Review Seaskin Nova drysuit

[MaxAir]

So wait, just to confirm you're saying the 4E Arctics are warmer than the 150s? the feel about the same in bulk to me so it's hard to tell.

Just catching up on this question... I have all 3 items, the SS 150 and 250, and the 4E Arctic. I usually start with the SS performance base layer then add one of those thermal layers.

The 150 & Arctic seem about the same warmth and fine for a single 46F dive when you start with near 100% dry underlayers. If doing multiple dives and you don't have the option to change out to fresh, dry underlayers then go with the 250 (and at least +3lbs extra weight).

Another point, the SS 3M Thinsulate seems to do better when damp than the 4E Arctic fleece which holds moisture but does not wick the wet away as well as the SS underlayers, hence you feel the cold more when the 4E Arctic is damp.

The one negative I have about the SS layers is the thin nylon outer shell - wishing that was something tougher and didn't crinkle/bunch up with creases and folds.

Due to the difference I'm finding in the wicking performance, I think the SS Thinsulate layers are a better overall choice, plus a whole lot cheaper than 4E Arctic.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

Just catching up on this question... I have all 3 items, the SS 150 and 250, and the 4E Arctic. I usually start with the SS performance base layer then add one of those thermal layers.

The 150 & Arctic seem about the same warmth and fine for a single 46F dive when you start with near 100% dry underlayers. If doing multiple dives and you don't have the option to change out to fresh, dry underlayers then go with the 250 (and at least +3lbs extra weight).

Another point, the SS 3M Thinsulate seems to do better when damp than the 4E Arctic fleece which holds moisture but does not wick the wet away as well as the SS underlayers, hence you feel the cold more when the 4E Arctic is damp.

The one negative I have about the SS layers is the thin nylon outer shell - wishing that was something tougher and didn't crinkle/bunch up with creases and folds.

Due to the difference I'm finding in the wicking performance, I think the SS Thinsulate layers are a better overall choice, plus a whole lot cheaper than 4E Arctic.

I disagree. I have 4E Halo 3D, a set of Arctics, and the SS 250. The Halo is the warmest. Both the 4E sets are more dense then the 250 and require a lot less air to manage. I leave my vent open all the way all the time, with the SS I reall can't do that. With the SS I need to manually trap air, with 4E it does it for me.

Thinsulate works, I know thicker thinsulate like the Weezle would be warmer then my Halo, but I don't think it's as comfortable to dive.

In order of warmth I would rank mine, Halo, SS 250, then Arctics. No matter what I wear, I always have a good wicking base layer. They're easier to wash the funk out vs the thermal layer and do a much better job of wicking anything.

 

[MaxAir]

I disagree. I have 4E Halo 3D, a set of Arctics, and the SS 250. The Halo is the warmest. Both the 4E sets are more dense then the 250 and require a lot less air to manage. I leave my vent open all the way all the time, with the SS I reall can't do that. With the SS I need to manually trap air, with 4E it does it for me.

Thinsulate works, I know thicker thinsulate like the Weezle would be warmer then my Halo, but I don't think it's as comfortable to dive.

In order of warmth I would rank mine, Halo, SS 250, then Arctics. No matter what I wear, I always have a good wicking base layer. They're easier to wash the funk out vs the thermal layer and do a much better job of wicking anything.

I guess you are disagreeing that the SS is a better option (ignoring that 4E is 2x, 3x, 4x the price). Your new points about density and air management are interesting, but then you agree the SS 250 is warmer than the 4E Arctic, which I equate to the SS 150. I did notice the 4E Arctics saturated easily with air (and moisture) but never found the air part a substantial diff. Also can't say I like my thermals trapping air that I can't easily vent, but to each his own preference.

What do you think of the Arctic performance when they are damp? I freeze.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

I guess you are disagreeing that the SS is a better option (ignoring that 4E is 2x, 3x, 4x the price). Your new points about density and air management are interesting, but then you agree the SS 250 is warmer than the 4E Arctic, which I equate to the SS 150. I did notice the 4E Arctics saturated easily with air (and moisture) but never found the air part a substantial diff. Also can't say I like my thermals trapping air that I can't easily vent, but to each his own preference.

What do you think of the Arctic performance when they are damp? I freeze.

But it does easily vent. Because it's dense it only holds what it needs to. I add air to prevent squeeze, but never close my valve. On the way up I just roll my shoulder a little and what needs to come out does.. nothing more. Thinsulate is harder to manage the bubble. I need to force air to stay trapped and manipulate the valve. With 4E I don't feel a bubble at all.

Try putting either set in a bag and compressing it as much as you can. The thinsulate can be compressed way smaller than the 4E stuff.

