Review Seaskin Nova drysuit

[jstreetley]

I bought my Seaksin with QCS ovals a few years back and I've just upgraded to Rolock 90.
Can anyone (@rob.mwpropane @lexvil?) tell me the spec of the gloves they use with the Rolock system?

I bought black latex marigolds 1.6mm, the standard Kubi glove. I think it's too thin as when I try to detach the glove, the glove spins inside the glove ring, rather than turning the glove ring to unlock the bayonet. I'm thinking it's designed for thicker gloves. Anyone able to share what's working for them so I can reduce my trial and error approach?

 

[rob.mwpropane]

I bought my Seaksin with QCS ovals a few years back and I've just upgraded to Rolock 90.
Can anyone (@rob.mwpropane @lexvil?) tell me the spec of the gloves they use with the Rolock system?

I bought black latex marigolds 1.6mm, the standard Kubi glove. I think it's too thin as when I try to detach the glove, the glove spins inside the glove ring, rather than turning the glove ring to unlock the bayonet. I'm thinking it's designed for thicker gloves. Anyone able to share what's working for them so I can reduce my trial and error approach?

I use Showa 720's. Very cheap good glove. They're not too thick but thick enough that they won't spin. Sometimes it will spin the ring in the suit vs unlocking but I can always spin it back the other way.

Hope that helps. The 720's are mostly what people use. I know @lexvil likes to switch things up, but he's just playing around because of his scuba ADHD and the need to try different.

 

[lexvil]

I bought my Seaksin with QCS ovals a few years back and I've just upgraded to Rolock 90.
Can anyone (@rob.mwpropane @lexvil?) tell me the spec of the gloves they use with the Rolock system?

I bought black latex marigolds 1.6mm, the standard Kubi glove. I think it's too thin as when I try to detach the glove, the glove spins inside the glove ring, rather than turning the glove ring to unlock the bayonet. I'm thinking it's designed for thicker gloves. Anyone able to share what's working for them so I can reduce my trial and error approach?

I use Showa 3415 and or 620 ESD, because they are black. I find blue gloves offensive or maybe it’s just the people that use them

I really don’t like the blue 720 but only for the color otherwise they are excellent gloves and should be your first choice.

 

[Badger7]

I bought my Seaksin with QCS ovals a few years back and I've just upgraded to Rolock 90.
Can anyone (@rob.mwpropane @lexvil?) tell me the spec of the gloves they use with the Rolock system?

I bought black latex marigolds 1.6mm, the standard Kubi glove. I think it's too thin as when I try to detach the glove, the glove spins inside the glove ring, rather than turning the glove ring to unlock the bayonet. I'm thinking it's designed for thicker gloves. Anyone able to share what's working for them so I can reduce my trial and error approach?

CS720 gloves are great as mentioned above. I've switched to Showa CS710 gloves. I find the thin grey nitrile outer layer is a big grippier and I find that helpful for things like palming a spool. Not gonna lie, I also prefer the grey to the fully smurf CS720, but that's secondary. They also happen to fit my hand shape and size really well compared to others I've tried. Just enough stretch to be tactile when pulled over the appropriate size liner.

SHOWA Gloves CS710 · Chemical Protection Gloves

Prioritize comfort and wearer safety with the CS710 chemical-resistant gloves. A double-dipped nitrile coating offers robust durability, while the seamless liner and natural latex-free composition ensure comfort during long periods of wear. Enhanced grip from the foamed nitrile palm coating...

www.showagroup.com

They're only $5 each, so I'd suggest going with a CS720 or CS710, and picking up a few sizes and spares. Personally I wear a size 9 with thin xerotherm glove liners, a 10 with 2mm neoprene glove liners, and an 11 with really thick wool liners. As the seasons change and I'm changing out glove sizes, I just toss the old ones, and I've never had one rip or get a hole in around 30-40 dives on a pair. The light flocking inside both a CS720 and CS710 helps keep them mounted tight in the rings.

Use the blue glove mount ring, not the black one. I put a very thin layer of silicone grease around the outside wrist of the glove prior to mounting them to make it a little easier to make fine tune adjustments in length before I cut out the excess cuff.

When that cute little thimbleful of silicone grease runs out, I've found this to be a fine replacement for re-lubing the orings. Just don't use it anywhere near hoses or regs running 40%+ O2.
SuperLube

 

[rob.mwpropane]

CS720 gloves are great as mentioned above. I've switched to Showa CS710 gloves. I find the thin grey nitrile outer layer is a big grippier and I find that helpful for things like palming a spool. Not gonna lie, I also prefer the grey to the fully smurf CS720, but that's secondary. They also happen to fit my hand shape and size really well compared to others I've tried. Just enough stretch to be tactile when pulled over the appropriate size liner.

SHOWA Gloves CS710 · Chemical Protection Gloves

Prioritize comfort and wearer safety with the CS710 chemical-resistant gloves. A double-dipped nitrile coating offers robust durability, while the seamless liner and natural latex-free composition ensure comfort during long periods of wear. Enhanced grip from the foamed nitrile palm coating...

www.showagroup.com

They're only $5 each, so I'd suggest going with a CS720 or CS710, and picking up a few sizes and spares. Personally I wear a size 9 with thin xerotherm glove liners, a 10 with 2mm neoprene glove liners, and an 11 with really thick wool liners. As the seasons change and I'm changing out glove sizes, I just toss the old ones, and I've never had one rip or get a hole in around 30-40 dives on a pair. The light flocking inside both a CS720 and CS710 helps keep them mounted tight in the rings.

