Purchasing advice for used steel HP tanks

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rvojr

ScubaBoard Supporter
ScubaBoard Supporter
Messages
283
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143
Location
Williamstown, NJ
# of dives
200 - 499
There have been a few twinsets with bands and manifold of used HP100s (fewer 120s) listed in my area. What is the life of a scuba tank to pass hydro? They were born in the early 90s. Any advice as to what to look for or out for? I have noticed some misleading statements such as in hydro and VIP when after looking at some of the pics of them they are not. Some listed for anywhere between $320 to $600. I estimate the VIP, O2 clean, hydro and assembly will be about $125-150 for the set at LDS depending on whether they need tumbling. Any advice or experiences would be appreciated.
 
Ask to take the valve off and stick a light in to check for signs of corrosion (rust). Personally I would not pay more than ~$200 for a used steel cylinder that was out of hydro and vis.
 
I only buy pre-owned tanks. Steels hold their value, but I'll stumble across amazing deals on my targets (HP100s and HP130s, hot dip galv only) and I'll jump on them.

I have some going back to mid-90s... have always passed hydro. I rinse my tanks along with my gear and regularly service my valves. My cylinders are the oldest gear I still dive every week.

If they're not in Hydro, I will not pay full price, as I'm rolling the dice.

I've never had had a steel tank fail. AL tanks, yes.

YMMV

- K
 
Keep in mind that even a brand new hydro and VIP is NO guarantee of good divable condition.

I picked up a couple of HP100s at the SCUBA Flea Market from a charity org. When I brought them to my LDS for a fill, I got a "let's just take a peek" - some agressive tumbling later, now I have a nice set of HP100s. Net cost was OK in the end.
 
although the profile page reads like an alibaba ad and the technical data is a little on the mysterious side i think you need your own compressor to get them filled over here, but would be interested to know, i think luxfer is working on something similar but i don't know if its approved for diving just scba for now,
that doesnt change the dynamics that composite cylinders holds a large store of air/nitrox, buoyancy could be an issue with drysuit or heavy neoprene. depending on your mission purpose its unique properties may come in useful.
 
Thanks for the advice. I did not have a good feel for how often i would have to scrap the tanks from which it sounds not too often.
 
Keep in mind that even a brand new hydro and VIP is NO guarantee of good divable condition.

I picked up a couple of HP100s at the SCUBA Flea Market from a charity org. When I brought them to my LDS for a fill, I got a "let's just take a peek" - some agressive tumbling later, now I have a nice set of HP100s. Net cost was OK in the end.

Are you saying those HP100s had a brand new hydro and VIP, and yet your LDS "took a peek" anyway and found rust?
 
Thanks for the advice. I did not have a good feel for how often i would have to scrap the tanks from which it sounds not too often.
Take care of them and they'll last forever. I have steels from the 60s and 70s that I just got hydroed. Rinse the outside with fresh water after a salt water dive, make sure the boot doesn't trap water (if it does, pull it for the rinse and dry at the end of a dive day). If you suspect a wet fill, have the shop pop the valve and dry it well.
Respectfully
James
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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