With either I wear a wicking base layer, fleece and something else, maybe polyester? They do an amazing job getting the moisture off of me. I've never done a dive with 4E / thinsulate right up against my skin. Plus after a few dives I can wash the base, I really try not to wash the thermal layers unless I piss in them (catheter issues) or they get a funk. It will break them down. And I don't "wash", I'll soak with some baby shampoo in a tub and manually roll it around some and then hang to dry. Both sets always feel damp with the bag effect after the dive, but I never feel it during the dive.

I am not saying SS is a bad option. I don't regret getting it, for the money it's awesome. Well worth having a backup M2M undersuit. But if you can find a used set of 4E stuff for a good price get it (or feel like splurging for new). The SS stuff is great to start off with, my personal opinion is just that 4E (or the like) are a better product. @lexvil uses waffle fleece, much less expensive and just about as nice as 4E. If I didn't find an almost new Halo 3D for cheap I would have gone that route too.

I agree the 250 is warmer than the 4E Arctics. I would love to get my hands on a Halo AR, supposed to be same thickness as the Arctics but just as warm as the 3D.

 

[MaxAir]

But it does easily vent. Because it's dense it only holds what it needs to. I add air to prevent squeeze, but never close my valve. On the way up I just roll my shoulder a little and what needs to come out does.. nothing more. Thinsulate is harder to manage the bubble. I need to force air to stay trapped and manipulate the valve. With 4E I don't feel a bubble at all.

Try putting either set in a bag and compressing it as much as you can. The thinsulate can be compressed way smaller than the 4E stuff.

With either I wear a wicking base layer, fleece and something else, maybe polyester? They do an amazing job getting the moisture off of me. I've never done a dive with 4E / thinsulate right up against my skin. Plus after a few dives I can wash the base, I really try not to wash the thermal layers unless I piss in them (catheter issues) or they get a funk. It will break them down. And I don't "wash", I'll soak with some baby shampoo in a tub and manually roll it around some and then hang to dry. Both sets always feel damp with the bag effect after the dive, but I never feel it during the dive.

I am not saying SS is a bad option. I don't regret getting it, for the money it's awesome. Well worth having a backup M2M undersuit. But if you can find a used set of 4E stuff for a good price get it (or feel like splurging for new). The SS stuff is great to start off with, my personal opinion is just that 4E (or the like) are a better product. @lexvil uses waffle fleece, much less expensive and just about as nice as 4E. If I didn't find an almost new Halo 3D for cheap I would have gone that route too.

I agree the 250 is warmer than the 4E Arctics. I would love to get my hands on a Halo AR, supposed to be same thickness as the Arctics but just as warm as the 3D.

Cool. Thanks for the feedback.

I wouldn't mind getting a Halo 3D or AR at all, but my wife would once she saw the bill :/ Perhaps I'll get lucky and find someone dumping their old ratty undies in a bin :O

 

[Litefoot]

With the SS I need to manually trap air, with 4E it does it for me.

Thinsulate is harder to manage the bubble. I need to force air to stay trapped and manipulate the valve. With 4E I don't feel a bubble at all.

@rob.mwpropane Would you mind explaining what you mean in these quotes? Assume you’re explaining to a total drysuit noob. Thanks!

 

[rob.mwpropane]

@rob.mwpropane Would you mind explaining what you mean in these quotes? Assume you’re explaining to a total drysuit noob. Thanks!

We're all noobs in one way or another.

Thinsulate will compress a lot under water, so much so that I find I need to manipulate my valve closed to trap the air, and then open again on the way back up. It creates a bubble. I can feel it slightly rolling around in the suit

With 4E I don't need to do that. It's a lot more dense and much harder to compress. I leave the valve open and inflate just enough to prevent squeeze. On the way back up it just vents any excess air. I don't have to touch a thing. It has more of a structure to it.

Does that make sense? The only way to really feel it would be to try both. 4E is kind of like cheating.. I don't have to pay attention to it and I find it easier to dive.

 

[Josh_Boon]

I just got my Nova in yesterday! I had the pee valve installed but there was no barb connector. Is this normal or do I need to purchase a barb.

 

[Litefoot]

Drysuit pvalve

I have a pvalve and it’s gonna be first time using it this weekend, I have the catheter but how to connect to the hose I insert the catheter over the tube or inside the pvavle tube?

scubaboard.com

Yes, you need to purchase the barb.
Edit: There is a valve (mentioned by @stuartv below) that comes with the Trigon, but it has a 3/8" barb on each end, which works on the catheter side. But the inside diameter of the Trigon tubing is 5/16" hence the suggestion to replace it with the McMaster-Carr 5/16" barb valve.

 

[Josh_Boon]

Drysuit pvalve

I have a pvalve and it’s gonna be first time using it this weekend, I have the catheter but how to connect to the hose I insert the catheter over the tube or inside the pvavle tube?

scubaboard.com

Yes, you need to purchase the barb.

Do you know what size?