Reg Yoke Nut Socket Height?

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NorthWoodsDiver

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I'm gonna go cut down a 1" socket for removing the yoke on my scubapro 1st stage (mk2+) but I dont know how tall to make the final product. Can anyone throw me a measurement on what is best.

Thanks
 
I'm gonna go cut down a 1" socket for removing the yoke on my scubapro 1st stage (mk2+) but I dont know how tall to make the final product. Can anyone throw me a measurement on what is best.

Thanks


The easy answer is just cut away everything that does not fit.

I used a Craftsman 3/8th inch drive 1" socket and the first cut was to reduce its height to 7/8th inches. Comparing mine with a scubapro yoke nut, you could probably get away with taking it all the way down to 3/4th inches high so you do not have to be too accurate. And you could leave it at least 1/4th inch longer and it will still fit OK. So that height is not very critical. (BTW, I'm comparing this to a Mk20 yoke just to check,) I marked that cut with a piece of tape and had at it with the dremmel tool. Then you really do have to cut away some parts on the side that don't fit inside the A-clamp, both high on the socket shoulder and low where it engages the nut. I had some pictures if I can find them again.

It is in my photo gallery; http://www.scubaboard.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/34848/ppuser/3377

The socket on the left is the one I was measuring. The one on the right, I made with a 1/2 inch drive socket and then converted it to 1/4 inch drive for use on older Scubapro yokes.
 
scubatools wont accept paypal and I dont have credit cards or I would just do that.
 
Thanks for the pictures. I may have to get the grinder out and make one as well. The one I bought from Scubatools will barely fit over some of my SP yoke nuts - the newer ones.

Henrik
 
Just use a 10" or bigger adjustable wrench. I have changed SP and Zeagle to DIN with just the adjustable wrench.
 
I actually remove the yoke knob, close the jaws on a bench vise very carefully onto the yoke nut, and then turn the reg body to get it undone. One of these days I'll buy or make my own socket to do that.
 
The socket is not necessary for "undoing". That job has a couple alternatives. The socket is pretty much essential for "doing" if you want to adhere to the recommended torque specifications. I guess you could use a 1 foot long adjustable wrench and 22 pounds of lead.
 
Using the vise for removal is not a bad idea. Thanks. And awap got it with the torque specs.

Henrik
 
I ended up making the socket but while the lathe was running I put the reg in the good vise on the milling machine. that got the yoke off pretty simple and didn't hurt the brass. I marred it with a wrench when I tried that a while back. the vise is much more stable. The socket turned out pretty cool and has proved useful already on another reg project so I'm glad I have it.

took about an hour to do though as I wasn't familiar with the lathe or where anyone kept the tooling and it was an experiment so I would take 10 or 15 thousandths off the diameter and see if it fit and radius the end and see if it fit. I must have removed it from the lathe a dozen times but it fits perfect and it only cost $6 and some time.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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