Use the blue glove mount ring, not the black one. I put a very thin layer of silicone grease around the outside wrist of the glove prior to mounting them to make it a little easier to make fine tune adjustments in length before I cut out the excess cuff.

When that cute little thimbleful of silicone grease runs out, I've found this to be a fine replacement for re-lubing the orings. Just don't use it anywhere near hoses or regs running 40%+ O2.
SuperLube

Do you find these are larger than the 720's? My one complaint (because I'm a man and don't care about color) is they're a little too small with a thick liner.

I use the same superlube on just about everything (except O2 stuff as noted). Zippers, seals, etc.

 

[Badger7]

Do you find these are larger than the 720's? My one complaint (because I'm a man and don't care about color) is they're a little too small with a thick liner.

I use the same superlube on just about everything (except O2 stuff as noted). Zippers, seals, etc.

The nitrile is just ever so slightly thicker, smoother and slightly grippier. The gloves themselves fit nearly identically. As near as I can tell, the 710 and 720 are the same gloves, with the 710 getting a smoother grippier foamed nitrile surface and the 720 getting a slightly more textured nonfoamed blue nitrile surface.

From the wrist back, the are absolutely identical, even the coating.

If only one or the other were available, I would be perfectly happy with either, but next time you're putting in an order to somewhere like Zoro, consider tossing in a pair of CS710 and see what you think. I like them. In both cases, I've found that going up in size doesn't make the fingers ridiculously longer, so going up a size to accommodate a thicker liner is a reasonable option. Some gloves add like a half inch to the fingers when you go up a size, and floppy fingertips are a peeve.

 

[Wants2divemore]

I use the same superlube on just about everything (except O2 stuff as noted). Zippers, seals, etc.

Do you have the brass or plastic zipper? If plastic, do you use the superlube on that too (just putting a little on the dock, not coating the entire zipper like you do for a brass zipper)?

 

[rob.mwpropane]

The nitrile is just ever so slightly thicker, smoother and slightly grippier. The gloves themselves fit nearly identically. As near as I can tell, the 710 and 720 are the same gloves, with the 710 getting a smoother grippier foamed nitrile surface and the 720 getting a slightly more textured nonfoamed blue nitrile surface.

From the wrist back, the are absolutely identical, even the coating.

If only one or the other were available, I would be perfectly happy with either, but next time you're putting in an order to somewhere like Zoro, consider tossing in a pair of CS710 and see what you think. I like them. In both cases, I've found that going up in size doesn't make the fingers ridiculously longer, so going up a size to accommodate a thicker liner is a reasonable option. Some gloves add like a half inch to the fingers when you go up a size, and floppy fingertips are a peeve.

I'd give them a shot, I think I have like 8 pairs of 720's left, so it'll be a bit I wear XXL as it is, can't go any bigger.

Do you have the brass or plastic zipper? If plastic, do you use the superlube on that too (just putting a little on the dock, not coating the entire zipper like you do for a brass zipper)?

I should have specified, I have a plastic zip. I only use a dab at the docking end and even then I think I've done it maybe 4 times in 2 years. I should probably do it again soon, thanks for the reminder!

I use whatever zipper lube I have or cheap motel bar soap on brass. @Tracy was the one who came up with the soap, just giving credit where credit is due. It works great though.

 

[jstreetley]

I use Showa 720's. Very cheap good glove. They're not too thick but thick enough that they won't spin. Sometimes it will spin the ring in the suit vs unlocking but I can always spin it back the other way.

Hope that helps. The 720's are mostly what people use. I know @lexvil likes to switch things up, but he's just playing around because of his scuba ADHD and the need to try different.

Yeah, I should get a pair of those. If nothing else then for testing, even if I don't fancy going full smurf.

I use Showa 3415 and or 620 ESD, because they are black. I find blue gloves offensive or maybe it’s just the people that use them

I really don’t like the blue 720 but only for the color otherwise they are excellent gloves and should be your first choice.

Yep, my motivation for picking the black latex was the colour. I have a yellow/black suit, so adding blue gloves is quite a combination. But if works I'll go for it.
I didn't find 620 ESD online, I saw 620 in orange or a 660 ESD in black. I'm pretty tempted to try those as well. At least a few pairs of trial and error from a generic workwear company will still cost less than buying one pair of gloves from a scuba supplier.

CS720 gloves are great as mentioned above. I've switched to Showa CS710 gloves. I find the thin grey nitrile outer layer is a big grippier and I find that helpful for things like palming a spool. Not gonna lie, I also prefer the grey to the fully smurf CS720, but that's secondary. They also happen to fit my hand shape and size really well compared to others I've tried. Just enough stretch to be tactile when pulled over the appropriate size liner.

SHOWA Gloves CS710 · Chemical Protection Gloves

Prioritize comfort and wearer safety with the CS710 chemical-resistant gloves. A double-dipped nitrile coating offers robust durability, while the seamless liner and natural latex-free composition ensure comfort during long periods of wear. Enhanced grip from the foamed nitrile palm coating...

www.showagroup.com

These also sound like a good option, thanks.

 

[lexvil]

Yeah, I should get a pair of those. If nothing else then for testing, even if I don't fancy going full smurf.


Yep, my motivation for picking the black latex was the colour. I have a yellow/black suit, so adding blue gloves is quite a combination. But if works I'll go for it.
I didn't find 620 ESD online, I saw 620 in orange or a 660 ESD in black. I'm pretty tempted to try those as well. At least a few pairs of trial and error from a generic workwear company will still cost less than buying one pair of gloves from a scuba supplier.


These also sound like a good option, thanks.

Yes 660 ESD, zoro has good deals on gloves but you sometimes have to be clever with wording when searching the site.