up coil.
  • Install Alternator charging wire.
  • Run tach wire (should be on UPS).
  • Terminate and hook up low oil pressure and alt lights in the engine compartment (wires already pulled).
  • Terminate Front Compartment Power Feed and mount Battery Switch.
  • Install Blower.
  • Remove 1 Qt of oil. & start engine.
  • Install both bilge pumps. One auto and one on demand. I have to drill another vent through the hull for this.
  • Run wires & install switches for both pumps and blower.
  • Finish wiring and testing tilt relays and switch.
  • Mount Bow and stern navigation lights (LED).
  • Run navigation light wires.
  • Finish install of VHF.
  • Make sure the VHF antennae will raise.
  • Attach flag pulley, line and cleat on VHF antennae.
  • Install speakers and finish install of stereo.
  • Install water protector for stereo.
  • Install/wire horn and button. Attach whistle to dash.
  • Buy & install depth sounder for dash.
  • Install SO shift cable and test.
  • Install baffles (engine compartment)
  • Finish the transfer of ownership.
  • Put new ID on boat.
 
Update: The boat was supposed to be launched today. The entire punch list, save the depth sounder, has been accomplished. This has been good since I can't stay on the PC long since I had eye-lid surgery. Friday, I was going through the final tune up. I adjusted the float level in the carb, checked the duty cycle of the points (34%) and checked timing. It all looked great and the engine idled just fine, but I was getting a high speed miss and I started to hear a pervasive rattling sound. No, it wasn't rythmic or deep like a bearing noise. My guess it would be a water pump but it looked like a pain to get to through the front engine mount.

Checking the carb again, it had very little fuel. Checking the electric fuel pump, I found my culprit. It was barely putting out any gas. Fine for idle, but not adequate for higher speeds. I was getting a lean miss. I got another fuel pump and mounted it in the same place on the back of the engine block. I had already taken care to re-route the fuel line and the ground strap away from the intake water pump pulley. It was at this time that I checked the water pump pulley and saw that the alternator belt was inverted and running on top of the second belt that ran the intake pump. When I got a flashlight down to the harmonic balancer, I could see that it had started to separate and was the obvious reason why the belts were now way misaligned. Double crap!
P9240012.JPG


Separated Harmonic Balancer

P9240008.JPG


Starboard view of the engine.









The front engine mount had to come off, so I fashioned a hoist beam out of 2X6X10', a 2X4x60", an anchor chain and a come along.

P9240019.JPG


Engine Support Beam



This morning I spent about a half an hour to assemble the rest of the engine support, remove the front engine mount, remove the water pump (which was essentially frozen) and the harmonic balancer. I then put the front support back on with only two of the four bolts and removed the beam so I can use the engine cover to protect it from the elements. All this was during a light sprinkle. I am sure that the water pump was not only the noise I heard, but also the reason why the harmonic balancer bit the dust. The alternator and the other pump move freely and it was obvious that the one I took off was NOT a marine grade pump. Steel impeller instead of bronze like I am replacing it with. Here are some pics of the job:



P92500011.JPG


Front Engine Mount/Support removed

P92500021.JPG


You can see the bearing race coming apart

P9250005.JPG


Harmonic Balancer Puller (Snap On)

P9250008.JPG


The offending Harmonic Balancer and Water Pump



I got the water pump today but they are going to have to find the balancer. If anyone has a CLUE where to get one, I would be very happy! FWIW, everyone is saying that this has to be a 3.0 L because of the harmonic balancer. Its got to be the same pulley either way.
 
After some research, here is what I need:

OMC: 55045T
or
GMC: GM0382628E

I think a harmonic balancer from a 68 Nova II with an L4 2.5L 120 (151) engine will work as well, though the timing mark won't work. Nothing so far.
:(
 
She needs some cleaning, new paint on the floor (January), windshields and a harmonic balancer! Still, here are some before and current pics:​



NetDocsBoat-3.jpg


Before

P9240001.JPG


Now

NetDocsBoat-6.jpg


Before

P9240006.JPG


Now

NetDocsBoat-5.jpg


Before

P9240016.JPG


Now

 
I have had several 2.5's and they don't have a harmonic balancer just a hub to bolt the pulley to.
Have you tried the Chevy dealer parts department. I would think it is available if not in stock. New 2.5 long blocks were still available 5 years ago.
The balencer is listed here but it ain't cheap. If you have any boat salvage yards near you that might be your best bet.

https://www.mercruiserparts.com/Sho...=90&bdesc=CAMSHAFT,+CRANKSHAFT+AND+WATER+PUMP
 

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