Regulator dilemma (first buy, new to diving) [scubapro] MK 25/19 evo (BT) G260 cb/S620 ti

[lexvil]

This interweb thing of the Mark V, 10, 15, 20, 25 getting internal scratches is a bunch of baloney. Maybe if you dive in a quartz slurry and never rinse the thing out. The Mark 25 is a rugged beast of a regulator with unsurpassed flow rates, exceptional responsiveness, durability and reliability and the 25 Evo is cold water rated.

And sealed diaphragms, another interweb thing. The only exposed part in a so called unsealed diaphragm is the spring which is stainless steel. It is true that a fully sealed piston or diaphragm, can be more cold tolerant. And then to adjust IP the cap has to be removed. Good Lord.

I have diaphragm regulators but I am a piston guy. Too many little parts, I would not to agree they are superior to a piston first in performance or durability.

What other company uses 30 % glass fiber reinforced cases for their second stages? I am sure there are others but most are just molded ABS plastic. Scubapro innovates, everyone else copies, their 109 and G250 are the most copied second stages and their original Mark V and Mark 10 the most copied first stages, even Atomic is just a goo filled version of the Mark 10 piston.

OP, see what you did, now we are in a diaphragm vs piston and sealed vs unsealed wrestling match .

Except it isn’t baloney as I have seen it and worn one out, there are a lot of abrasives in the costal waters here, it’s a real thing but it doesn’t happen quickly but it does happen, boat divers/vacation warm water and fresh water divers may not have to worry about it.

 

[BoltSnap]

This interweb thing of the Mark V, 10, 15, 20, 25 getting internal scratches is a bunch of baloney. Maybe if you dive in a quartz slurry and never rinse the thing out. The Mark 25 is a rugged beast of a regulator with unsurpassed flow rates, exceptional responsiveness, durability and reliability and the 25 Evo is cold water rated.

And sealed diaphragms, another interweb thing. The only exposed part in a so called unsealed diaphragm is the spring which is stainless steel. It is true that a fully sealed piston or diaphragm, can be more cold tolerant. And then to adjust IP the cap has to be removed. Good Lord.

I have diaphragm regulators but I am a piston guy. Too many little parts, I would not a diaphragm is superior to a piston first in performance or durability.

What other company uses 30% glass fiber reinforced cases for their second stages? I am sure there are others but most are just molded ABS plastic. Scubapro innovates, everyone else copies, their 109 and G250 are the most copied second stages and their original Mark V and Mark 10 the most copied first stages, even Atomic is just a goo filled version of the Mark 10 piston. What other company has a record of supporting most products, not for just years but decades, of course to be supported for decades it has to be capable of lasting for decades.

OP, see what you did, now we are in a diaphragm vs piston and sealed vs unsealed wrestling match .

I have seen and worked on MANY gunk/crapp filled unsealed diaphragm first stages, many more than piston regulators with any issues and I worked on more piston regulators than diaphragm. The regulators with issues rate was higher for diaphragm first stages than piston. Heck, one of the MOST reliable regulators out there is the MK2 and it has been since 60's (I think).

 

[Mobulai]

Same same bit different

And after taking a regulator service tech course which involved disassembling and reassembling multiple different brands of regulators, I understood the advantages of diaphragm regulators. I now use Apeks US4, DS4, UST and DST mostly and some older Conshelf and Cousteau SEA first stages

I used to be a diaphragm only kinda diver; now I’m a big fan of SEALED pistons (mk10 mainly)
But that’s a bit out of scope here I guess

 

[Umuntu]

Same same bit different

I used to be a diaphragm only kinda diver; now I’m a big fan of SEALED pistons (mk10 mainly)
But that’s a bit out of scope here I guess

I also like and own a sealed Mk10 DIN, packed with silicone grease.

The silicone grease prevents the ingress of silt. The grease also keeps the piston shaft lubricated, which results in the regulator not honking like Darth Vader as the MK25 is prone to do.

I have my MK10 setup with a pair of restored 109BA second stages.

Picture was taken after servicing and updating the 109s to BA a few years ago.

 

[Mobulai]

I also like and own a sealed Mk10 DIN, packed with silicone grease.

The silicone grease prevents the ingress of silt. The grease also keeps the piston shaft lubricated, which results in the regulator not honking like Darth Vader as the MK25 is prone to do.

I have my MK10 setup with a pair of restored 109BA second stages.

View attachment 865790

Picture was taken after servicing and updating the 109s to BA a few years ago.

just beautiful
What are the (I’m guessing old hose section) black thingies at the bottom? Some sort of purge depression seat saver?

I was very fortune recently to come into possession of a few mk10 spec boots so I’ll be gooping mine soon

 

[Nemrod]

I have seen and worked on MANY gunk/crapp filled unsealed diaphragm first stages, many more than piston regulators with any issues and I worked on more piston regulators than diaphragm. The regulators with issues rate was higher for diaphragm first stages than piston. Heck, one of the MOST reliable regulators out there is the MK2 and it has been since 60's (I think).

I love the Mark 2 Evo, it really has no need for a service interval, it either works or it does not. I have seen them so corroded they are hardly recognizable and they still worked. Everyone should have a Mark 2 for backup for when their fancy whatever is having a bad day.

If you need a sealed regulator for your local conditions by all means use one. But you know I am going to stay with what I said . Which is, not everyone needs a sealed regulator, they are heavier, have added complication and usually need some disassembly for adjustment of IP and therefore run counter to my minimalist tendencies. But sealed it is when needed by local conditions, of course.

 

[Mobulai]

I love the Mark 2 Evo, it really has no need for a service interval, it either works or it does not. I have seen them so corroded they are hardly recognizable and they still worked. Everyone should have a Mark 2 for backup for when their fancy whatever is having a bad day.

If you need a sealed regulator for your local conditions by all means use one. But you know I am going to stay with what I said . Which is, not everyone needs a sealed regulator, they are heavier, have added complication and usually need some disassembly for adjustment of IP and therefore run counter to my minimalist tendencies. But sealed it is when needed by local conditions, of course.

The best „no time wasted“ save a dive kit
What’s a good 2nd stage equivalent? (For my 260 I use a 250, but that’s what I have ready at hand)

 

[USdiver1]

I used a sealed diaphragm Connie when I did harbor work, it was necessary due to the extreme conditions of sand, hull scrapings [barnacles and other debris] that formed a soup around me. I still prefer a sealed diaphragm for cold water diving in the Great Lakes, Gilboa quarry, etc. For recreational diving, give me a nice SP piston first stage: Mk 2, V, VII, 20, 25, and I'll do fine.

For second stages, give me [in metal] a Connie XII - 14, a Voit MR12II, a Mares Abyss or Metal Proton, SP R109 or BA; [in plastic] a Connie SE - SE2, a Mares Proton, or SP G250 and I'm happy.

 

[Nemrod]

The best „no time wasted“ save a dive kit
What’s a good 2nd stage equivalent? (For my 260 I use a 250, but that’s what I have ready at hand)

Why would you not use a G250 or 109/156 BA with a Mark 2 (and I particularly mean the newer Evo version)? As back up kit or primary kit? A Mark 2 Evo with G250s makes a nice set for sport diving, for extended excursions below 130 feet perhaps not ideal but otherwise, reliable and compact and travels easy.

This was being thrown away at a nearby center. I snagged it from the trash and cleaned it up, works good and pairs nicely with a Mark 2, super simple downstream second. However, unlike with the G250 and Mark 2, I can tell that the inhalation effort begins to creep upward as I near 1,000 or so psi. The balanced G250 just does not care.

 

[Mobulai]

Why would you not use a G250 or 109/156 BA with a Mark 2 (and I particularly mean the newer Evo version)? As back up kit or primary kit? A Mark 2 Evo with G250s makes a nice set for sport diving, for extended excursions below 130 feet perhaps not ideal but otherwise, reliable and compact and travels easy.

I meant as backup

My primaries are mk19Es with 260s (sidemount is my fav config); last month for a trip I replaced the 260s with a 250v and a 156CE that I recently got (I really wanted to dive them and test them), but I took one of the 260s in case the 156 or the 250v had issues
It was a quick and easy way instead of taking kits and tools since I didn’t have many diving days to risk

The 156 was so nice I considered permanently replacing my necklace with it, but saltwater makes it a bit of a hassle to keep clean
Probably I’ll have to play mix and match and rethink all the pairings but I think a g250 and an mk2 could be a a good backup to have in the bag